Crookedneck

Don't throw the broken portion of the tip away!!!!! How much of it was broken off? If you still have the broken section let me know. I can get you some info on how to fix it. if more than a couple of inches broke off it will effect the power and action of the rod. it can be fixed by doing an over sleave, or an insert (depends on diameter of area broken) or check out http://www.tackleworks.org/ see if some local can repair it for you. Mike

Here is my latest build. It was built on a 7' Mag Bass blank. Mudhole MB843-MHX. It has has a Castaway exposed blank real seat. One of the nicest real seats I have found. Split grip. Mike

You don't need a lot of equipment to build or modify your own rods. Alot of guys start out with a cardboard box with v's cut out as a rod holder and wrapper. telephone book for thread tensioner, razor blades, plastic cups, mixing sticks, some craft brushes, masking tape, thread, and some epoxy. All of this stuff you can get at Wally world. The epoxy is probably the only thing you need to order as it is the most common thread wrapping cover. You don't need a motor to rotate your rod after finish. You can do it by hand. The first hour or so you do need to rotate it every 10 minutes or so. Until the epoxy sets One warning though, once you start it is hard to stop...... Mike

If you do a lot of research, you will find that the majority of the opinion is that the relation of spine or spline, has no real significant impact on the funtionability of the rod. I used to spline my builds. I no longer do. I now build on the straightest axis. Mike

That depends on how big of an area you are doing. And if the rest of it is going to be painted. If you want to paint it use a automobile paint, or my favorite is a model car paint. But then you have to cover the paint which is a whole nother story. I'm guessing this is in the split grip area of your handle???....do a tiger wrap....they look good there. and they aren't too difficult..... Here is one I did after I put a split grip on a buddies rod. Mike

Here are a couple of builds as of yesterday. The first (blue camo) is a simple rod I made for my 6 yr old son. He will be recieving it here in an hour or so. As soon as he comes back from school. The blue metallic decal really looks good in the sun. The 3rd pic is a wrap I just finished on another rod, just finished it up last night. Mike

Good job. I can't wait to get out there and hook some.

A tube jig or a twister tail. I use the motor oil color alot. Seems to be the color that works for me.

Those are some killer lures! Good job. Mike

my bid goes to the Pflueger President. Smooth, long casting and tough. Hard to beat for the price. My 2 cents

I always use a 1/4 oz unpainted jig with a motor oil / salt and pepper 4" curly tailed grub. Hit the current breaks and bounce it up and over large rocks, letting it slide to the down current side. A chartruse and white spinner bait did wonders for me last year. Early summer I like to use a frog colored Rebel Pop-r. The smallies tear it up. I need to find another one I lost my last one last fall to a large pike...any one know where I can get one. They seam to not make that color any more.... Mike

The MHX blanks are pretty nice, good price too. The 843 is a tad heavier than I would have liked but still a nice blank

My favorite would have to be a Rebel Pop-r in the spring of the year in the shallows. My go to would be a 1/4 oz jig with a curly tail grub, bouncing off the bottom and hitting the current breaks. Mike

This is the latest rod I built for a buddy. It is built on a Mudhole SJ843-MHX blank. All of the components are fuji. I did a tiger between the split handle and a neon cross wrap above the handle. I set this up for jigging walleye and smallmouth. Mike

The mudhole blanks are very good for the $. A couple of other good blanks for your buck would be Castaway and the Batson Rainshadow line. Good luck on your build! Mike