Darren.

Yeah, the Torqeedo is amazing, lightweight, powerful, super light battery, etc., etc. If you can afford it, it's the way to go, IMO.

I built my own modeled somewhat after a BassYaks, but since I don't have ability to fabricate stuff, I improvised with bolts and such things. On your 10' yak, I'd consider a lighter battery, something like a wheel chair battery so as not to overload the boat. I have actually removed all the rigging for my motorized system because I'm not going great distances at this time, and I'm also working at strengthening my elbows which suffered from poor paddling technique and over use from fishing. You will need to rig a system whereby you use your foot braces as steering mechanisms. You can remove the top of your MinnKota, place a PVC elbow and use some sort of sealing for the wiring all the way to your right/left side where you would put the switch into a Radio Shack project box... I'd post some pix of my setup, but I'm unable to get MyMedia to load on the site right now.

The answer is yes and no. I carry both an anchor chain (or dumbbell), and an anchor stick depending on conditions. Free floating in the wind can be an exercise in frustration and controlling your tongue, LOL. I've been experimenting letting my anchor chain out a short ways in the water and it slows me (sometimes) enough to continue fishing and just drift, but slower than if I was free floating. Others use a drift anchor, or chute to slow down in the current. From experience, kayaks are not the sails that canoes are. My aluminum grumman was much worse to control in the wind, but kayaks being lower to the water don't *as much* *per se*... I'm hedging my words because it is all condition-dependent.

I vote M, but with an Xtra fast tip. This for all techniques you mention except Carolina. That's the one technique you mention (Carolina) that favors a heavier setup. My spinning rods are MXF power and excel in TX, wacky, split and drop shotting. The split-shot rig is a variant of Carolina, w/o the bead and such. S'pose you could make your own, lighter C-rig using say 1/8-1/4 oz weights. But have to make sure the rod can handle such weights.

10lb braid + leader I've posted that Gary Yamamoto article (above) several times over the last couple years. Was quite influential in my choice.

Crazy indeed. Sure hope the fish doesn't make it down to my waters! Although they're probably great sport.

Welcome aboard, Robert!

Interesting. I don't use either, but I do use heat shrink from time to time. I cut them into thin strips and slip them over Senkos, Zoom worms, etc. I try to buy sizes such that I have to pull the worm slightly to slip them on so they fight nice and tight w/o heating.

Sure that's a good setup. No reason at all you can't use UL gear! I've caught some nice bass on UL gear, and what a blast! I'd probably stay at 10lb braid. In fact, that's what I use on all my spinning gear. I happen to be a bass fisherman who prefers to use 1000 size reels (save for my 2000 size Lexa). I've caught numerous bass all the way to just over 6 pounds on 1000 size reels. Some consider these UL, though I do not. And look, if you feel like putting down your BC gear, do it. Sometimes you just need to go to what is comfortable, or more fun, so you enjoy the sport more. There's a lot to be said for mechanically simple mechanisms!!

Definitely wasn't me! My wife and I met playing soccer.

Yup, kayak fishing is my game! Its becoming more and more popular every year so it seems. Nothing quite like it

Nice to have you aboard!

Welcome aboard, Tom!

Welcome aboard!

Well, there are certain baitcasting reels that allow you to throw light stuff. For instance my Shimano Chronarch 50e combined with an im7 6' Field and Stream rod allow me to effortlessly cast UNweighted 4.75" Zoom Finesse worms on a small hook. Granted I'm not able to cast a mile, but far enough.However, I've yet to master skipping on my BC rigs. For that I opt spinning gear. If you had say 2 spinning setups, one on a M and the other a MH rod, you'd have some pretty versatile setups. If you know how to play a fish, you could catch most, not all, freshwater fish around your area, methinks.

Welcome aboard, MrMike!

Congrats to your son! Nothing like experiencing the baitmonkey together, LOL, not having to explain it to your spouse.

That's certainly a possibility. If that's what's selling, that's what they'll carry.

My own experience reflects a little of yours. I've been using XPS fluoro lately in 8, 10 and 12 pound tests. First weeks of using were great, but lately the line has been breaking. With FC, more care needs to be taken when tying knots and leaders. I think my problem may be that I got a little careless a couple times. Still, it shook my confidence in the lines a bit because I lost a few fish because of it. One thing, and you probably do this, moisten any joints well before cinching down. And though I hate it, I feel I need to tie on a new leader if I've hit a snag and given a good pull. I *feel* as if my line has lost strength thereafter. For leader tying, I like the Albright knot the best. I also tie the Uni-to-Uni... But the Albright is slimmer and flows through the guides a little better (IMO). I try to carefully tie a Palomar if I'm using a jig, weighted wacky hook, etc. If I'm tying a non-weighted hook it is always a snell knot.

Not sure that braid is displacing anything so much as it is simply gaining in notoriety. However, when I visit local retailers like DSG, or Bass Pro, mono, fluoro and copoly (combined) still outnumber braid offerings. But that's just my own observation, retail numbers may tell a different tale. For me braid is indispensable as a mainline due to line management ease. Copoly and fluorocarbon for leaders.

Yep, nice "chunk" of a crappie!

Welcome aboard, Reggie!

Welcome aboard!

Welcome to the forums! I'll second what Marty said!

Welcome aboard!