Tywithay

If it were me I'd get a 7'1M *** and Symetre 2500FL.

They're definitely an acquired taste. I didn't like them one bit.

Team Daiwa V ($79) Daiwa Tatula ($103, $135 after bearing upgrades)

I can see differences between 12# and 14#. Seems the bigger the jump, the bigger the difference.

Flushing the bearings has little to do with the quality of the bearing. Even a ceramic abec9 bearing can be slowed down to a crawl if it's packed with grease. Flushing the stock bearings is about getting the most performance out of them as possible. They're often shipped with a lot of heavy oil or even packed with grease from the factory because it prevents them from being damaged. Most folks just run them as is from the factory, so manufacturers don't want them binding up because they're dry. Packing them also prevents saltwater intrusion and corrosion. It hurts performance overall, because the bearings can't spin at full potential.

Edge Mag Bass 705-1. Best rod I've ever had the pleasure of using.

The "needle-like" bearing is the anti-reverse bearing. Be careful cleaning that one. Improperly lubing it can cause your anti-reverse to slip. The bearings in the knobs are just shielded bearings. This is pretty typical and most bearings come this way. There are ways to take off the shields, but it's not necessary. They can be cleaned, but it takes a little more elbow grease. I usually use my dremel and run them real fast in a jar of 50/50 engine degreaser and water. Seems to clean them in about 30 seconds; one drop of oil and they spin like brand new.

I have to add another reel into the mix as of today. I picked up a Cabelas (Daiwa) Verano 2500. This thing is pretty dang sweet. Looks-wise, it beats the Stradic FJ, in my opinion. The retrieve feels more fluid than a Stradic too, though it's just sitting on a rod. I haven't had a chance to get out and fish it, but I am definitely sold that it's going to be a pretty sweet reel. It's on sale for $129 right now, which is a pretty dang good deal. If you have a Cabela's nearby, definitely worth a look. I still have a couple Stradic FJ's and I love them, but this Verano might just unseat them as my favorite mid-priced spinning reel.

The 8lb rating is based on Japanese line, which is true to the rating. Power Pro ratings are based on American 8lb test, which is a thicker diameter.

I'd do a new Curado and KLX.

Maybe a ML Tatula, or even a ML Lexa rod.

Believe that reel has dual braking systems. Probably too many centrifugal brakes turned on inside the sideplate.

Tatula is a more robust reel. I like it for doing the dirty stuff like pitching into cover, cranking, etc; though it can cast just about anything. The Ballistic is more of a light duty reel to me. It's good for bouncing jigs off rocks, fishing t-rigs, weightless plastics, and stuff of that nature. Should make a sweet 1-2 punch.

you need to look at the japan rakuten site. Just search Rakuten Japan on google and click Rakuten Global Market.

I used 4lb Sunline Supernatural on my Sahara 500. Don't recall ever having issues with line jumping off. Just have to make sure you don't overfill and that the line is put on the spool correctly. I never used it, but line conditioner can also help limber it up some so it lays on the spool better.

Some companies ship reels packed with grease, because it almost ensures that the performance will last as long as possible without fear of damage. It can hinder the performance and slow things down. Some other companies tend to ship their reels fairly dry from the factory, which can cause damage to internal parts and cause premature wear. Having everything lubed properly can absolutely improve the performance. I wouldn't say it's a necessary thing, but it can only help. I usually tend to fish mine for a bit to ensure there's no manufacturing defects, then I'll tear it down after a month of two of solid use and maintain it properly.

Have 4 Tatula's, like them a lot. The TWS is for real.

Stradic CI4 and CI4+ are spinning reels. Chronarch CI4+ is a baitcaster.

They're supposed to be like that. It's a "tangle-free" guide, similar to the Fuji K-Series.

With 10lb braid, I'd look for a 2004 size. It will hold about 100 yards of 10lb braid. With that light of line, a 2506 or 2508 wouldn't even be "shallow."

It's not a necessary thing at all. Bearings come from the factory packed with grease because the manufacturer assumes people will not flush them, and they're trying to prevent future maintenance issues. Flushing them will get the most performance out of the stock bearings, but they'll perform either way.

Agreed. Never understood how a guy can spend hundreds on a rod, but won't spend over $5 on a spool of line. The expensive braids and fluorocarbons will last a while too. I've had some Tatsu on my ultralight for over 2 seasons now.

Most 4lb test is not 4lb test. Something like Berkley Trilene XT is among the strongest, but it actually breaks at more than 6lbs; they just put 4lb on the package and say "strongest 4lb line in its class." Japanese lines like Sunline the 4lb will actually be 4lb. It's much thinner and technically not as strong, but it is a much smaller diameter. I use 4lb Tatsu fluoro and haven't had an issue bringing in bass or even the occasional catfish or carp. If the drag is set properly, you can bring in pretty much anything; unless you're fishing near some snags (I wouldn't with 4lb anyway).

In theory, it doesn't matter. Lighter line lays nicer on the spool though. It also allows for smaller knots.

The rod loading isn't as significant with a spinning reel, in my opinion. You'll still be able to fling a 10" worm a long way. When he hooks a fish in the muck, he'd appreciate the backbone.