Delaware Valley Tackle

x2 A M/F Spinning rig with a 2500 size reel is probably the most versatile for bass techniques.

That white over orange is tough. Depending on the contrast of the colors, sometimes I can get away with packing the thread really tight as I go and use CP. If that's not working, I tape off the blank and paint the area where the light color thread will go. What you have here looks good, the extra effort paid off. How do you like the CRB blanks?

I'd consider the rest of my arsenal and decide which new rig would best compliment what I have. A Med spinning rig is sufficient for lures<1/2 oz. If you want to be more technique specific, the ML will handle the lighter stuff better.

Naptha (lighter fluid) had been commonly recommended in the past and it works. Acetone is a better choice though as Jfrancho said.

A grip can be installed from the butt end but you have to compensate for the taper with an arbor of some type. Drywall mesh tape works well. Masking tape can used if you're carful to epoxy between arbors. If the taper not too fast, heavy thread will work. EVA grips are much easier to install from the back because they'll stretch. Another alternative is to spilt a couple cork rings and glue them in place to lengthen the existing grip and then sanding to match. It's all a lot of work for a rod you may not like after all though.

In general, a bearing will provide durability over a bushing. Other advantages that could be gained depend on the age and condition of the parts being replaced and of the reel overall. What is your goal of the Mods you're doing? I often find that the expectations of what results modifications/upgrades/tuning.. will yield is unrealistic. I'm by no means opposed to tuning and mods, but I could render a more thoughtful opinion if I know what your goal is. Are you dissatisfied with reels performance? Are you just looking for a fun project?

Unfortunately there are no industry standards for modulus rating, power, action, line or lure wt recommendations. Custom builders are using the CCS system to measure rod characteristics and build a database, mostly for fly rods though.

Keep in mind that modulus alone does not make a rod better than another. Also IM7 is a rating assigned by the manufacturer and there is no industry standard for what makes an IM6, IM7....

I haven't handled a finished rod, but they make some nice blanks. Alps guides are quality components as well. This is an ultra-light with a a lure rating of 1/32 - 1/8 oz. The 6'1" blank retails for $79. Add the burl seat and trim components to the Alps guides and it looks like decent value.

The Revo kit should be right. If you don't want to mess around measuring the stock ones, I'm sure someone with a Revo would take them off your hands.

x2 on each of J's points. Where you'd see real benefits swapping bearings for bushings is in the spool support, like on an old Ambassadeur. Oil should work fine on bushings if you're doing anything close to regular maintenance.

Priorities for reel purchase: 1. Budget 2. Quality Materials Components(Frame Material, gear material, Bearing quality...) 3. Engineering Design (Profile, ergonomics, drag, wt...) 4. Application suitability (Gear ratio, line capacity, IPT) 5. Style (color, trim...)

Congrats on a goal reached and a great year. Your fishing records are more meticulous and organized than some people's income tax records! lol

Congrats on a goal reached and a great year. Your fishing records are more meticulous and organized than some people's income tax records! lol

Congrats on a goal reached and a great year. Your fishing records are more meticulous and organized than some people's income tax records! lol

I like this kind of stuff. Back in the day, when we raced dirt bikes there was a "Vintage Class" dedicated to bikes 10yrs old or more. This allowed folks with a lower budget to enjoy the competition without feeling out-classed. There were a handful that could jump on a 20 yr old bike and give someone on a brand new one more than they could handle.

I like this kind of stuff. Back in the day, when we raced dirt bikes there was a "Vintage Class" dedicated to bikes 10yrs old or more. This allowed folks with a lower budget to enjoy the competition without feeling out-classed. There were a handful that could jump on a 20 yr old bike and give someone on a brand new one more than they could handle.

I like this kind of stuff. Back in the day, when we raced dirt bikes there was a "Vintage Class" dedicated to bikes 10yrs old or more. This allowed folks with a lower budget to enjoy the competition without feeling out-classed. There were a handful that could jump on a 20 yr old bike and give someone on a brand new one more than they could handle.

Seems like a lot of hoop jumping for a relatively small savings. As stated, you can probably find a better deal on a slightly used one. I'm not a fan of these expediter type programs. IMO they jack up the cost of the rod for everyone and are often abused. A good company stands by their product and makes things right when they mess up, but the manufacturer should not feel compelled to cover misuse and rough handling. I'd rather see an opt-in program with an up front cost for those interested, like an extended warranty deal.

I have one on my bench right now. They are smooth and well built. I am a fan of the vintage Curados and Chronarchs as well as ABU Ambassadeur.

Our price for a cleaning/inspection/lube is $16.20 for forum members. ($18-10%) The discount also applies to bearings and drag washers.

The Core is a nice reel and probably worthy of a pro service, but if you decide to DIY, clean all traces of old lube, grease gears and sliding parts, 1 drop of oil on each bearing. Make sure to have the schematic in front of you and put aside time to do the whole job. Good luck. Mike

What brand & model reel do you have? This type of thing is almost impossible to diagnose without seeing the reel.

If this is the reel/s first servicing, I would recommend that the reels be serviced by a professional, but if you must DIY. I would recommend that you have each reel/s schematic/s in front of you before you even start. The thumb screw on the top is to open and remove the palming side plate, and spool. Remove the crank assembly, then there are 2 screws on the outside of the crank side cover, and, one pan-head screw on the inside of the spool race that also holds the crank side plate on. Remove those 3 screws and the crank side cover will lift off. Good Luck & Tight Lines!! x2 There are a couple other Revo specific things to watch for. One is the pin that holds the levelwind gear in place. The second is that the spool shaft pin is one directional, force it in the wrong direction and plan on buying a spool.

I can see how someone who has not fished an expensive top of the line reel might draw a parallel. The Pro Q is a great value for the money, I think that's the real message.