NitroZ9

I would highly recommend talking to Bob Luellen at Worldwide Marine (bob@worldwidemarineins.com). He moderates a forum on another board and a lot of guys use him because he is very knowledgeable about marine insurance. A friend of mine bought insurance through him several years ago and was very happy with it. When I got my new boat in May, I decided to call Bob. He set me up with Progressive which is what my buddy has. Two weeks after getting the insurance, and the second time I had my boat out, I hit a submerged object. It knocked off a large chunk of my cavitation plate. I took it to my dealer which is four hours from my house and left it. The insurance adjuster looked at it within a few days and approved a new lower unit casing. The adjuster kept me informed of what was going on the whole time. I was extremely pleased with how this was handled. By the way, I saved around $60 a year from what I was paying with my old insurance.

Something else to keep in mind about KVD L&L is that it is a water based polymer that will actually bond to your line. Most other conditioners are petroleum based and just coat the line. You can actually see them coming off in the water. I have been able to use flourocarbon for a long time due to L&L, because it keeps it manageable. Without it, flouro. gets stiff, coils up and has to be changed often. That really helps, considering the price of flouro. Also, don't be afraid to use it on braid. It was originally developed specifically for braid and flouro. I fish braid with a flouro. leader on my finesse spinning gear and always keep it coated with L&L.

Following is a quote from the owner of Lock-n-Haul, Jim Smith, which may be of interest regarding this topic: “I've been manufacturing a 'transom saver' replacement since 2006, and have been involved in this conversation literally hundreds of times. You'd think by now I'd have a standard answer to the question about motor support and I actually do, but I think it's better to talk about the mechanical issues involved. In the old days before the power tilt system, there wasn't any way to keep the skeg off the road so a pretty bright individual figured out that by putting a bar between the lower unit and the trailer, that problem was solved. That discovery evolved into a form of support that would keep the freely pivoting motor from 'pivoting/bouncing' up and down, and keeping the full free-falling downward energy force from impacting the transom with a thud when the downward pivot range was suddenly reached. In those days the 'transom saver' was typically strapped to both the trailer and the lower unit so that the free motor couldn't pivot upward and off the trailer roller and hit the road, ‘ pole vaulting' the motor. Boats in the past also had a lot of wood in their construction, and particularly built up in the transom for obvious reasons, and there might have been some flex in some of those transoms. On some boats you could actually grab the lower unit and push or pull to witness the transom flex in and out, and so common thinking was that by supporting the flexing transom at the trailer, the transom was being 'saved'. Now fast forward to more modern times and advancements in every aspect of boat building have evolved to include structurally integrated wood free transoms, that are engineered to carry heavy motors that produce powerful forces to push the bigger boats up onto pad and through the water. Now days the power tilt piston is the equivalent of a solid support bar that holds the motor at any angle in its' range of motion, and hold it there solidly without movement. So now that we have transoms that can handle the rated motor size, and power tilt systems that can keep the motor tilted, the only thing left is the fact that all of the motors rigging connections, the mounting and pivot bushings/bearings are still free to move uncontrolled on our rough roads, which is different from the movements that occur when the motor is pushing the boat through water, and the forces are mostly uni-directional (unless your prop is out of the water a lot like mine). A 'transom saver' is really only a universal name for a motor support these days and doesn't actually share any load with the power tilt piston, and doesn't really save your transom. What you are seeing in your rear view mirror is not the motor 'bouncing' up and down, but shaking in all directions from the clearance in the bushings and bearings of the motors rigging. The more it shakes, the looser it gets and the looser it gets, the more it shakes. The modern 'transom saver' needs to keep the motor from shaking and there isn't anything available that does a better job than the Lock-n-Haul. This solution is the first and only one that fits about 90% of all of the models and sizes of all outboard motor brands, and on any boat/trailer combo, that completely eliminates all of the clearance in the steering and tilt pivots . With the Lock-n-Haul properly installed, the motor can't move independently at all in any direction.” There are plenty of boaters around the world that believe that trailer support is the best way to go. One consideration is the fact that by introducing a stressed connection between the weakest part of the outboard (lower unit), and an independent object (trailer) that can and does move independent of the boat no matter how well strapped down, you are allowing any sudden movement from potholes and such to directly hit the lower unit which can't move away from it because of the power tilt, and that thump goes straight through the motor to the transom. Another consideration is the fact that no matter how much down force you put on that style of support, you will not be able to eliminate all of the shaking. Even if you use a set of steering clips to keep your motor centered, it will still not be as solid as using a new style support that doesn't go to the trailer.” Jim

The term transom saver is a generic term from years ago that is really no longer applicable. There is no way to remove the weight of the motor from the transom. Unlike in years past, modern boat transoms are made to support the weight and torque of large high horsepower motors. What you are really using now is a motor support. You are supporting the motor so it doesn't move around when trailering. Movement of the motor will be introduced into every one of it's components and can eventually result in failure(s). The "transom saver" that attaches to the trailer introduces road shock into your motor. Even if you are using steering clips, the motor will move, as the clips cannot be made tight enough to be installed/removed and still prevent movement. If you are using the old style support that attaches to the trailer, push your motor from side to side and notice the movement. That movement is amplified going down the road. The Lock-n-Haul will completely stop all movement and does not use off-set pins to support the weight of the motor. It supports the weight in a straight line between the mounting bracket and steering pivot bolts.

Take a look at the Denali Jadewood series of cranking rods. They are in the $100 range and are extremely nice rods for that price point. I use the 7' Med. and it does everything I need, but I don't do a huge amount of cranking. It has a very small blank and is lightweight. You could probably use these rods for spinnerbaits, but I use the Denali Rosewood Spinnerbait rod for that. The Jadewood series has a spinnerbait rod, but I prefer the longer length and heavier action of the Rosewood model. Both models come with a Limited Lifetime Warranty.

I changed over to braid with a flouro. leader several years ago and have not looked back. It completely solves the manageability issues associated with using spinning gear. I typically use 10-15# braid with a 6-8# flouro. leader, connected by a Uni knot. You can use the same braid for a long time, which really helps you save money from having to re-spool a lot. I use it for both shakey head and dropshot.

It's very unusual for me not to have a C. Rig in my hand a large portion of each day I'm fishing. It's a technique I have supreme confidence in and fish it in both shallow and deep water. I have tried many combinations of line, rods, terminal tackle etc. with it. I tried braid on it years ago and immediately discovered that I had a problem with rocks cutting it, and have not used it since. Here's what I use; 7'2" heavy action rod, 20# Flouro. main line with a 15-17# Flouro. leader. I use a swivel to connect the two and a glass bead and brass "ticker". I rarely use anything other than a 3/4 oz. tungsten weight. If I'm fishing very shallow with it all the time, like on a tidal river, I'll use a 1/2 oz. weight. The hook size I use depends on the size bait. I like the low stretch of Flouro. for the main line and I feel like I can use a heavier leader because of the clarity of Flouro. I fish mainly clear lakes and it works fine. I like a longer rod with a heavier action because when I set the hook, I'm picking up a lot of weight with a leader on the end of it. I basically fish it like I'm fishing a Texas Rigged worm. When I get a bite, I sweep the rod to the side. I use many different types of baits; Trick worms, creature baits, Senkos, flippin' tubes, etc. I rarely fish a Texas Rig anymore. To me, a C. Rig is much more efficient. The key to this technique is the same as any other, you have to fish it enough to where you are catching fish and have confidence in it.

You might want to take a look at the Denali Rosewood series. They are high quality rods with a Limited Lifetime Warranty and are around $200, depending on the model. They have several different cranking models. I don't do a huge amount of cranking and I actually use a Denali Jadewood cranking rod. It has a very small blank and is very lightweight. The Jadewood series also has several different cranking models and sell for around $100 with a Limited Lifetime Warranty. You won't be disappointed with either one.

Bluebasser86 is absolutely right on skipping. I fish docks all the time and that's the only way to get baits way up under them. Using spinning gear will be the easiest way for you to learn the technique. It takes a lot of practice using baitcasting gear.

I use FC for those techniques because I fish a lot of clear water and I want good sensitivity. I feel like I can get by using heavier line in clear water using FC. I normally fish 15-17 lb. I also like the sensitivity of FC due it's low stretch. I used to have problems with breaking knots with FC. This year, I started using the San Diego Jam Knot and have had zero problems. The drawbacks of FC are manageability and cost. I keep my FC coated with KVD L&L and it keeps it much softer. Not only does this help with the manageability, but I can use it a lot longer. That really helps when you consider the cost of FC.

I use a Denali Rosewood 7' MH Worm/Jig Rod with a Revo Premier and 15# Trilene Flouro. for most of my jig fishing on Smith Mt. If I'm using a 3/4 oz. jig., I'll step up to a Heavy action in the same rod or the 7'2" Denali Terry Bolton rod. The thing about the MH Rosewood, is that it is an extremely versatile rod. I can use it for jig fishing, texas rig, wacky rig senko, etc. Also use it for pitching and C. Riggin. When you can buy a good rod and use it for multiple uses, it's very cost effective.

I haven't fished the Dobyns but I fish Denali Rosewoods and couldn't be happier with them. I have them paired with Revo Premiers and it makes for an extremely light combo.

The majority of my rods are 7 ft. or better. I use them for skipping baits under docks in addition other techniques. I feel like I can get a better hookset with a longer rod and have more control in fighting a fish. I'm not a tall guy but I don't use a rod for any technique that is less than 6'9".

You really need to take a look at the Denali Rosewood Rods. I fish two Rosewood 7' MH Worm/Jig Rods for jigs and plastics. I've been fishing these rods for a year and they are as nice of rods as I've ever fished. They're extremely light and the actions are perfect. I was skipping jigs under docks with them yesterday and I was skipping wacky rigged senkos in early spring. That's how versatile they are. I had been fishing Loomis IMX and these rods are every bit as light and sensitive and sell for $199.

I have never used the Powell's but I have been using Denali Rosewood's for a year. I will tell you right off that I am on Denali Pro Staff because a lot of people think that if you are Pro Staff you are going to say something good about the product no matter what. I don't represent a product or say good things about a product unless I believe in it. With that being said, I absolutely love my Denali's. Every time I use them, I am more impressed. I had been using Loomis IMX rods prior to the Denali's and I honestly feel the Denali Rosewoods are every bit as light and sensitive. The actions on every Rosewood I have seems to be just right and the components are high quality. Denali is using a ring lock guide on their rods which prevents the ceramic inserts from coming out. I for one really like that.