bigbassctchr101

Unless your using a chatterbait for your swim jig. But I agree with the above otherwise.

I think that rod companies realize that there are going to be people that prefer both. A high quality rod, and a rod with a warranty. We have some guys that like that warranty, or insurance, and thats a big selling point. Also, we have some guys that don't care about the warranty, but buy a product because its a good product. Sounds like the company can sell more rods and their asking price by offering both options to fit all anglers needs. I can't see how they would ever want to change that. Also, I don't know how many rods are actually marked, but every rod from Bass Pro has a mark...S8, K10, or whatever. Its not noticable as anything to most people, but they know that the rod model was a 2008, or a 2010. Bass Pro will not usually let you exchange it after one year. I think 1 yr is a fair enough time to find any defects. *Sorry- I didn't mean every rod FROM Bass Pro. But the Bass Pro line does have this on their brand of rods, and stickers on their reels.

I think the H2O's are comparable to a bandit in a couple of their baits as far as action goes. I've caught all kinds of fish on them and think they are a good value. I think they are much more durable than the DT series of Rapala...I've broken so many lips off them guys I don't even worry about buying them anymore. But, I've been known to be rough on a crankbait. Bandits are a good quality bait with all kinds of color choices and you can usually run into a deal with them. Stike King is also hit or miss, but for the most part they make a good crankbait for all depths that will catch fish. The cosmetic durability stinks, but they still catch fish. After a bunch of abuse though I've found they too start swimming differently.

Hit Watson's once you get down here. http://www.watsonsmarine.com/

I have all my mediums stacked up in a corner. I thought I would like them, but ended up hating them for almost everything I used them for. If I throw anything with treble hooks I either use a MH with a slower tip (spooks,poppers, some lipless lures, and hard jerk baits, etc...) or a MH with a moderate blank. (shallow/mid cranks, most lipless baits). It is kinda neat to hear what everyone uses for certain applications though. For example, I throw flukes, senkos, trick worms all on a 7' MH-H rod with 15-20lb line. When downsizing my lures, I downsize rod length, line, and lure weight/profile, but I stick with the same action.

I think the general saying on this is...on a slack line flouro can transmit a bite better than braid. But on a tight line, braid (having 0-low stretch and its other physical properties) should transmit a more sensitive feeling to the rod. It would depend on the way you use your set up most and personal preference.

I agree with the longer rod for the A-rig. You'd be fine if you were throwing a 3 arm rig mostly, but with 5 arms, that can wind up with a lot of weight. With a longer rod you'd be able to load it up and make longer casts. On the flip side, I like a shorter rod for Froggin (7' Heavy), it allows me to roll cost, skip, and get into tighter places. Both sizes could be used for either... I think you would be better off figuring out which one you would fish more and getting a rod suited for that. 7'6 Heavy would accomodate both set ups well.

looks like the Nitro Tourn Z is just a Browning Citori. Which were AWESOME reels. I never cared anything for all of the other bass pro brand reels except PQ and JM, but if this is just a Citori and Browning is making their reels, it would be a great buy. I'd go with it in a second.

EH... like that stuff from wal mart??? lol Has anyone used to? Worth spending money on? I wasn't aware that had this, but will have to take a deeper look at the Viscious selection of line.

Is there a company that makes a flourescent copolymer line? Someone once told me to try the stren flourocarbon in flourescent, but I won't be going that route again. Thanks for your help.

I'm using a double braid knot and half hitching the tag thru the eye and loop before I cinch it down. I also take a split ring and attach it to two split rings and tie to that. Then I can switch between the different rigs I have quickly.

Very touching story Terry! Welcome!

I agree with what everyone has said. And this is the basic rules that I follow as well. But, I do have a Carrot Stix crankin rod. Seems like a Med Heavy with a moderate action I guess. The rod in a whole is strong enough for a spinnerbait (even when being pitched around in tighter places), but the blanks action gives way down the rod, which makes the rod a good crankbait rod. Could also be used for topwater or a light t-rig. If you have only one rod right now, a rod like that may be something to look into. It would cover a lot of different things, but it wouldn't be a rod you would have to give up once you start upgrading into technique specific applications.

I've broken several rods. Cheap and high end. I think it has to do with a little bit of everything. The cheaper rods were usually tossed in the back of my truck and beat and banged around. Explains that. And I knew that when they broke. I was expecting it eventually. The higher end rods though broke on me in much the same way. A hard hookset, once on a cast. I don't think this is from mis-treating rods, but could also be from a defect, or just the stress and vibrations rods take while on the water. Like the post above this says... its just part of it. Knowing how to care for and handle your rod on and off the water can decrease this though.

Awesome! Very great info!

I'd also recommend to install split rings to each loop so you can replace your snap swivels. I think I'm using size 3 so I can make sure that my snaps give way before the split rings. That way I can straighten the snap out and only loose one bait instead of 3 (Tennessee). Split rings make it much easier to replace the split ring once its done for.

Did they break under pressure, on a cast, backlash? If you were trying to pull ut a backlash and kinked the line it would also cause this. I'd start by taking a cotton ball or q-tip and running it around each eye on your rod. If you have cuts in the eye it can cause weak spots in line. Are you trying to connect two lines together by splicing them and casting to that point? I'd try an albright knot if so.

I use 2 different rigs in Tennessee. A 3 wire with 3 baits with hooks, and a 5 wire with 4 dummies and 1 hook. My reccomendation is no matter where you put one hook, make sure you have one on the center wire. On the 3 or 5 wire, I always put a long bait and off colored bait (like a 5" chartruese if the rest of my baits are 3.5" and white). Over 90% of my fish have always come on the center bait. Even with the 5 rig, I have just as much confidence on my hookup ratio as I do with my 3 wire with 2 more hooks.

I thought this thing was the same rig that ANYONE could you with NO EFFORT and catch all the fish in the lake? I'm glad some people aren't catching fish and reeling in doubles on every cast. The rig works. But it has its time and place. I wish more people would have fished it and came up with these mixed results before everyone hated on it and called it cheating though. There will always be fish that can be caught on this thing. But same holds true for crankbaits and jigs. Personally--- I'm hoping more and more people have several days that they zero on it and eventually put it up =)

Could possibly have a shim on the cast control that could have fell out. It would make everything seem like they are set the same? Different line (braid to mono) would be the most simple. And simple is usually the best solution.

I found a trick for getting the rig out of bad snags. Probably not a trick for all, but I was happily suprised! I used to use an 18' extension pole lure retriever. This thing works great for crankbaits. But, it would only push the head of the rig, none of the wires. So, i started using the old heavy hounddog attached to a long line(dog leash or twine on an old ambassador). The weight of the hound dog plus the big hoops in the middle allow it to slide down over the head of the rig and takes the wires back down to center. You come back up with all 3 bait (Tennessee) hooks hanging onto the dog retriever.

I always let my jigs fall on a semi-slack line before hitting the bottom? When fishing big 5" spoons- same thing. Only thing I really fish weightless are flukes and sluggos. But, I always watch my line. With that being said- I'd rather have a flouro so I could watch my line AND feel a bite if I miss the twitch. I'm not good enough to not use all my options to my benefit.

Good times to fish c-rig. Now - this time next year. I don't fish it near as much as I should. But I do fish it a lot in the spring on spawning flats. And I also fish it when I am scouting new water or hunting for fish. When I'm scouting, I put on a 1-1.5 ounce weight and slow reel it over the bottom always keeping my sinker in contact with bottom. It gives me a feel for the bottom composition as well as telling me what size the aggressive fish may be in that area.

Also, I have noticed that if the head of your rig is heavier than your baits, it can allow for several flips before entry. I had a problem with this on my first couple of homemade rigs. Feathering helped a lot along with the other tips JF gave.

Actually- you can use 3 wires with 3 blades with 3 swimbaits. I talked to this fella before the video came out. Not everyone has seen it, but I think its excellent for legal and illegal definitions. The question about the blades is around 5:45. I'd recommend everyone watching it in Tennessee though! http://www.youtube.c...Wi4Gt-6Fo?rel=0