BrASSmonkey

beat me to the punch.

I tendo prefer EVA, but nt bya hug margin - but it has to be a firm eva, o lkewas used on the originacrrot stix. I just likehe way it feels better and des not tendto look dirty over time. I dont havea preence for full or split grips, usingwhat elsbest fr the application.

Check out Tackle Warehouse. $20 for 150 yds $35 for 300 yds

LOL. It's a good thing I do not represent them or make ads eh? It was just the best way I could describe it lol. More strands = more frequent but smaller ridges in the line, kind of like a finer tooth saw lol. Official disclaimer: most guide insert materials used in production rods are hard enough to withstand the sawing of your braided line.

The hihger thread/strand count changes the weave, making the line more round and smooth. This changes how the braid contacts the guide insert from a hack saw to a fine tooth saw. The rounder thread is supposed to dig into itself much less on a spool.

I think I am in the minority as someone who prefers the feel of a good firm EVA grip. I like that it doesn't show dirt. It also ends up saving me money with my personal builds lol.

LOL. But don't you want any white Curado's?

The Curado G is based on the Caenan platform. If you combine it with being specced like the Citica E; it feels like a downgrade to many, despite how it may be worded. The Curado e has been rebadged and repainted as the Chronarch e, which also feels like a downgrade when you consider the Chronarch D's position in Shimano's previous lineup. So, it seems understandable to me that people are unhappy with the apparent downgrades, at least until they get used to the notion that in order to get the same quality that they are used to, they are now buying the Chronarch E instead of the Curado E. When this happenes, then everyone will be happy again with their Shimanos. I am sure there is also some disappointment that there were no big advancements announced at this year's iCast. Then there is also an apparent hole in the lineup between the Chronarch E and the Core...

I prefer braid for the thinner diameter and added sensitivity. I am sure I will get jumped on for that, but I like it for determining the cover I am contacting. I also like the ability to rip it free from grass. I find that going low diameter on braid allows me to get to depth. I let the action of the rod cushion against headshakes and absorb the vibration of the bait.

Perhaps no real need. But, this reel has the 3D braking system, which some are saying rivals Shimanos DC system, but at a more affordable price point. I am gonna get one, but because I want a new toy lol.

I am trying to force myself to learn new techniques every year in order to round myself out as an angler and to make myself more versatile.

It sounds as if you have learned to fish using reaction baits primarily, and are now struggling to adapt to a slower style of fishing that is (generally) soft plastics. I am in a similar position to you in that I too learned to bass fish using reaction baits, and am now forcing myself to adapt and learn new techniques. Keeping your head in the right place for fishing soft plastics is the first step I think. You have to train yourself to be patient and to continuously pay attention to what your lure is doing; how it feels. You have to be in tune with your lure in a different way in order to effectively fish soft plastics. But, it will pay off as there is a reason soft plastics are as popular and successful as they are.

I have built a rod tube similar to what has been described. I bought some PVC tubing and 2 end caps. I drilled a hole perpendicularly through the end caps and tube and inserted a bolt with an eye, and fastened them with 2 nuts each. I then bought tie down straps, which I used to fasten the rod holder through the eyes in the bolts to the frame of my car. I used this for rods with no reels on them. I wish I had pics of this setup since I don't think that my description is very good lol. It works well though. We used it to take 4 1 piece rods down from Ontario, Canada to Florida for my brother's bachelor party.

This year, it has been the lipless crank since my goal is to use a lipless crankbait as my primary crankbait. For the most versatility, I will reach for a spinnerbait. I am also liking soft plastic swimbaits, although I am not sure if those would qualify.

Well, making sure you are using the lightest guides possible increases sensitivity by reducing the weight of the rod. The hardness of the insert is a rating that affects casting and resistance to abrasion. Many consider SiC to be at the top end for insert materials. How does less carbon translate to a weaker rod? I am curious about that claim.

That is exactly the technique I use! I always do this on hooksets, especially on long casts. I want to make sure those hooks penetrate!

If you are throwing those heavy swimbaits and jigs, i would probably go for a Calcutta unless you are looking at the Curado 300e...

I believe changing a Curado 201 e7 to an e6 is a matter of taking the Citica 201e gears and dropping them into the Curado. you need left handed gears that will fit. Since there is no 201 e5 in either model, I am unsure of how you would get a curado 201 e5.

As stated, for many, this is a personal preference issue. Some do not notice tip-heaviness while others do. I agree it affects tip up presentations more severely than tip down presentations. Nevertheless, I still notice it on tip down presentations, and prefer the balanced feel myself. i have added weight to counterbalance rods before, and have been happy with the results. Again, this is personal preference. Some value absolute weight of the combo over balance.

Don't be mislead by the labelling a company uses. It is merely a guideline for what the company feels the rod would excel at, or was designed for. However, handle the rod if possible, and decide for yourself as to whether the power and action would serve YOU as an all purpose rod. Personally, I would look at length, power and action in determining MY application of a particular rod. I would take the manufacturer suggestions into consideration, but would not let it dictate my decision.

I am sure it depends on how close 'almost the same' is. For some anglers, almost the same is still not the same. For others, almost the same is just as good as the same. It is up to each individual to determine whether the price difference is worth the actual differences in the reels. Aesthetics will be different. Handles; knobs; spools; bearings, warranties; these can all be different. Some have brand loyalty; others don't. Like I said, each person has a different threshold for different that they are willing to accept.

I have the PC70MHM and bought it because of the mod-fast action as opposed to the mod action of a glass rod. I feel a more positive response from the mod-fast and it is a little better for ripping crankbaits from weeds in my opinion. As far as spinnerbaits, I do believe that this rod can work well for spinnerbaits. You would just need a good solid hookset in order to make sure your thicker gauge hooks penetrate the fishes mouth.

If I am diving 2-3', I will take a Koppers Live Target in pumpkinseed or Bluegill. I have also always loved the Rapala shallow shad raps. If only they weren't so d**n light.

I too would look to use the rod for light soft plastic action. I agree that it is a tad bit too long for topwaters and jerkbaits as I too prefer the 6'6" length for that. I would use this for light soft plastics or shallow cranks (which you already do). Perhaps the rod is just not what you prefer, powerwise for any of your techniques.

My brother has had the red power pro bleed onto his cork handle, making for a lovely shade of pink. All power pro bleeds to an extent (that is why it fades), we just dont see the slightly yellow or green tinged water like you can with the red tinge.