Delaware Valley Tackle

http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/REVO%20SX%20%2016%2000.pdf Parts 52-60 are thebcast control

Be sure that the spacers are all present inside the cast control cap and that they are not dimpled. I get a lot of reels through the shop missing those spacers.

Here's another vote for an inner sleeve. Match the taper as best you can to get a solid fit without forcing it and at least 3" inside. 4-6" is even better but probably not critical for a short extension.

Spinning and baitcasting tackle each have their place in bass fishing. Using all one or the other will catch fish, but the experience is enhanced by using the right tool for the job. I turn to spinning tackle for baits<1/2 oz and lines <10lb. I also prefer spinning when skipping baits.

Another advantage is that I can usually get away with a couple fewer guides on a spiral saving weight in the critical tip section.

I was just talking with a guy about this the other day. Amazon actually has Best Buy on the ropes. People go into the retail store, pick the brains of the sales staff, handle the product and then go home and buy on-line from a seller that has no building or inventory overhead. Sad, we all want the best deal but that's not alwys the lowest price.

According to Tom Kirkman, a highly regarded figure in rod building, most of the claims are fluff. Tubular construction is the strongest/weight design. The hex shape offers some strength advantages, but the price is added weight, lower sensitivity and slower recovery.

My Grandfather had an old telescoping fly rod that was hex shaped, there might be something to that. Their promotional material answered a lot of the questions that came to mind, but I'm not totally sold on all their answers. This is interesting. I'll ask around with some other rod builders to see If I can gather any input.

How to allocate your budget depends on the application. For jig, finesse rods etc. I'd scew the budget toward he rod and for cranks and other moving baits toward the reel. You get what you pay for up to a point, but there is a point of diminishing returns.

ABU and Pflueger are both Pure Fishing products. Parts availability should be acceptable for either.

The tip section of a two-piece fly rod blank can also make a nice ultra-light rod.

It's kinda hard to wrong with a brand name spinning reel at this price point. IMO Pflueger spinning reels are one of the best bang-for-your-buck wise.

MH/F or XF is fine for spinnerbait work. I also like the shorter length for casting to cover. One of mine is only 6'.

Get the most sensitive rod you can find within your budget. Balancing can be done after the fact if really necessary. You might consider a higher end, second hand rod.

IPT (Inches Per Turn) is a truer gauge of the reels rate of line return and is a function of ratio and spool size. If you don't know this spec on each reel, you might want to measure it. In general: 7.1:1 - Jigs, flipping and pitching 6.X:1 - plastics in more open water, spinner bait, general use 5.X:1 - deep cranks for sure and shallow & Med cranks just because you have them. I'm going with backing and braid on all my reels with leaders when abrasion and super clear water are concerns.

St Croix's website still advertises the Fuji Alconite Concept Guide system. There is some room for flexibility within that though. Just for fun, you can swap a reel from rod to rod and see which casts better or if there is a difference at all.

It's all subjective as already stated, but IMO the line rating is the least useful of all the rod markings except maybe for a surf rod. There is a standard beginning to gain acceptance called CCS (Common Cents System). It's still going to a while before manufacturers adopt it, if ever. In the meantime all you can do is handle rods in person and inquire here for other's experience.

You need to keep tension on the line. I do this by pinching the line with a rag wet with line conditioner. The trick is to grab the line far enough ahead of the levelwind or bail and not apply apply side pressure causing the line to load unevenly.

Most reels have either 2 or 3 spool support bearings and for upgrades all should be replaced at the same time. If replacing a worn bearing, it is not necessary to change the others. Most of the time I upgrade bearings when one or more are worn out and need replacing anyway.

The bearing count is much less important than quality bearings in the right places where casting is concerned. Keys to successful baitcasting: Decent Quality Reel Proper Adjustment A weight of 3/4 oz or better A rod matched to the weight you are throwing Smooth, Easy technique Practice You'll get plenty of good answers to specific questions regarding any of these points

IMO the Lamiglass SR705 is the perfect blend of action, sensitivity and backbone for deep cranking.

Labor: $28 Clean/Lube/Tune Parts: $6 Disc: -$3.40 (10%) Total: $30.60 plus shipping

THe Curado is a well built, durable reel. However, I have to caution you about using any reel as a winch. Fight the fish with your rod and use the reel to take up line. A 7.1:1 is at that.

That reel should respond well to tunning including a Carbontex Drag Kit.

How about a custom built this St Croix blank: 5S69MLXF-B 6'9" 1 6-10 1/8-1/2 ML X-FAST Drop Shot Bass .43 4 1.7 Tennessee Carbon Grip With the Stradic, 20lb braid, a 6' 8lb fluoro leader and tungsten weight.