Delaware Valley Tackle

What we mean by two piece spool shaft is that a pinion shaft is used as opposed to a solid shaft on the spool that extends thru the pinion. The broken shaft pieces are not matched up making it too long and pushing on the opposite side case. The spool tension should be backed way off when installing the side plates. The tension cap assembly consists of a thin rubber spacer, a thicker carbon spacer and a felt like washer. The parts are on the schematic you linked to. The pinion may be damaged too depending on long and severely it was grinding. Members here get a 10% discount on service if you'd like it gone thru.

The clutch assembly is sticking. Nothing a deep cleaning and lube shouldn't cure. The clutch dawg should be checked for wear as well. If it's grooved where the ratchet hits it, replace it. Let me know if I can help.

I build spinning rods regularly using much smaller guides and pass connections easily. The small ring on a micro wave stripper guide is an 8mm that will pass any connection you'd use bass fishing.

You made a good deal there. As far as line goes there are probably as many opinions as there are members here, lol. I use some backing and 15-20 lb. braid. Another good choice would be 6lb fluoro or co-poly. My third choice would a soft 8lb mono like Trilene XL

Check the line guide roller buy running a toothpick over it lightly to see it rolls easily. It won't hurt to check the bail wire to make sure it's clean and smooth as the line rides over it. Are you using a new bait style that's prone to cause twist? Has the line been changed recently?

The guide train is very important to casting performance on a spinning rod. Many custom builders including myself, use a formula known as 27x for guide placement and when executed correctly casting performance is very good. I've built a couple rods with the Micro Wave guide system and it has worked very well too, better in some cases. I'm not aware of any over the counter rods using the system yet. If you're interested in a Micro Wave rod or have more questions feel free to email or call.

2 things will cause a modern blank to fail: 1. Applying pressure that flexes the tip beyond 90* to the tip. 2. Compromising the integrity of the fibers with dents, dings, scratches etc. A hard hookset on a close fish is the one of the easiest ways to cause #1. The close the fish the lower the rod tip needs to be. I use braid too but don't lock the drag down. As for swinging fish, I think there is an ethical argument to be made against the practice as it relates to successful C&R. If you're going to lift with the rod keep it as parallel to the ground as possible to maximize the rod's deadlift capacity.

I second the motion for a professional repair. As ststed $10 should cover it. It's actually thread that binds the guide in place and epoxy finish that seals and protects the thread in 99% of cases.

X2.

If your sole motivation for getting into rod building is business oriented you might want to reconsider. It is a satisfying and fun craft that may or may not become profitable down the road should you choose to go that route. You don't need to spend a lot to get involved and easing into things will make it more likely that you'll stay involved IMO.

PM sent. This is straight forward build. I'll be happy to handle it and treat you right.

The chance of modern braid hurting a guide is minimal at best. Even if that weren't the case a $10 rod wouldn't be the answer.

The Mojo is a good over the counter rod. St Croix rods in general fish a little heavier than similarly labeled rods from other manufacturers. Handle one before buying to be sure it fits the bill.

"Worm" in this context refers to any T-rigged plastic. Technique specific labels are mostly marketing but may be used as a loose guide toward picking an appropriate rod for an application. Post as much detail as you can about any application and you'll get plenty of feedback and recommendations.

The right way is to strip it to the frame, no real way around it. Gander might be able to guide you to a schematic. Spinning reels are a little fussy to work on, if you get stuck we'll try to help and sending it in to be done is always an option ($19.80 plus shipping for members).

Take it along to a Sear HW etc. and go thru the bins to match it up.

Carbontex is the real deal and a true upgrade over that "Dartanium" material.

I'll build you something if you'd like. A quick search shows an MHX Salt/Musky blank rated for 5-16oz and is 9'. There are other options as well.

No problem, let me know if you need any help and don't hesitate to email or call for a quicker response.

Does the bail have some tension on it when closed? if so the spring is probably still good. Flipping the bail open compresses the spring which snaps it back over when tripped. Sounds like there might be some debris in the spring housing or hinges.

The level wind worm gear and pawl need to be replaced. They are a high wear item but if worn out the whole reel could probably use a cleaning. If you'd like to send it in be sure to include your forum screen name for a 10% discount.

The nut is tightened and loosened by turning the drag star. The drag star may not be seated correctly. take the handle, drag star and spring back off. Use the drag star to tighten the drag nut down. Then replace the spring and drag star making sure star is square with the flat sides of crank shaft and it is fully seated. Hold it down all the way while installing the handle and hold it all in place while attaching the handle with the nut.

This where the "Educated Thumb" term comes from. You have to very thumb pressure throughout the cast to get max performance. Braking systems help but won't eliminate backlash or over run by themselves.

Do your best to keep enthusiasm in check however. I've seen some real butcher jobs come through my shop as the result of over done attempts at tuning. It's actually delicate work especially on newer reels. Possible advantages depend on reel design too. Full floating spools like those found on Daiwa's, Revos etc. take the friction points out of play. Have fun, but proceed with caution.

In this case exchange the rod. For future reference, the correct way to do this repair is to replace the guide.