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http://m.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12180469&ppp=24&convertGET=1&cp=4406646.4413874.4415119.4415791.12239839 A little on the thick side - I've cut a perpendicular short straight line (1cm or so) about half way up the index finger and thumb so I can pull the glove up and over those digits and temporarily stick my bare finger and thumb out the holes to use them to line tie, etc. Experiment with a cheap pair before cutting holes in expensive gloves. Or, I've seen some gloves pre-fabricated with this feature - check those out.

You want to prevent issues?? Dump the girlfriend. Send the reel to Delaware valley tackle to get it cleaned; that should help too.

I rig those baits weedless (except the jig) - still lose a ton.

I fish Lake Lillinonah and Zoar in Connecticut a lot. They are housatonic river impoundments. Lilly is known for having some nasty cover along its shores. Rocks, chunk-rock, storm-blown brush and lay downs carried from up-lake/river, Pretty gnarly stuff has accumulated down on the bottom over the years. The fish are down there but what should I throw? I get snagged way too much when throwing jigs, shakeyheads, tubes. Do I just have to take my lumps and lose a ton of baits fishing this heavy cover?

Sounds like s#•++¥ conditions. I would have thrown exactly what you were throwing. Except maybe a small hair jig.

I'm in the same boat as you with using the right jig color given the water clarity. I'm always unsure if I'm using the right color or not. To build confidence is to get bit. We all know jig fishing is less bites than normal. And you want to make sure everything is perfect in your presentation of the jig if you're only getting a few bites. Unfortanely, you can't tell as well as reaction baits if a color change is needed with a jig. You can drive yourself crazy changing size, sound, color, trailer - when you have little clue as to why they're not biting your jig because it's not your confidence bait. I think all these uncertainties only add to the troubles of gaining confidence in the jig. I'm going to try to build more confidence in the jig this year by spending less time switching this or that. I think time is better spent understanding the proper feel of working the bait and learning as much as you can from the few fish caught on the jig. This requires more time and commitment to the jig actually being in the water. Don't get me wrong, I'm going to do my best to throw the best jig given the conditions, but less time contemplating changing this or that. I'm usually the one asking the questions, but I just thought since I'm in the same boat, I'd throw in my thoughts.

I'm trying to put together a basic starting football jig arsenal. Probably just two colors: black/blue, grn pumpkin. Rattles and no rattles. And two different weights, 1/2 and 3/4 oz. if I want to use lighter weight, I could use a 3/8 or 1/4 hula grub on a football head i never skip jigs, just senkos and shakeyheads, so I don't need the arky head. When I pitch to wood, its usually a sweet beaver or something weedless for less hang-ups. Am I missing anything?

Thanks. Once I have some money after the holidays, I'll have to order a few to experiment with.

I saw the river2sea jig in that football jig review tackle tour did a while back. They look pretty nice under water with the rubber skirts. It got me thinking to go with rubber skirts in colder water. Anybody else do this?

I Definitely like the looks of the dredge football. Does it have a trailer keeper? If not, what do you do to keep the trailer stable? Can a rattle collar (like the naked baits collars) fit over the hand-tie skirt?

Anyone use the Ganns Draggin Jig? Looks great

Thanks, Tom. When it comes to this technique, I've caught the most fish using a plain football head with a thin weed guard and hula grub. Lots of love for the site sponsor!

I'm already thinking about next spring. It's a goal of mine to gain confidence throwing a jig. I prefer the football head jig for less hang-ups. But I'm not opposed to listening to those who like the "arkey" head. Which head style is better for less hang-ups in the rocks? I don't like the straight in-line eye tie as they can get pinned in between rocks. I don't like a super thick and long weed guard. I don't like a rigid skirt with weak elastic keeping it together. I love when they already have an elastic for rattles (if needed). So, what's the best brand and style out there? Which brand jig has it all in your opinion? I'm really going to devote the time and patience this season into throwing the jig. And because it requires a lot of time and patience, I want to make sure I'm using the right jig. Thanks. (early spring, rocky areas, very little vegetation, some occasional stumps and/or storm broken tree limps here and there)

i have a Kistler magnesium technique specific DS rod that's MLF - but I found it to have a heavy tip and not balance that well. I've been using an older St Croix Legend Elite 68mxf lately. Which rod would you use with 12 lb braid to 8 lb leader?

As soon as I feel the bite I pull my hands up pretty quickly (maybe too quick or too hard). And then I extend my arms further out (but not too far) from my body to allow for absorption of the hard runs that SMB are known for. For one fish I had casted the DS pretty far away. He hit at the end of the cast and I "leaned" into him - thought I was doing everything right, but lost him near the end of the fight - so I'm not sure if that one was my fault or not. Am I right by letting the fish set the hook on himself after the initial "lean" into him? What should I do when he makes the run to the surface and eventually catapults 3 feet in the air? I've lost more fish on this characteristic run to the surface followed by the jump

I dropped two good smallies yesterday on the drop-shot. I was wondering if there was any advice on improving my hook-up and landing ratios. My gear: 68MXF rod 2500 stradic with 12lb Sunline Braid with a 6 ft leader of 8lb PLINE Fluorocarbon 1/0 (not size # 1) gammy drop-shot hooks nose-hooked shad imitating bait 3/16 ounce tear drop weight 1ft - 1.5ft below hook

Yes. I'm a member - co-angler. Most do use the MHF rods at Candlewood but my buddy throws on MF spinning rod - similar to DVT. Just wanted to know what others use. When you say "worm weights" do you mean bullet sinker in front of hook or nail weights inserted in the bait (or something else)? Thanks. I did terrible in the two-day.

Thanks for the replies. Had a good fish come off this weekend because I don't think it loaded up well. I think my line of choice in the future is 12 -16 lb FLuoro on a 70 MF. Now to find a good rod for 150 or less for this.

I only own 1 gloomis - remind me of the power and action of that rod? thx

I prefer throwing the 3.8 Swing Impact Fat. Usually I throw it on a football head jig for more "wobble" and protection from snagging rocks on the bottom when dragging super slow. I also throw it with a 1/4 oz bullet unpegged in front of a wide gap hook for a weedless presentation. I see some people throw it using a spinning rod (with 1/4oz round jighead), but I usually use a baitcasting setup MHF rods 6'6" or 7'0". What do use as a rod and reel set up? Should I be using a different rod?

Lotta northwest CT lakes and of course Candlewood (amongst others). Yeah, I have a few other techniques / lures to use in the grass, but I'm having trouble getting the kicker fish / bigger bites that come from pitching / flipping to good grass. I want to make sure i'm using the right action / presentation once the bait enters the water. I'm very curious to see how other members pitch and flip once the bait hits the bottom - how long they keep it down there and what action do they give the bait, etc...

In both those videos the guy does exactly what I was trying to explain in writing. The line goes through the eye on the hook point side and comes out the other side (opposite of the hook point / shank side or whatever you want to call it). The last guy said coming through hook side implying that the tag end was down near the hook point. I wanted to make sure that I was doing it right, which I am. That can be confusing because of how difficult it is to explain in writing. But as long as the tag end is entering through the hook side and exiting through the eye on the opposite side it is being tied correctly, right?

I'm not having great success pitching the milfoil this year. Up in CT where I fish, the milfoil / grass is not matted up most of the time. In some lakes and places its growing to just under a foot or two of the surface in up to 10-11 FOW. So the rig doesn't have difficulty getting to the bottom most of the time with 1/2 -3/4 ounce pegged bullet sinker. Some fish are reacting before it hits the bottom, but my buddy is getting more fish working it on the bottom. I don't think my problems lie with the setup I use or the way I'm pitching, but rather with the action I'm using when working the bait after it hits the bottom. So, my question is: what type of action should I be using once it's on the bottom? How long should be 'working' it? If I can get away with not pegging, should I let the weight slip freely to impart better action if the fish are taking it off the bottom as opposed to grabbing it on the initial fall? My main stays: SHIMANO crc76xmhf pitching rod (cork not new Eva foam) SHIMANO CURADO 201e7 50lb suffix performance low vis green Bobber stopper or EZ peg rubber to peg 1/2 ounce to 3/4 ounce tungsten green pumpkin bullet weight 3/0 gammy straight shank flippin hook for beaver style baits 4/0-5/0 gammy straight shank flippin hook for brushog Snell knot

The line should come through the eye on the shank side not point side, so you can make your loop parallel and on top of the shank away from the hook point. Am I right about this?