Tywithay

Bottom contact is about the only thing I worry about sensitivity. Stuff like jigs, t-rigs, carolina, etc. I don't do much finesse fishing, but that'd be the other I'd worry about. Most moving baits, it doesn't matter a whole lot.

It costs about $10-$15 to have the guide rewrapped. I'd get it fixed right, just for the piece of mind. Last thing you want is for it to pop out again when you have a fish on the end of the line.

Had a Stradic FJ on a Tatula rod for a long time, though I recently swapped it out for a *** ***, just to try it out. Also have a Fuego 1000A on a Shimano Clarus UL rod. I don't care about brand loyalty or anything of the sort, because none of the manufacturers pay me or give me equipment.

Thin braid digs into the spool. Especially if you're using the slick coated braids, or super thin 8 carrier braids. I prefer braid that has at least 12# diameter (keyword: diameter, not breaking strength), especially if you're really whipping lures out there. People typically try to get super distance with cranks and jerks, so that only adds fuel to the fire, because it's putting that much more load on the line. The reason it breaks was mentioned earlier, braid has relatively crappy shock strength. You can pull in a log, but if you yank it really quickly, it snaps pretty easily.

I love Daiwa, but wasn't a fan of the SS. The Metanium is 10x the reel if you find a good deal.

*** 7'1M or MH, depending on the weight of your jigs. I haven't found anything better for the money.

If you find a 103 for a good price, it's well worth it. They're outstanding reels. Also keep in mind that the reel doesn't have magV, the spool does. Find another deal on a 1016 or 100 spool and you now have magZ.

For 4" senkos the 852s is probably the greatest spinning rod ever imagined. I don't like throwing 5" on it though. I usually jump up to a baitcaster for that.

Look for a used KLX. Nothing else comes close at that price

I have abu large EVA knobs on my bb1 pro and they fit like a charm. I hate Lews crummy knobs

Makes me think the Curado may be on the way out to make room for a Chronarch G

Msrp is $149.99

I think the Curado is smoother, more refined, and feels more solid. I cast better with the Tatula, but I'm a magZ fan. Unless you're concerned about the extra $40, flip a coin and you'd be a winner either way.

I will weight it if the balance is less than desirable. Typically, I'll just buy rods that balance well, instead of jerry-rigging something. Nothing bad about it at all, unless you're purposely trying to have an ultra lightweight combo.

I work in aircraft composites, and we test graphite extensively. With the stress that a fishing rod takes, it'd take a couple hundred years, under normal usage, for the rod to break down. Maybe 20-30 years if it was stored directly in UV rays 24/7.

I have the inshore model. I use one brake on with zero mag. Haven't had any issues.

Lexa can be found for $69. That reel was $130 when it wad released and was a pretty good value at that price.

Adding weight to the butt will always be the best way to achieve a balanced setup, unless you have a custom rod built specifically for the reel in question.

Haven't had any one of those issues on mine. That's all operator errors. They're unbelievable reels, especially for the price right now. Just a stupid deal at $130.

Digitaka. Free shipping. Usually get it in 3 days. Painless

2500 for line management alone. Anything shimano from the sahara up. Look for a used stradic or saros and you'll be even happier

You can buy heat shrink tube and cover a good section of it. When you heat it it will form to the handle.

You can't swap the spool, body is a different size. 6lb line would be fine, but you better buy a bulk spool, or use something as backing. I'd probably go a minimum of 8lb. 4000 is pretty big for most practical bass applications. I use a 4000 for catfish, stripers, etc.

Stradic FJ. Don't look back

Lowest stretch non-braid is sunline shooter. It's tough as nails when it's wet.