Packard

I'd still get the Pflueger if I was you.

All I know is I won't be trying it on my Oakley's.

Saltwater is way different. On my big game rod I used 30# braid with a 20# leader. You aren't casting repeatedly like freshwater.

Why would you take a chance with your sunglasses? They make lens cleaner and it isn't expensive so why take the chance? In most cases it is the same price or cheaper than L&L.

The ports in the spool aren't there for you to tie to. No, dodgeguy knows what he is talking about. Backing keeps braid from digging because it is something it can grab on to. Most people here would agree that backing is more effective than tape. He is using thirty pound test and it will dig. When you set the hook it will dig and you will have a major headache. I would take the braid off and put a little backing on it then re spool.

That might dig really bad on hook sets if you didn't put on backing.

Is your spool tension too tight? I know this may sound obvious but you do know how to loosen the drag, right? You turn the drag star backwards or if you are looking straight at it, you turn it to the left. Try looking at the pinned thread about setting up a baitcaster.

I interpreted as it was just a regular seller not an outdoors type store. Then again I am not really following what you are saying lol. We probably have had different experiences then.

I always back off the spool tension and the drag before long time storage.

I assume the coins are glued together and to the rod. Have you had any trouble getting rid of the residue after removing it? Cool idea thanks for sharing.

He said these were new reels though and are from a seller not a manufacturer. I've bought some shimano b series reels that were new off ebay with no problem at all. 100% feedback doesn't mean that they are completely trustworthy but it is better than being below 100%. I've been dealing on ebay for a long time on both ends and if you go through Paypal the buyer can pretty much screw the seller for no reason. It is way harder nowadays to screw the buyer. I realize that there are some cases in which the buyers have been screwed but if they are listed as new reels they almost have to be perfect or eBay will make you refund the buyer if they complain. The only special cases I would stay away from are dealers that are out of country as ebay has little control over them. Just my 2 cents and I hope it will give you some peace of mind.

If they have good feedback then I wouldn't worry about it. They might have bought too many of them and left one of them in a closet and forgot about it.

Dang, that tool costs more than his reel!

Squarebills are my favorite bait. I am running them on a 6'6" M/F St Croix Premier rod with a Shimano Chronarch 100B 6.2:1 reel. I love the combo and have caught some nice fish on it. St Croix's power ratings are underrated so the M is more like a MH. I had used a 6'6" M/M Bucoo but got rid of it because it was too flimsy and weak. I wouldn't recommend that rod. The veritas is alright for it's price but I prefer the premier's full cork grip for squarebills. No matter what rod you get you are going to want a Medium-Heavy power with a fast or extra fast tip. Why, because with squarebills you are fishing in shallow cover and need to move that fish and with a moderate tip you cannot do that. In the way of line you are going to want 10-17 lb. copolymer or fluoro depending on your cover. I have used McCoy Mean Green, Seaguar InvisX, Sunline FC Sniper, Sunline Super Fluoro, Seaguar AbrasX, P Line CX and CXX, and Yo Zuri Hybrid. My top three favorites would be Mean Green, InvisX, and FC Sniper. Now after re reading your post I realized I looked over that you use a 1/4oz Crankbait. I don't understand why you use such a small bait especially in Florida and you have caught a 9-10lb Largie. With most baitcasters you are going to have hard time throwing that light of a bait. May I suggest trying the SK KVD 1.5 Squarebill. This is my favorite Squarebill and I have tried the RC 1.5's, Little John's, BDS, and more. But since you already have the 200e5 I suggest you flush the bearings to get that extra casting distance. Hope I somewhat helped but it is late and I am mostly rambling.

Lions made the playoffs and msu won the outback bowl!

I caught a few on the shad color but no one try them.

That pretty much sums it up. Very informative post!

Best Producers: Yamamoto Senko 5" BPS X2 Shimmy Worm Berkley Power Worm 7" Favorite: KVD 1.5 Vision 110 Rage Craw

Not really a new idea.

I've seen saltwater guys use it. It doesn't have the best reviews for freshwater though. Bill Dance also swore by Stren until they stopped sponsoring him or hi seas upped the ante. There are much better lines out there for less money.

I'd get a spinning rod and reel to toss your lighter baits. Then with your baitcaster I would toss some bigger baits. My suggestions for smaller lakes are weightless senkos, strike king red eye shad 1/2oz, strike king kvd 1.5 squarebills, zoom flukes, and 7.5" culprit worms. These are just some great baits to throw and with a little experimenting, you will figure the lake out and will be reeling in the bass!

There isn't a problem with casting it that way. With practice you will become a better caster.

There is a thread in the Rods & Reels section on this topic, check there.

The way I think of it is, when using a spinning reel the reel is below the rod so I reel left handed. Flip a casting rod upside down and the handle is on the left side.

I like them. If you see most of the nike college uni's they are designed like this. That also would take a long time to design all of those uni's by an amatuer.