.ghoti.

I have some flooger spinning reels, and I can truly say nice things about them. I have one Supreme I bought the first year they came out. Don't rightly recall how long ago that's been, but it still works like it did when I got it. Of the three Supreme XTs, one was bought the year after i got the first supreme, and it still works like new. They are all light, smooth, nice smooth drags, and appear to be durable. Very good bang for the buck. Recommended. However, I also have two Certates. All I can say is, yeah, there is a difference.

They sent me one of these things. IT'S A HOOT!!! Don't think there's a chairleg, table leg, wall or piece of furniture in the house I haven't rammed it into. It may be indestructible. I now have a problem. Two grandkids, one Redneck Roadkiller. Looks like I'll be buying another one.

Raider, the test varies from state to state, or county to county, or, as the NEC states; the authority having jurisdiction. But, it is all about the Code. You dont need to study the Code. You need to study how to find a particular topic in that dastardly difficult to navigate book. You will be able to use the book. The main problem with the testing is the time limit. If you cant navigate the book, you wont finish in time. You will be able to find sample tests online. Use as many of those you have time for to practice finding answers in a hard copy of the NEC. There wont be much if any technical stuff on the test. You will not likely be asked to calculate fault currents, for example. Thats the engineer's job. You are likely to be asked about hazardous areas, Article 500. They need to know you can do an installation to Code. Good luck!!!

The split grip rod is a Bushido blank. 6'9" HXF spinnerbait blank. The full grip one is an MHX Eite Pro 7'2" MHXF, trimmed down to 7'

I like this line a lot. Been using 10 and 12.

T-rig worms: Rage Tail Cut R and GYCB 6.5" Kut Tail Jigworms: Netbait 9" T-Mac and Roboworm Shakey head worms: Z Man Elaztech Soft jerkbaits: Yum Houdini Shad and Zoom Salty Super Fluke Craws: Rage Tail Lobster Tubes: Poor Boys and Berkley Smash Mouth Stick baits: GYCB Senko Creature baits: Rage Space Monkey, GYCB Hula Grub, Rage Menace, GYCB Fat Ika Toads: Rage Toad and Z man Finesse Frogz Frogs: Booyah Pad Crasher and Ish's Phat frog Spinnerbaits: Siebert Cosmic Double Willow, Booyah Vibra Wire, Stanley Vibra-Wedge Buzzbaits: Cavitron Hard jerkbaits: Pointer and X-Rap Topwaters: Pop-R, Spook, Jitterbug Crankbaits: Don't have an opinion. I have hundreds, and can't remember the last time I threw one.

Clear eye for the bait guy

Yep, an Alps Textouch reel seat. I like. And you can get the locking hood in different colors, if you are into that.

That dude needs to lay off the coffee.

Thank you gents. It has been a pleasure for me working with the folks who have trusted me to do something like this for them. And, it's been an honor to build rods, paid for by our awesome Bass Resource members, for some of our members who have put their butts on the line, serving our nation. A huge thank you to all of you who have served, or are currently serving. And another huge thank you to all of you who have given us some of your hard earned cash to make this project a reality. I am currently doing the finish work on the next Warrior rod, and we still have enough money in the kitty to do another one. If you have not donated, please consider it. Even a small donation is much appreciated. If a hundred of you sent Kent twenty bucks I could easily build five or six more rods for these worthy folks. Think about, if you would please.

Anybody get in on this. NFC blanks at 60% off. I got two. they are going fast

I've built three Eternity rods, but not the one you mentioned. One was the 7'2" M-F. That blank is rated for 1/4-3/4oz, and 10-17lb. That's the classic Loomis MH rating. I'd recommend that one for your use, based on the info you provided. Makes a nice, light, crisp, very sensitive rod. Not sure what you mean by "stiff". The Eternity rods I've built are very crisp, but have a nice, smooth power curve. Not sure that answers your question. I have a Point Blank blank in my rod rack, waiting to be built, so I can't comment on that one.

Fishing is a blood sport. You will kill a few fish. And you will get better at keeping them alive.

Here are the only butt caps I found with a 1" ID. I'm assuming you wish to slide this over existing cork.

https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/supertune-baitcaster.html

Dremel sells a polishing kit of small components, including a tube of polishing compound. That compound is all I use. Sandpaper has no place in this procedure. A small,felt wheel and the polishing compound is all that is needed. Keep the sandpaper away from your reels!!!

Life is too short to hang around with jerks, and way too short to be one.

I have never disagreed with Mick an any of these rod building topics, until this thread. regarding the fore grip. Build it to fit your hands, since that will be your primary grasp of the rod. A skinny grip that you have to hold all the time will give you hand cramps, and you will end up not using the rod. Spiral wrapping is the perfect setup for lighter power rods. Do this simple test. If you have a light power casting rod, run the line through the guides, secure it to something that will not move, and put a deep flex in the rod. Carefully observe the angle of the line in relation to the butt of the rod, and do not push it to less than 90°. Don't have a light power casting rod? Use a spinning rod held upside down. As you flex the rod, you will see the tip guide rotate from the top of the rod, to the bottom. This twist is more pronounced with lighter power rods, but even the heavy rods will twist some. All of my lighter power casting rods are simple spiral wrapped, for this reason. One last point. I am a proponent of mod- fast rods for most applications. For years, almost all of the uber pricey JDM sticks were regular action: what we call mod-fast. They did not start producing fast action rods until they tried to enter the American bass fishing market. It is not to emulate or promote the Japanese that I say this. Mod-fast rods are more accurate than faster actions; particulary most extra-fast action rods. They cast better, and will keep the fish hooked better. The last point is more important when talking BFS. Sorry Mick. I value your inputs on rod building topics, but we are gonna have to agree to disagree here.

That particular judge has a history of bad scorecards. She should have been given the boot years ago.

Jacob, if a teenage girl has asked to be a part of your family, you, sir, are a hell of lot closer to being a saint than you would have us believe. Now, can we please talk about the government?

Bass are not smart. They have nothing to be smart with. They do have a fine set of well honed instincts.

I have the 7'2" ML-F walleye blank, built as a casting rod. I used an 8.5" Winn rear grip, no fore grip, Recoil micro guides, Fuji tip, and trimmed 2" pff the butt to get the balance where I wanted it. It's my primary BFS rod, and works great for light baits on light line, in open water. I agree with Mick. It is not a fast action stick. The 3/8oz listed max weight is on the mark. A 1/2oz load is too much for it. I like mine for just what you're going to use your new rod for, but I tend to stay near the bottom end of the rod's weight rating.

So did I, Mick.

Please explain just what is nonsense about the legality of owning real estate.

Your spots? Do you own the land? If not, they are not "your" spots.