Tywithay

Pretty normal for a lot of saltwater guys. It's to prevent salt and sand intrusion, not for lubrication. For most freshwater, not really necessary. Grease all over the sideplate doesn't mean that the bearings are packed. Chances are it casts fine still.

For open water, I like the softer tip on the 733. Plus the 744 is a DX.

Go with the better rod. There's no reason a "texas rig" rod can't handle jigs too, if you want to. I never see much need for two t-rig rods, because you're not going to have to set the rod down and retie a lot, you can usually just change plastics.

I like the 733 for that stuff.

How heavy are your jigs with trailer? Any cover?

It's a glass/graphite cranking rod.

Unless your hands are completely numb, you can tell the difference.

If you know the part numbers just shoot an email to Jun at japantackle. He should get you hooked up.

Are those ratings all based on the same diameter? 25lb Sunline Super Natural has the exact same diameter as 14lb Yozuri Hybrid...

I've used several different brands and models over the last 27 years or so, have yet to ever have a warranty claim on a reel or have one wear out. They don't all feel like new, but they're all functional and in good condition.

All rods dampen vibrations to a degree, but the more vibrations that can transmit through the rod, the more you feel in your hands; not the other way around.

Aside from looking different, likely using different frame materials, and actually having QC; they're pretty similar in looks.

Take a reel to the store and put it on the rod. Thread the line through and tie on a sinker Put your cell phone down either on vibrate or have some music playing, so that it is creating some vibration through the speaker. Lay the sinker on to the phone and see if you can feel the vibrations. When you're fishing, you can't put your tip guide on the bottom to feel what the structure is.

Nope. I think the 50 sized Aldebaran is the new 50 sized Core. I think they just bring it over, same as the Antares and Metanium.

I use 8# Tatsu for my spinning reels. Tatsu and Sniper are my all-around lines, use it for weightless plastics, open water type stuff. I usually only get Tatsu when it's on sale. I can buy Sniper locally, so I buy it as needed when there's no time to ship, not too often, but I like it as a lower cost alternative for the same techniques, with only a small loss in performance. I use Shooter for my bottom contact and anywhere that I need extra abrasion resistance. I have yet to find a tougher line, plus is has very little stretch compared to other fluorocarbons, increasing sensitivity.

The Pflueger Patriarch has the same highlights. Guessing these likely use the same Mg frames. Definitely like the black a lot better than the white on the Patriarch.

Gen3 switched to IVCB braking, same as the MGX.

4 carrier is used when you don't want to pay for a pricier 8 carrier. 8 carrier lines have a tighter weave pattern and tend to hold their shape a little better. Supposed to allow for smoother casting and rounder profile to prevent line digging on the spool. Diameter isn't based on the carriers, if the 8 carrier uses strands that are half as thick as the same strands used for a 4 carrier, they'd be the same diameter.

I'm kind of the same way. Where I am, it's all about catfishing with zebcos and ugly stiks. I enjoy having nice new stuff just so I can go out and enjoy it for myself. It adds a little something extra.

Saw this on Mike Ike's page. He said in the comments it will be showcased at ICAST and will be available in July. Pretty slick looking, compared to most of Abu's spinners. Appears to have the rocket spool lip that a lot of the JDM Abu's have (basically the same as Shimano's spool).

The last reel I bought, I woke up and checked the USPS tracking to see where it was. It said it was in New Jersey. That evening, we were leaving for dinner and I almost kicked the box off the porch. I never trust that thing.

Adding bearings just creates a slightly smoother sensation while cranking, compared to bushings; makes it a little more effortless. It's not necessarily about freespool. Some guys prefer to use heavier oil/grease to make more of a buttery smooth feel, others use low viscosity oil and let them fly. I prefer the lighter oil myself. It's not something I have to have, but it's cheap, and further adds to the refinement of the reel.

I don't care about status or what others think. When I buy a new reel, it's because I want it. Maybe it's the looks, features, improvements, or whatever; but there's a reason I want it.

I pretty much only use Sniper, Shooter, and Tatsu. I think the Spiderwire fluoro is complete rubbish, but that's not necessarily the problem in this situation. Fluorocarbon is much more dense than braid. A full spool adds at minimum a couple grams, depending on the lines. You'll have to add some braking, or use more thumb control, when casting fluoro, compared to your braided line.

The Type R and the standard Tatula both come with one bearing and one bushing under the knob. That's why I said "2 MORE bearings in the knobs." They took out the bushings and replaced them with bearings. They also removed the bushings from the worm gear (levelwind) and replaced those with bearings. This is an upgrade that a lot of us with Tatula's have already done for ourselves; very simple to do.