BassinB

If i were in your position I wouldn't have stopped. I would have ran back to the weigh in and notified the director of a boat broken down. Obviously they were only a few minutes from the dock so that extra few minutes wouldn't have been a huge deal to them and you would have saved place in the tournament. This is barring extreme circumstances however (severe injury or if their boat was sinking or something)

those are cool lookin. A lipless crank will get down there too. just count it down and rip it back.

haha ok.. good lookin bait

a DD22 will reach down there with a few tweaks as well.

For smaller pike and musky (under30") the boga is a decent tool.. much bigger than that however and holding a fish in excess of 12lbs buy the gill or mouth will cause damage to them. the only time I pull a fish like that out of the water is to snap a quick picture and then I make sure to support them horizontally.

Unless your boater happens to be throwing.........a C-rigged Rage Tail Eeliminator!

I had one and got rid of it for a powerpole.. mine was a pain when going underneath low bridges and when I used it on sandy silty bottom the junk would stick to the pole and then slide up into the housing causing it to grind and stick a little. I don't know.. To me the idea of the Talon sounded good at first but after some real world experience with one I'm glad I got rid of it.

Alright ill check that stuff out. Thanks guys

I lose a dozen or so jigs a year to pike and other toothy critters in the lakes up here in wisconsin. I've tried everything from short steel leaders to heavy flouro leaders to different line types and i still end up ~40$ in the red at the end of the season. Not a huge deal but i had an idea.... I am wondering if i tied a short 6-8" lead core line leader to my jig and then to my main line, would i decrease my bite offs without wrecking the action or strength of my technique?. Now, i have no experience using lead core so i have no idea if its possible or if its "bite proof" but i just thought of this. Any ideas?

Gambler tubes for pitchin docks and pads and slop. They seem to slide through cover really well especially with a coat of megastrike on em. And Get Bit Baits smallmouth tubes, they come in different cuts and lengths that are hard to find in other brands.

That YouTube video is awful...I've fished behind a terrova quite a bit and although autopilot is nice I wouldn't trade it for my maxxum. I can navigate through trees much smoother and quieter than in the video.

I'm lucky in that my apt complex has rentable garages. I bought a light bulb to outlet converter deal from fleet farm and I'm golden. Before I had one of the garages I left it hooked to my truck....a lot. Real pain in the ass but the only way I felt secure. Just yanked the batteries after fishin and charged them inside.

Im all for it. The damage carp cause to spawning areas of soft bottom lakes for other fish is enough reason for me to remove as many as possible. The Asian carp are at the top of my list of carp that need to be controlled through whatever means possible and if that includes killing them with bows, bats, or heck even shotguns I'm fine with it. All of the carp shooting tournys around here donate their catches to local farmers for fertilizer.

I have both of these locaters mounted to my boat right now. The 5x is mounted on my console and is used for locating structure and just ranging my depth while driving. It picks up a fantastic bottom lock all the time even at 35+ mph and has adjustable ping rates and screen scroll settings that make it perfect for driving and scanning for structure and/or saving your prop. The 570Di is mounted on the bow of my boat and I use it for locating fish and seeing the structure in detail. It holds a bottom lock pretty well and has no problem with interference from my trolling motor. The two are d**n near a horse a piece in my opinion, the Di is nice if your are moving slowly or are mounting it to the bow of your boat, the 5x has what seems a more definite bottom lock and I prefer the menu setup.