Delaware Valley Tackle

Since all else is equal in this case you're right that you may gain a slight bit in casting distance with the longer rod. RW's right that is comes down to preference in this case. Consider the application and comfort of the two lengths and make your decision based on that.

I agree except for putting oil on drag parts. Use a grease specifically for drags. Shimano and Cal's for example.

If you'd like to send it in I'll diagnose the problem and we'll take it from there. http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/home PM, call or email any questions. Mike

When I lived up there I fished all those pools from St Johnsville down past Amsterdam. There is good shore fishing (at least there used to be) right at the Schoharie Crossing boat launch both upstream and out into the river. Cruise Rt 5 and 5s. There a lot of access points. Some are obvious, others less so.

In-line spinners, grubs & tubes and tiny crank baits.

Welcome Ezra! PM received. Stay in touch and enjoy the forum.

Welcome Manuel... Once you start catching bass, you'll be hooked!

Welcome Ed z..... Former Upstate NYer now in the Poconos. Enjoy the forum!

I've had great success building on MHX blanks. IMO they are by far one of the best values in blanks. They are sensitive and available with super fast actions.

Round reels get sold short too often IMO. There are several posts in another thread from folks that have great success with them, especially for cranks.

I just cleaned and lubed one of these for a customer and was impressed with the smoothness and free-spool and to a lesser extent the drag. IMO a good choice at the price point.

Let me know if I can help: http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/ Mike

The range of quality guide ring materials currently used in order of hardness: Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Nitride, Silicon Carbide, Gold Cermet (Gold Ceramic Metallic). The aluminum oxide can be used with braid, it's just not the best option available.

Beware of counterfeit bearings. We have many Boca bearings on sale right now. A super tune service starts at $28 plus parts and includes a complete cleaning/lube plus fine polishing of critical friction points and drag surfaces, replacement bearings and carbontex drag washers. BassResource.com members get 10% off.

Oil bearings and grease gears. Make sure all traces of old lube are removed and lube sparingly. Use only specialty drag grease on drag washers.

I use Smoooth Drag for drag parts. If you'd like to schedule a clean/lube I'll swap out the washers whole it's apart. The service costs $16.20 after our BassResource.com disc. I also extend a 10% discount on the parts. PM, email or visit http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/home if I can help. Mike

Med Power/Mod action in whatever brand you settle on will serve you well as a crankbait rod.

x2

I just noticed Direct TV has Versus turned back on.

We have 2 boys and 3 girls ages 20, 18, 15, 10 & 8 and each has a different level of interest. Many of our fondest memories are from days spent fishing, hiking, anything outdoors. One of the biggest challenges in keeping them involved, is that the hectic, blistrering speed of everyday life nowdays is the norm to them and they seem to have a hard time downshifting to enjoy any activity that isn't constant stimulation.

I have seen almost identical blistering of the finish on a Quantum reel, but the spool thing has me scratching my head too.

Powell office is in Novato, CA north of San Francisco. I don't know if they manufacture there.

The setup article is a must read. After that a couple tricks, Peel off about 2 casts worth of line and run a piece of electrical tape across the line on the spool. This will limit how deep any backlash can get. Secondly, resist the urge to muscle a cast, let the rod, reel and lure do the work.

Actually, it's just the opposite. Extreme high temps will cause light lube to thin and get flung off. Cold will make heavier oil thicken to the point of slowing the bearings too much. A middle of the road compromise will work in most situations. If want to lube often and adjust during changing seasons and conditions, use heavier oil in heat and lighter in cold.

The Kirkman book is very good. Flex Coat's "How we do it" is very, very basic but gets you started. Also, Kevin has a series or video tutorials on the Mud-Hole site that are ver good. I'd say check them out to see what's involved, then decide how deep you want to get and how fast. Enjoy & good luck. Mike