Tywithay

I have 4# Super Natural on mine. It's plenty, with proper drag.

I've got several rods in that price range and the most sensitive I've used, for the money, is the Kistler KLX. It's more sensitive than both rods you mentioned, in my hands. The build quality is flawless as well. The Kistler Helium3 is similar in price to the IMX and it's even better. Dobyns Champion is another good option. It's on par with those two in sensitivity, but balances much better. You'll be able to get them 25% off in a couple weeks during Independence Day sales. Another rod that totally outperforms the price range is the 13 ***. It suffers slightly in build quality. Nothing major, but I've seen minute mistakes like excess epoxy, or guides that are a little crooked. The blanks are fantastic though. I thought it was every bit as sensitive as my GLX, at half the price. They'll also be on sale for the 4th as well. That's just a few. I feel like most manufacturers have caught up, or even passed, the two you mentioned in recent years. Loomis especially seems to be holding on to their reputation, and not putting out products that are competitive for the price ranges, aside from the NRX. The St Croix is a slightly better value, but has its own issues. Because of the minimalist handle design, the rods over 7' tend to be very tip heavy. I also had issues with the small cork handle below the reels seat. It flares out and pokes into your palm, ended up bruising my hand after a few hours. I realize not everyone minds it, but it's definitely an odd design.

The Legend is more sensitive, in my opinion. However, the reel seat can be a bit uncomfortable for some. Definitely recommend getting your hands on one with a reel to see if it feels right. I still think there's better options than both of these, that cost far less. The IMX is especially disappointing for the price. Nice rod, but not worth nearly $300....it'd be tolerable if it were around $200.

I buy for particular techniques, unless I just really want something...then I'll figure out a new technique.

When a fish is pulling out line, ie. engaging the drag; be sure not to reel in. It puts twist in the line and undue stress on the reels internals. From my experience using Zebco 33s, most folks don't use the drag anyway and crank it all the way tight. I was thinking about your casting issue as well. If you remove the lid, check the plastic piece that sits on top of the spool. It's been about 15 years since I've used one, but I seem to remember that plastic piece sometimes sticking up on one side maybe just a hair and a loop of line will catch it when the line is flying off the spool.

I have a 4000 Stradic FJ that has performed flawlessly. I live about as far away from salt water as possible, so can't tell you about that. I don't use my 4000 for bass, but it is my catfish/striper reel. It has dragged in some 50lb+ flatheads and 10lb+ stripers out of a tailrace, and never skipped a beat. I don't doubt that a Stradic "could" be used for saltwater, but I think that's why Shimano makes the Saragosa and Spheros specifically for saltwater. I think the saltwater approved label on the Stradic is more of a "it's ok to use," but not necessarily recommended. I can tell you that in freshwater, for the street price, there's not a better spinning reel out there, period.

The Malaysia plant is run by engineers and qc from Japan anyway. Guys take turns at each plant for a duration, then switch; from what I've heard.

I have a Fuego 1000A on the same rod, works beautifully. I imagine a Stradic would be just as good.

A spinnerbait typically needs a little more braking or thumb at the end portion of the cast due to the wind resistance. Senkos fly pretty well. Might have to click the mag up a couple.

Also, don't confuse "good" drag with a "strong" drag. Just because a reel says it has 20lbs of drag doesn't mean it's worth a crap. A smooth drag system is more important. Most bass techniques use less than 5-6lbs at most anyway.

I like braid when making 100yd+ casts from the bank with my surf rod. Otherwise, I fish too many rocks and it's worthless. Best alternative I've found is Sunline Shooter. It only has about 6% stretch, which is roughly half of what most mono and fluoro lines exhibit. Plus the abrasion resistance is like something from another planet. It gives me the best combination of tight and slack sensitivity.

Have you removed the knobs to see if they're missing bearings? That'd be the quickest answer.

Love my 5.4. It's definitely a powerhouse.

Hate the handles. I'm so over the split grip thing.

I've been partial to higher end mono/copoly, but I've bought a couple spools of Hi-Seas Black Widow and like it a lot. It's relatively cheap on amazon. There's a review on TT as well.

A good fluorocarbon is the most abrasion resistance line you can use, save for wire leaders.

I've used the MGFb, FH, FJ ,CI4, and CI4+; from the Stradic line. It's a toss-up between the CI4+ and FJ, but really those others aren't half as good, in my opinion. They all fish well enough and get the job done, but there's something about the newer ones with X-ship and the smoothness you get out of them. I haven't noticed any drop-off in build quality either, if anything they're just as good or better.

For the knobs I like stainless steel shims. I ordered mine from a shop that sells parts for rc helicopters. The 4x7x.5mm tail shims work.

Are you casting to the end of the line? I would cast until it stops and pop the top off. Look for anything that might be holding it up

Buy better line. You can troll it all out and reel it tighter on the spool, or use line conditioner, but it's going to coil up again. That line is known for having crappy memory and poor knot strength. Tightening the drag has nothing to do with casting. Have you experimented with the brake settings at all. Until you get proficient with a baitcaster, more braking will be necessary.

7'2" H Daiwa Tatula. It's one of the lightest rods in the price range. Build quality is phenomenal. Hard to beat for the street prices you can find.

Tatula is a better value, not at the TW price though. You can find Tatulas $50 cheaper at other sites.

How long is it? Is it a spinning rod or casting rod? Have to give a little information or we'll just be throwing stuff to see if it sticks.

If a reel offers other-worldly performance and weighs 8oz, it's easier to overlook than an 8.5oz reel that offers average performance. I have an SS SV that's a few crumbs over 5oz, but I still reach for my Antares 9/10, even on the same rod, because the performance makes my day that much more pleasurable. What'd you do to a Metanium to make it weigh 8oz? Mine only weighs 6oz.

I've caught 2 flatheads over 40lbs on low profile reels, one on a Chronarch CI4+, and the other on an Antares. Both were crankbait fish. I never felt like I was losing the battle. I was fishing open water, so little chance of a snag though. I think I still prefer a sturdy round reel, but mostly for the bait clicker than actual power.