Goose52

I use Yo-Zuri for nearly all my applications. I do have braid on a few rods, some nylon mono here and there, and flouro on an NRX rod, but by and large I use YZ for most casting and spinning setups. Why? Mostly cost vs. performance. YZ is not necessarily the ideal line for any particular application...but it's a cost effective and "good enough" line for most applications. Strong, good abrasion resistance, inexpensive. I just counted and right now I have line on 51 reels - 32 of those reels have Yo-Zuri. With that many reels ready to go, having a standardized, cost-effective "go-to" line, purchased in bulk, realizes considerable savings...

I have a 12ft canoe with a 38" beam (not conducive to high speed) with a 45lb TM - on a freshly charged battery it tops out at about 4.5 mph fully loaded - this reading from two different GPS units, one a car navigation unit in walking mode...and the other the GPS in my sonar. The length-to-beam ratio, hull shape, displacement, and probably a bunch of other factors come into play in determining speed. If you research the term "hull speed", you will come up with a bunch of nifty, and confusing, technical terms and details that are involved in determining potential max speeds. For instance, I hit my top speed at about 80% power on the TM - adding additional throttle does not increase the speed - this is the "hull speed" factor coming into play. Further increase in speed either requires going on plane to reduce displacement (and canoes are not planing hulls) or the addition of substantial additional power. Not sure I understand all the science and math involved...but since the biggest lake I fish is only about 2 miles long, 4.5 mph gets me around it nicely... Welcome to BR!

NIFTY tool. Looks like I have an order to place today... EDIT: Order placed !

I have 7' ML rods in both moderate and fast actions. I go to ML rods to accommodate ligher baits and lighter lines in mostly open water. ML-F is used for lighter t-rigs, really light jigs, light lipless cranks, light minnow baits, etc. ML-M is used for 1/4oz to 3/8oz lipped cranks, sometimes lipless cranks. I fish ML rods quite a bit; they're sorta like fish magnifiers - you get a bit more fight out of the fish... 5.3lb LMB / 7' ML-M / 3/8oz Yo-Zuri lipless crank:

I had similar thoughts when I took advantage of that offer. I bought two rods from the St. Croix Bargain Room and got a free Rage. At the time, I was thinking either that they were trying to generate some buzz on the Rage to generate additional sales...or were perhaps trying to clear inventory and using them as a loss leader. It's a year later now and Rage is still here so it looks like they weren't clearing them out... In any event, my free Rage rod was the 7'11" H-MF casting rod - a niche rod for me and I have very little time on the water with it so I have no informed opinion about long-term durability of this rod series.

Since these are "niche" reels that I won't be using a lot, I decided to go for the frugal option - stock Calcutta 100/200B handles (BNT3324) - only $12.97 each from Shimano. No bearings, but longer than the stock 50XT/100XT handles with much better knobs. A 14mm length increase doesn't sound like much...but it makes a considerable difference in feel...

Yep - this is also the method I use and I've ALSO used it at least three times to remove hooks that someone ELSE left in a fish. Like was said above - this is the single most important technique that I've learned on this board.

Yeah - they're a pretty good scale for the money. The first three that I've had were all accurate within about an ounce at the 10lb range - then I bought a 4th one and finally got a "bad" one..............it was off by a whopping two ounces at ten pounds... The report on these scales was here: Rapala Mini Digital Scale - Load Test Report While there are nicer, perhaps more accurate digital scales, the good thing about this one is that it is very compact and fits in the fanny pack I wear when fishing from the bank. The scale you have with you is always more accurate than the scale you left at home...

Ah - the anticipation is all part of the fun. Enjoy! I've got a reel sitting in my post office box, waiting for pickup. However, since it is one degree BELOW zero here in sunny Tennessee right now...I'm not in a hurry to go get it...............

The gear ratios are a tad lower, but the spool diameter is probably a bit larger than the current 100 and 200 Conquests since the listed 59/60 centimeters/turn still gives IPTs in the 23" range as on the current models. A big X2 on an option for a faster ratio. While the current ratios in the Calcutta/Conquest lines are OK for what I use the reels for....I have always wanted a 50- and 100-size with a 26-27" or so IPT. One can hope...

You bet, the Sigmas were pretty classy reels in the 80s; I used them for fresh- and saltwater. I fished the freshwater sizes until just a few years ago and finally phased them out - they still reeled in fish OK, but they just felt a bit "clunky" due to the lack of an instant anti-reverse.

Are any of your Shakespeare spinning reels the Sigma 2200 model? I finally retired my last one in January 2012.

WTG Jeff - great review ! I keep looking at Pinnacle gear (as well as some Okuma BC reels) but haven't tried any yet - too much tackle...not enough time...

Finally eBay'ed my B-Mag in 2012 - caught fish with it up until 2011. One of the eBay sale photos:

BPS is driving all their customers bonkers with their action ratings on the Crankin' Sticks. What they call a fast action actually fishes like a moderate, the Crankin' Stick extra-fast actions actually fish like a moderate to moderate-fast. These are true cranking rods, with a softer tip going well down the blank.

I've used Crankin' Sticks for minnow baits like original Rapala floaters where you are basically doing a steady retrieve or perhaps a reel and pause retrieve. But, for jerkbaits/ripbaits where you are using a twitch or jerk movement, and for topwater where you're trying to walk-the-dog or similar retrieves, I think most folks are going to say that they like a bit stouter tip than what you have on a Crankin' Stick.

Beer fridge (well, sodas) - check ! Boom box - check !

Conquest has always been JDM - the closest equivalent in the U.S. market was the (discontinued) Calcutta TE-GTs (50, 100, 200 sizes). It WILL be interesting to see if they release the 2014 Conquest on the U.S. market.

WOW - that is GREAT news - thanks for posting Dwight. The Swiss Watch of round reels to get even better... I'm about saturated with Calcuttas/Conquests right now (I'm up to 9) BUT, I will have to get at least one of these - ESPECIALLY if they ever bring out a 50-size. I wonder if they will have the sideplate access to the brakes like the current Conquest?????

The oldest rod that I have in front-line service is a Shimano "Fast-Cast" 5' ultralight spinning rod dating from about 1985. The oldest reel that I regularly fish is a 1977 vintage Abu 1500C. The oldest reel that I fish only occasionally is a 1959 vintage Ted Williams spinning reel. The oldest rod in the "second string" is a 1965/66 vintage Garcia-Mitchell Conolon 6'6" hollow-glass spinning rod (with a similar vintage Mitchell 408 reel). How old is too old? When the gear significantly compromises your ability to catch fish, or when you're bored with it, or when something about it bugs you, or when the bait monkey makes you buy new gear...

The Shimano email hit TT yesterday and there has been quite a bit of discussion over there about the future of the Curado. Might be some news forthcoming at ICAST or other shows... Meanwhile, there might be some attractive clearance prices on the Curado Gs in the near future...

I use Yo-Zuri for nearly all my applications. I do have some braid on some niche rods, and flouro on an NRX rod, but by and large I use YZ for most casting and spinning setups. Why? Mostly cost vs. performance. YZ is not necessarily the ideal line for any particular application...but it's a cost effective and "good enough" line for most applications. Since I'm keeping line on about 45 reels, cost is a significant factor for me.

10 or 12lb flouro would be ideal. I personally use 10lb Yo-Zuri hybrid for that application. Some folks crank with 20lb braid with good success. Lots of options.

If you haven't yet, check out this recent thread about cranking rods: Looking For A Crankbait Rod Under $100 This thread mentions the BPS Crankin' Stick and includes discussion related to factors to consider when selecting a rod. This thread also mentions some other brand cranking rods that might be options, some of which are currently on sale. Regarding Crankin' Sticks...I have a few: 6' ML, 7' ML, 7'M, 7'6"M, and 7'6"MH. All different tools for different purposes. They offer good value at the regular price and excellent value at the sale price. There is a Crankin' Stick model to handle nearly any cranking chore up to 1.5 ounce baits. On the BPS action ratings for these rods, their "fast" fishes like a moderate, their "extra-fast" fishes like a moderate to moderate-fast. These are true cranking rods. If I were to pick ONE Stick to start with, it would be the 7'M. It is my most used Crankin' Stick (it's the middle rod on the photo - check out the cork ) and I use it for the 3/8oz to 5/8oz range and it will handle 3/4oz well enough if you need to stretch it. If you want to use 3/4oz to 1.5 ounce baits routinely, you should consider the MH power rod. Good rods, they work - catch fish Six pounder brought in on a Crankin' Stick.

Yup - and the handle on my US market CTE-100DC is also that little 70mm handle. That's why I started this thread. Shimano doesn't use the same length handle across reels of the same size. I have a CTE-100GT with an 84mm handle, and the 100DC with the 70mm handle, so I needed to know what the length was on the 100B since you can't assume a "standard length" 100-size handle. On my 100DC, I could put a 200DC handle on it ($70 from Shimano) to keep it looking stock and get it to 84mm, OR, I could buy a HawgTech handle (bare) and transfer over the knobs/bearings from the stock 100DC handle, save a few bucks, and have a much longer handle (too long perhaps). The 100DC handle is a project for another day.....