Delaware Valley Tackle

Eddie puts it very well in his article found through the first link above.

Those are VERY small. About the size of a ball point pen tip. You can see the importance of schematics here and you didn't even open the reel up. I work over soft white drop cloth. Dropping something is inevitable and this helps keep stuff from bouncing away and makes them easier to see.

I assume you refer to the thumb screw on top of the crank side plate and not the thumbar that activates the clutch for casting. Also back off the cast control cap a little bit.

All good suggestions. Denatured alcohol works well on some of the more stubborn stains and is safe on finishes.

Tlaz, I'll be glad to help with whatever you need. My Clean/Lube service is $19.80 for members here ($22-10%). Shipping is postage only rounded to the next even dollar. The service includes stripping the reel to the frame, cleaning & degreasing, inspection of each part and finally lubrication and reassembly. OEM parts are extra and not subject to discount. Let me know if you have any questions. I can be reached here, by email, or by phone. Thanks Mike L

The main thing is to pick a rod that will load easily with the bait weight you're throwing. My two favorite skipping baits are a Senko and an Ika, both weightless. I usually throw them with a Med-light or med respectively. I use a side arm casting stroke so I can get away with a 7'er. In general though shorter rod is more accurate.

I still think this post should be pinned. It's dead-on, concise and one the most relevant posts ever.

Archie, I'll be glad to take care of your reel service needs. When sending reels be sure to include your BassResource.com screen name and get a 10% discount. Mike

The terms are relative and have no specific definition or standard, but the lighter the bite, the faster action I like.

As an alternative, soak in straight Perfect Solution or Simple Green and flush with hot runninf water. A dip in alcohol will dry it out quickly. Swab with light oil and reassemble. This works especially well on the press-fit ones that don't come out of the side plate.

Have you ever used an 'Easy out'? I'm not sure how small they come but that's all I got off the top of my head.

6'9" will work fine. As your budget allows you can try new things and see what works for YOU. There is right or wrong for the most part (within reason of course).

IPT is the best metric to gauge cranking power in either casting or spinning. On a spinning reel the rotor revolves around the spool and wraps the line so the larger the spool/rotor the more line you take up. In a baitcaster the spool is actually driven when you crank so the more revolutions per crank, the more the IPT (given constant spool dia.)

The most important step is after fishing in saltwater, rinse the reel thoroughly with clear running water and set it out to dry completely before storing and bump up your cleaning/lube intervals. Liberal greasing is a good idea but gobs aren't necessary. All the extra that doesn't contact any parts is just more to clean out later.

The A-rig won't "Tear them up" per say but something a little more solid and maybe lower IPT like a Winch, E5 or round reel would be a little easier on you and the reel.

Yup & I do the same for the press fit ones that don't come out.

FWIW I see more than a fair share of Smokes with loud, rough gears. The older TE's seemed more solid to me as well.

Spin times don't really mean anything other than it provides visual assurance that free-spool has been improved. Better free-spool allows for easier start up so casts take less physical force which improves accuracy. Casting distance is less of a concern as to putting more fish in the boat.

If I remember correctly St Croix has some travel rods built on nice blanks. You check their site.

Actually, the three brands you have are all built on the same platform with only model features to seperate them. I don't think there's one brand that stands out above the others across the board. Each has a model or two that shines in certain applications. If you're looking for a change Shiamno, Daiwa and maybe Quantum are your main choices.

Welcome, Felix has some good suggestions. I put mine in the Mohawk when the flow allows. The NY DEC site lists fishing spots by county I've gotten a few ideas from there. Good luck

I can testify to this as well. Tore up an old carpet and ended up laying down a new sub floor before proceeding.

7lbs of drag is more than you think, but a good drag with some power and smoothness along with good free-spool which makes pitching easier is what I'd be looking for. A metal frame for some rigidity is a good idea too. A tuned Curado B (or other workhorse reel) with a carbontex drag should have you covered. They can be had for $70 +/-.

A GOOD glass rod like the former Lamiglas SR705 is plenty sensitive enough for cranks, casts well and has plenty of back bone. The slower action really keeps them buttoned up.

X2 Couldn't agree more