Vodkaman

Resin is no more work than plaster. In fact you could argue that it was less work, as it does not require days to dry or time in an oven to dry and does not require sealing. All molding methods are about the same. Preparation, mixing, pour and cleanup. Dave

I prefer the silly names. Purple puke Dave

I don't do powder, but have read a lot. You are right, every color has its own characteristics, different weights/density. The drips mean too much powder. Do a search on fluid bed. This will 'fluff up' the powder so you don't get so much on. You can build it yourself with little expense. Dave

If you build your own table, you could fit some beading around the edge. Then if you get any spillage, it will stay on the table. Alternatevely, make a separate pouring tray, with beading. Then the table can be multi purpose. Molten lead moves real fast, safety first. Dave

Great read. Looking forward to part three. Dave

I really like the gill. Very nice work on the hinges too. Dave

Nate, sorry it is not going as well as you hoped. The speed to produce a shaped lure body was always going to be an issue, plus wood is not the most forgiving material to machine. I see the CNC as a tool for making accurate, symmetrically balanced masters for use in a molding process. Have you thought about casting a block of polyester resin and machining that, for use as a casting master. It should machine well without wearing out the bits. No grain and cheap. I like working with resin, it is a joy to drill and sand, it will polish up to a glass finish if you wanted. My method would be to rough machine, two minutes with a flap wheel to dull the edges, then epoxy to get a smooth finish for molding. Dave

I have never had any problems, but it does not hurt to be cautious the first pour. Choose a denser wood, it will last longer. Dave

I pour all my own ballast weights. I dowel two pieces of hardwood together and drill holes down the joint. The hole diameter depends on the size of lure I am working on, usually no more than 6mm diameter. I trim them to size with side cutters. I drill the hole in the lure with the same bit, so the weights fit perfectly every time. You cannot pour thousands, but enough, plus you can drill lots of holes. A new mold takes minutes to make. Dave

You are of coarse correct, but sometimes it is not a bad idea to expand a discussion to encompass the realm of possibility and feasibility of a subject. Otherwise the answer to the question would be "No", end of discussion. Building a prototype from generally available engineering parts and even 'spare parts' from other reels is perfectly acceptable. If you plan on taking the successful prototype to the next stage and start thinking about production, then you would have to think about patent infringement. It would be better to use individual parts rather than assemblies. It all depends of the reason for the build in the first place. If the build was a 'one off', just so that the builder can cross 'build a fishing reel' off his bucket list, then none of the above matters. Dave

Their is no doubt that it is a daunting project. Hell, just stripping down a bought reel is daunting to most people. If you really want to do it, the task is not impossible or totally outragious. The way forward is to design around existing and readily available components were possible, rather than designing from scratch and having to manufacture special parts. The job starts off with a design specification. A list of features that you want incorporated into the machine. What do you want it to do. If your spec is not met by anything on the market, then the project could be a 'go'. You are surrounded by expert 'users', who could help you write a spec of the ideal reel. What are the failings or weak points of reels. What are the strong points of certain reals. Can these features be combined? These are questions that can be asked and answered long before you break out the tools. Dave

Apart from an in-depth knowledge of different reels, I think mastery of a descent CAD package would be a necessity, to keep track of the project. Their would be some interesting casting problems, that would offer the opportunity to do something cool with the aesthetics. Dave

That would be some project and an achievement. Obviously, financially, their would be no benefit. If I had an inovation that I wanted to sell to a company, then I would consider the project, but would try to modify existing first if possible. Are you going to do it and what are your reasons? Dave

The 'decoy daughter ploy', have to remember that one. Dave

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21080-what-do-you-think/page__pid__157297#entry157297 Post No6 is interesting. Dave

John. I think it is time you did a painting video. The one time I tried hand painting, a 5 year old would have been ashamed. I know, I should have stuck at it, but it was way too bad. Dave

Sparkling spleen - I like it. Dave

Static electricity, dang I was close. Any chance of you posting a video of the process. I've got a pair of nylon Y fronts so I am going to give it a go. Wish me luck. Dave

LOL, if you hit enough of the lure making forums, you are bound to find one sucker. This is the second time I have read this message. Dave

Jim, it looks like you had total control over the crackle. What was your secret, magnets or painting in an electrical storm? Dave

I enjoyed your article, good read and very informative. Thanks for taking the trouble Frank. Dave

I made a few of those a couple of weeks ago. They wiggle like crazy with that tow eye position. Looking good Fishwhittler. Dave

Golden moment. Well done. Dave

I put the tail thing on the master to provide options. A bandsaw slot for bristles, a polycarb tail, even a hinged tail is possible, the tail can easily be removed or left as is. I think it looks wrong without the tail. I too bought a huge piece of poly, 3m x 1.2m. Nightmare trying to hack a piece off, it flops everywhere. I will have to spend some time and cut it down into managable portions. Dave

Here is the first sunfish proto, ready for its swimming lessons. Dave