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Chigger Craw so far. I'm going to have to give the Paca Craw a shot because they're so popular and there are so many colors to choose from. I sure wish the Chigger came in junebug and watermelon/red. Kinda dropped the ball on that one, didn't they.

You know somebody has lucked out and caught fish with that POS.

In some ways yes. But then, since I'm switching over, most all of the Cumara Reactions, for instance, are doing double duty as crankbait/spinnerbait rods, as well as throwing buzzbaits and topwater baits. I just found it funny how I ended up with rods from so many manufacturers that are the same length/action but totally different. I'm happy to have found what fits and works now. It is interesting how that works. Like Francho, I'm partial to 7' MH/F rods. I have 3 of them and they are quite different in regards to action, power, and tip softness. One is a spinnerbait rod, one a worm rod, and one a Senko rod.

7:1, so you can quickly pick up slack and set the hook before the fish spits it.

I use #50 braid because it slices cleanly thru the weeds.

The drag isn't that big of a deal with a frogging reel. You're gonna want to tighten that sucker down all the way so it doesn't slip an inch. I used a $50 Daiwa Strikeforce 100SH 7:1 reel all year last year and had a blast. It's actually a surprising decent reel for the money, and it takes up 31" of line with each turn of the handle. I would recommend putting Reel Grips on the handles, though. They are hard plastic so they get a little slick. Really, all you're mostly doing is twitching the frog with the rod and taking up slack line with the reel. Frogs are heavy and easy to cast with a cheaper reel, too. This is THE one technique where a premium reel is not going to help you very much at all. I feel the rod is way more important than the reel when frog fishing. If the setup is for strictly frogging, save a few bucks on the reel, you'll end up dropping it on a nice rod or on frogs anyway. One the other hand, if the setup is not just for frogging, but also may be used for flipping, pitching, jigging, then disregard the earlier statement and go with a Curado or Revo. http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/gear/fishing/2009/06/daiwa-strikeforce-100sh-baitcasting-reel http://www.reelgrip.com/products-page/

Hey thats cool. Thats quite a haul for me or I'd hit that bargain selection up looking for crooked decals.

I'm trying not to let the technique specific thing get out of control. Sounds like you're well past that point. ;D JK

Wow. I'm surprised by the complaints. I really hope they aren't pushing defective line because I plan on buying more and spooling up soon. I never had the stuff break even a single time, and found it surprisingly resistant to cuts and abrasion from Northern teeth. I used the 8, 10, 12, and 15# tests on my worm, jig, tube, dropshot and pitching rods, both as main line and leaders. I didn't really like it on spinning reels, so I ended up doing braid and fluoro leader on all of them but one. The #15 makes for a fine line for pitching, jigging, and worms.

I'm with Ghoti. I HATE having the net in the boat, but it's better than having a thrashing fish drive a treble hook into you. A hook scraping against bone with every headshake is something you won't soon forget. :'(

Good kid.

There you go. Don't be afraid to tweak those brakes. I usually have 2 brakes on, but sometimes as many as all 6 if I'm casting hard into the wind. I think all reels come with the brakes off and drags loosened out of the box.

Thin, finesse worms like the Jackall Flick Shake or Zoom Trick Worm fished wacky style, weightless or on wacky jigs.

7' Med power, mod action. Plenty of quality used cranking sticks go on sale on fishing site flea markets. I'd keep an eye out for a couple months. Example: http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=41183

Quality stuff. Better than Vanish or the Cabelas stuff. Thats all I've used though.

You don't want a moderate action. A 7' MHM is cranking stick for big cranks. The length of a pitching rod would depend on your height and comfort level with long rods. I use rods between 7' 5" and 7' 11" for my pitching duties, but I'm 6' 4" tall. Also, you might want to try using some basic punctuation so your posts aren't so difficult to read. More people will offer opinions if you do. I've noticed this in many forums. :

I like a 7' MHF for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits, 3/8 oz and up. Casting 1/4 oz spinnerbaits and buzzbaits is easier and more accurate with a 6' 10" MHXF, but it doesn't handle the 1/2, 3/4, and 1 oz spinnerbaits as well as the 7' MHF because the XF tip is a little too soft for those big spinners. My recommendation would be the St. Croix Avid AVC70MHF. Thats what I use for 90% of my spinnerbait fishing.

Good upgrade. You won't be upset. The downside of a telescopic rod is a very slight loss of sensitivity becasue the blank is not continuous, but LTB is such a huge step up from a Mojo that I think you'll be very pleased with the sensitivity and remarkably improved balance. Although, if I had the choice between a telescopic rod and a 1 piece with identical actions, I would choose a 1 piece by a slim margin because I don't find the telescoping feature useful, my boat locker fits 8 footers. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1269435796/3#3

A buddy of mine says he found an IMX spinning rod with a missing tip guide for $5. I never seem to find the real scores.

WOW! Very impressive. That last one is my newest desktop.

Very true. Imagine how frightened people are about using public facilities but don't think twice about grabbing handrails, doorknobs and such.

Good riddance! The tank has been on E for years now.

Oil money... Quite a site though, makes Vegas look like Cleveland. Had to do it:

When the pressure is heavy, I go with down-sized shakyhead worming, like 4" worms on 1/16 oz heads.