Darren.
Super User
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Everything posted by Darren.
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Ditto to the birthday wishes, and thanks for great handles!!
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Welcome to the forums, Eddie!
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Welcome to the forums!
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Welcome to the forums, Drew!
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Lots of good scales out there. What's your price range? Does it matter if digital, or spring?Digital: Field & Stream via Dicks Sporting Goods Spring Scale: econoscale via Bass Pro Both are inexpensive...if money doesn't matter, the Boga Grip...
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Ah, now that made me laugh. Not sure there's been a more maligned line than Vanish. Good on ya, mate!
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I think we're the last two guys on earth who like the stuff, LOL!!
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That's just awful. Horrifying.
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Welcome to the forums!
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LOL. And it's one of the best lines I've used! Love the stuff as a leader.
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Senkos most assuredly have their place. They are a "my happy place" bait. LOL... I did an experiment last year, took nothing but a bag of BPS Stik-o worms out with me, fished them wacky, and caught a bunch of nice bass. To this day, they're a staple in my fishing arsenal. Also used YUM, and a number of other brands. Pretty much stick to BPS, and Senkos today. Easy to buy them at Bass Pro near me. Good thing, you've got TONS of options from name brands, to eBay sellers who pour their own.
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Another vote for the Boomerang. I've got two of them now.
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As to your 10# and 20# braid question. I use 10# PowerPro in yellow (2# mono equiv diameter). I use 20# on my bait caster. I've settled on 10# for my spinning gear and use a leader anywhere from 6-15# test. Caught plenty of big bass on all pound tests. For slack line sensitivity, JF is right, but another option is to use a longer leader of fluorocarbon. Some folks use 20 or more feet of leader, like Gary Yamamoto, who says he likes to have the leader wrapped on his spool while fighting a fish. Just something else to consider.
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I've got an inexpensive Garmin unit, nothing special, cost me maybe $75 on sale. Now I do wish I had a better unit that gave me down scan imaging or such. I built a transducer arm that attaches to my gunnel, swings over into the water. The entire system works great, is removable, but like I said, I'd pick a better unit to see the bottom better should the future hold some more cash for me
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Thanks, John. I'll look these up on the web. Do you have a pic handy of the one you did yourself? Is there a specific size drill bit that is best for this DIY project - i.e., to keep smaller hooks from finding their way out?
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Guess I need to check them out online. Wasn't sure if it was a draining hole, or an evaporative hole (top)... Thanks.
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Holes in the lids, or all around?
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Those are great, and typically fished with long poles sans reel. I learned the craft from a super-cool old Korean gentleman, Mr. Kim, a number of years ago. Is a super fun way to catch fish. While I don't fish this way much anymore, I've still got about 8 or 10 poles ranging from 10' to 20' in length.
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My favorite cheap gear would have to be the ultimate in simplicity, simple long poles, no reel, just a length of line, a float, a hook, and some bait (live or artificial). Serious fun. And I've even used these for wacky rigging, caught some nice 2 pound largies hitting a dock. GREAT fun with my boys.
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42 Oh sorry, that's the answer to life, the universe, and everything... I'm of no help here.... No, what Trey said. UV light will damage the line, so if you're leaving several reels on the deck of your boat all day in the sun, they'll likely not last much more than a season. It all depends on how much you are out, and how you store your gear when done. KVD's line conditioner will help out, too. Can't really put a time-frame to it because I/we don't know how you fish. I only use fluoro as leader material now, and I store it along side other spools in a Plano spool box, which is usually covered, and out of the sun in my kayak.
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My question would be: does 1 pack (say the small ones that come in shoe boxes) work for an entire Plano box? Or because of the divisions in the box, do you need more than one (like the Q-tips Mark uses)?
