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Which Electronics
I'm jumping in here. My advice: Ask your self, how do I fish? How do I want to fish? What kind of fisherman am I? Will I spend lots of hours (months) learning to use $10 - $20K worth of electronics? I'm relatively affluent and can have whatever I want. I've made the move back to "relatively" simple. I don't need everything in the boat connected together. Got rid of the Ethernet. Got rid of One Boat Network. I don't need the stuff connected to my phone. I don't need boat gages on my depthfinder. I tried this. Turned out I was spending too much time playing with toys instead of fishing. Current setup (Old time HB user): Xplore 12 CMSI at bow. ML2. Stand alone. Connected to nothing. Strictly my FFS unit. CMSI on TM. but seldom use. Never touch the Gee Whiz stuff on the Xplore. Waypoint management - Ha! Helix 10 MSI at bow. M360. Networked directly to an Helix 12 MSI at console primarily for waypoint sharing. 99% M360. GPS occasionally. Helix 12 MSI at console. Use for SI, DI, 2D, navigation, etc. Updated to current mapping chip. All ,and a lot more, than I need. My point: Don't get caught up watching some sponsor shill on the Tube or on TV that gets his stuff for free, or nearly free, and thinking that you need it.
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Considering switching out Shimano for lews
All them Shimano's are good reels. So are all my Lews, Revos, BPS, KK, and whatever else I can find in the boat, truck or basement. I doubt there is any real significant difference between any of the major brands at the same price point except individual preference.
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Considering switching out Shimano for lews
I might as well jump in. I ain't no brand junky. If you spend $100 on a reel, you'll probably get a $100 reel. If you spend $200, you'll get a better reel, maybe. If you spend over $300, you can brag to your buddys. I've gone to Lew's for a while, particularly for the Super Duty 300, but I have reels by most of the big guys. They all work well. Some fit me better than others, particularly the SD300. I like the big reel. It's overpriced, but a very fine reel. I will add that I have bought several of the cheaper KastKing reels. (Under $100). Very pleased. My first string jerk bait reel, and I'm a jerk bait addict, is a $50 Kast King. It's on it's third season now. Some guys would find it geary, but it flat fishes as well as reels that cost 4 time as much. If it wasn't for my fetish for the SD300, I'd buy more KK's , and try some of their higher end reels.
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Will my wiring work on my new trolling motor
What Tennessee Boy says. 6 ga, in theory would be better, but you will never notice the difference in the real world unless you run wide open a LOT. In the 70's we ran them on 10 because that's what could afford, or scrounge. Don't ! Go fishing.
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Failed Polygraph at Tombigbee
Here's my opinion. Every angler fishing these tournaments knows before they pay an entry fee that polygraphs will/may be used. The anglers apparently requested more of these test. (At least you read they did), Not a court of law where legal standards (whatever they are) must be met. A test agreed to by the angler prior to entering the competition. Until (if) we get more information, we can only assume that something happened to trigger the test. Without the polygraph as an additional verification, it would only be whomever triggered the tests word against the angler. Something happened. Betcha !!
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What is your price point of Diminishing Returns on rods and reels?
I haven't tried any of the KK rods yet. If they match the reels, should be very good.
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What is your price point of Diminishing Returns on rods and reels?
IMHO, It depends on what you are trying to do: Catch fish, or show off to your buddies? I'm relatively well off, an can afford anything I want, but anything over $250 is show off buying, and won't put a fish in the boat. Now I do understand the enjoyment of owning and handling a fine piece of equipment and that should factor into decision making, especially if you can afford it. For me personally, I would rather have 3 - $130 tools than 1 - $500, when the $130 tool does the job. A point of personal interest . I bought a couple of Kast King reels of AZ just for fun. Their normal $100 reels that AZ had on sale for about $50, and I had a bunch of points so I paid $25. Amazingly good reels. On has worked its way into my normal rotation on my number 1 jerk bait rod. This is my second season using it and I jerk bait fish a lot. No complaints of any kind. I have a handful of Super Duty 300's as my most expensive reels, but I consider them kind of specialty reels and worth more than I normally would spend. It's only money. If you got it, spend on something you enjoy.
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Best braid for spinning reel
Do you want "the best" regardless of cost, or are you looking for good fishing line at a fair price. If the second option, I am very pleased with the Yo-Zuri braid. Else, just buy the most expensive. I think everyone has what they call a premium product at a premium price. You won't be disappointed until your credit card bill shows up.
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Powering livescope off of trolling motor batteries
In a straight answer to the OP: YES, you can. It's 12V DC. There are potential problems as pointed out. I've never run FFS that way. I have a pond boat with a 24V TM. I run 2 - Helix 10 MSI's off one of the TM batteries. Of course, the outboard is a pull start. I do not have any interference on the Helix's. Separate battery or crank battery recommended.
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Fluorocarbon coiling/memory: How effective is stretching as a solution?
Maybe all the "non-stretchers" never catch a fish. They stretch my line. I don't buy all the "ruins your FC line" ideas. Every time you cast, every time you wind in a lure, every time you catch a fish (if you do), you stretch your line. Take the first 50 feet or so and stretch it gently. It will help and won't hurt your line. Or you can let it out behind the boat and drag it for a while. Or you can spray conditioner on it, or water and Dawn. Or soak it in hot water. I personally hate FC line. Except for a couple applications, I use braid on everything. Various sizes and lengths and materials for leaders. Solves all the problems. All you guys that go multiple years on FC line deserve what ever problems you have. Twice a season for me, or more if I'm fishing hard. Another reason to use braid.
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Composite Rods for bladed jigs
I like composite rods for chatter baits, spinner baits, ploppers, most any moving bait. 7 foot medium heavy BPS Crankin' Stick. You can spend more, but you won't find better at 3X the price.
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100 dollar casting rod
I have 4 of the TP2's. Fine, fine rods. BPS has them on sale (I think everyone does) for $87. Next week at the fishing fling, you can get for $67 with a trade in. Every review I have read, as well as my experience, is very good. I have no experience with the Daiwa or Shimano rods, but I'm sure they are good rods. Find what feels good to you. Rods are very personal. You may not like what someone else likes.
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FFS or Mega 360
Got em both. Like em both. Entirely different tools. Would you rather have a flipping stick or a jerk bait rod? Same question.
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Keeping a positive attitude
I'm still paying entry fees. Fishing is fun. I've done it almost all of my life, but I still love to compete and hate to fail. You either catch them or you don't. No participation checks. Failure still kills me. I had an acquaintance that tournament fished until 82. I will beat that.
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Keeping a positive attitude
Fishing messes up a lot of heads. You have to deal with failure. Most people can't and rationalize around it. You either catch them or you don't. You can't hide. When you don't, you think about the soft stuff. I'm 80 years old. Fished all my life. Been tournament fishing since 1975. Retired now from work, fish 150 plus days a year. Love it. Every second, whether successful or not, I appreciate the experience, but I'm upset when I don't catch them. I do most of the time. Whether in a tournament or fun fishing, I work my butt off. I hate to fail.