smalljaw67

The picture is the classic example of high sticking and pros do it all the time and when asked why they will tell you it is because they are on the clock. I mentioned before that I spoke to someone who designed rods for a living, he told me that he cringes every time he watches a tournament on T.V. and with the new materials and technology today, companies can manufacture rods that are in the 2oz range but unfortunately people are still going to boat flip fish and they will high stick too and break the rod and expect it to be replaced for free. He told me that more than 90% of rods he saw returned were all user error and the two most common themes were high sticking and boat flipping. He told me the best one he heard was a guy that said, "but it was only a 2lb fish, the rod was a MH it should have no problem" and he tried to explain that even if the fish weight 2 ounces it would still be wrong because the rod was not designed to work that way and even though it can be done with proper technique, it is still wrong to do. Another way that rods hav been breaking are on hook sets and the man told me it is almost always with braid and it happens during a thing called snap setting, the person either gets bite from a big fish or it is a snag and they set the hook, but not just rearing back, they drop the rod and that act is what causes the rod to break as it puts slack in the line and the rod goes from no tension to fully bent in one motion and it shocks the blank and snap! Now the reason it doesn't happen when there is tension is because you feel the pressure as you pull up and you end up stopping at the right moment but when you snap set, the movement is so fast because there is no tension or pressure and the rod is moving super fast for a split second and then full pressure and that speed ends up bending the tip section a little too far. Make no mistake, pros do this and they know it and will tell you that they realize it but they are fishing against the clock so saving seconds gives them as much fishing time as possible and it also means they do some bad things with the rods and what it means for us is that rods won't get any lighter until a material if found that works as good as graphite but won't break when flexed passed 90 degrees.

The highest speed reel you have will be fine. If you aren't sure just get reels that are in the 6 range, that is considered the all purpose gear ratio. I'll also give you a little help in deciding what you need, any technique in which you move the bait primarily with the rod, those techniques you will want a high speed reel, for baits that you move with the reel mostly, well you want a slower ratio but which one? The more resistance a lure has when reeling, the slower the gear ratio, but when in doubt, anything in the 6 range. The reason is the slower gear ratio reels have more torque which makes it easier to reel bait with high resistance like deep diving cranks, those that dive deeper than 14' for me get a 5.1:1 and it is the only bait that I use a slow reel for.

The OP is talking about the ElaZtech type of worms that Strike King and Z-Man make, that plastic doesn't work with a screw lock unless you heat it with alighter and that is a pain, especially when it is windy outside.

Bluebasser86 is on the same page as I am. The black nickel Laser Sharp model Eagle Claw hooks are one of the best bang for your buck out there, I now use them over Mustad. For Wacky hooks it is the simple Gamakatsu octopus hook but flipping, Trokar gets the nod but truth be told, I do use a few different model trokar hooks. As I said, I like the flipping hook as well as the HD worm hook which I use 2 different styles of worms but after that I use a lot of the Laser Sharp.

I have a medium power Vendetta casting rod (1st generation), it isn't a bad little rod but it is rated 1/4oz to 5/8oz but I can fish 3/4oz but going above that is pushing it and I find that to be in line with the medium rating as there is no industry standard. The reason you heard that the rods have more power is because the action are faster and the rods don't use a soft tip, they are quite stiff. So go by what the label says and you'll be fine. As for using the MH or H, that would be what you need to figure out, if you can fish the jigs you use now in cover and it is working then stay MH but if you feel you need a bit more then go with the heavy.

I find that the term "smooth" to be like "balance" because everyone has a different view on exactly what smooth is. Some reels, like the Okuma reel with elliptical gearing tend to have a connected feel that is butter smooth but you feel the gears mesh, it is hard to put in words. I have heard of people having reels that got smoother or better feeling over time but I haven't had that experience but I believe it is probably excess grease and oil beginning to dissipate as most reels are over lubricated at the factory because not everyone services their reels . What the extra money did in terms of performance is a smoother retrieve and maybe not more distance but it probably takes less effort, that is normally what I have experienced when I was getting upgraded tackle a long time ago. I have some inexpensive reels ($120) that perform as well as my more expensive models but there is no doubt to which is the better reel, and one area you probably haven't got to take notice much is the drag, and not many factor that in but a good smooth drag is important and the reels you got that were more than your pro max probably have a much better drag system but you could have anticipated that your casting was going to be 50 yards further and be incredibly smooth and having to be just marginally better could be a disappointment. Just remember one thing, everyone has a price where you hit the "law of diminishing return", and you have to figure out what you like because it isn't only performance of the reel, it is also about the refinement, does it have clicking drag and spoll tension controls and other kind of stuff, it all comes down to what you value and what you're willing to pay for it.

The Buzz Jet is a wake bait and it works well on a slow steady retrieve, but I found that if you vary your speed during a retrieve it makes it even more effective. I'm different than A-Jay as I don't pause them or any other wake bait, but I do like to speed up and slow down during the retrieve, this will often give you clues to how they want it. Sometimes the back has to be out of the water and other times that want the entire bait under the surface, but it is exciting to fish.

In terms of casting distance, anyone who is decent with a bait casting reel can get good distance from a cheap reel, that is not the measurement of how good a reel is. The Pro Max out performing the Revo S could be due to the braking system adjustment but the difference in quality isn't close, and the same thing with the Lews Tournament Lite, I never saw the elite. Casting distance is only one metric, there is smoothness, weight, materials, and durability and that last one is a biggie!!! With light use you will get 2 seasons out of a pro max, maybe 3 is you don't fish but once a week or only use it for light worm fishing. If you are using it to chuck and wind 3/8oz and 1/2oz spinnerbaits or crankbaits, well my guess is it will last a season, maybe 2 if you're lucky. The reels price reflects the material and labor costs, there is a reason why the pro max seels in a combo for less than $100, and I'm not trying to bash a product but it truly is an entry level reel. They are made to perform just like any other casting reel, and the thought behind them isn't for you to use one year after year but to use it for a season or two and if you really get into the sport you'll upgrade, they aren't made for long term use. The other reels will perform just as well 5 years from now and even longer if you take care of it by having it cleaned and lubed every year or twice a year depending on how much you use it.

I'm one of those function first type of guys that I really like all my set ups but if I could have my choice it would be my finesse cranking set up. Fenwick Aetos 6'6" medium light power, moderate action casting rod with a Quantum Smoke 150 (1st Generation) 7.3:1 gear ration casting reel. I use a few different reels on that rod but lately the bass have been hammering small square bills burned over the bottom, the faster we go the bigger the fish seem to get so that Smoke is what I'm using now and the entire thing filled with line is just a hair over 10 ounces.

For taking my baits with me on someone else boat I have a Plano 3750 which holds 18 1/2oz spinnerbaits really well. I like it becase all the cube style boxes make it tough to stick in a bag, they are great for the boat but when I'm going with someone else, it fits in my bag next to my other boxes.

If you are getting a high end popper so it will walk, well you may end up disappointed. A lot of good poppers sit with the tail down at a steep angle, this makes it easier for a bass to get it and it makes for a ton or water movement but walking a bait like that is tough. The best ones to walk are the ones that sit level, the Storm Rattlin' Chug Bug is far from high end but it walks on its own and if you want high end at a better price, the Yo-Zuri 3DB poppers are excellent!!!! The 3DB has great finishes but it sits level and has a little depression at the top of the mouth, sort of a second cup, this is for spitting because the bait sits level and if you do a series of short, fast pops the bait will walk the dog and spit water at the same time. If you prefer the "ploop" sound of a stop and pop type bait, all you need to do is make a slightly longer and harder pop of the rod and you can get the bait to go down creating that effect. I'm really high on those poppers because of the ease of walking and popping, when a bait excels at one type of presentation, it usually lags in another but this isn't the case with the 3DB popper.

Backing saves money and it will let the braid dig in and keep it from slipping. Some people thought their reels were broke but it was actually the braid slipping. Some spools are made for braid now but still use the backing as it will save you money. Also, you really didn't switch line, mono and copolymer are basically the same thing as they have the same properties.

From your description I'm guessing you'll be fishing from the bank a lot and if that is the case you really don't need a flipping set up. I'd look at a rod that is between 7' and 7'4" medium heavy with a fast action. Line is easy, 15lb Berkley Big Game, it is mono but it has excellent abrasion resistance and it is very affordable and it will let you fish moderate cover no problem. I can't really help you on brands or models because I don't know your budget and we all have different views on what is cheap and what is mid range and so on. Most here would see anything under $100 as entry level.

The little anal fin is a dead giveaway for the Spark Shad.

The Bagley Bang-O-Lure has 2 versions, they have the spin tail jerkbait and the Bang-O-Lure twin spin prop, both are killers!!! The Yo-Zuri 3DB Prop is just incredible, it has a single rear plastic prop that throws water really well and has a very distinct sound, right now we are hammering smallmouth on that bait and they are only $8 and $9 bucks but my local Cabelas just had them on sale for $6.99.

They are too heavy and make a spook sit too low in the water, on a crankbait I could see them but not on a topwater or jerkbait. Stick with the ST-36 for the Spooks but size will depend on what you have. If you have the original Zara Spook with the hook hangars then you need big hooks, size 1/0, with the Super Spook Jr. or the Super Spook you need size #4, a set of 2 for the Jr. and a set of 3 for the Super Spook.

You didn't read his post, he isn't using lead, he was using a tin/bismuth alloy that melts at 281 degrees and he needs 275 to fully coat and cure powder paint, putting the jig over a torch like I use would make a mess. Other than that, yes, a fluid bed will really help and the Eastwood curing oven will give you better heat control.

My favorite is a Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth 6'9" M-XF but the Fenwick Aetos 7' M-F is very good and has sensitivity to spare. I will say this, the new St. Croix Avid X in a 6'9" ML-XF is a rod I don't need but want, it weighs just about the same as my Aetos, similar sensitivity but in the 6'9" length I like with the extra fast action, killer versatile set up.

If you are going to have 1 finesse stick make it a medium power, it is more versatile and can fish a wider range of baits. There is no industry standard so one medium can be another's medium light, I'm not sure if Dobyns powers are the same across the lines. Length is easy, if you are looking at fishing places where a premium is put on accuracy then 6' to 6'6" will fit the bill nicely, if you need some versatility like accuracy and distance then look no further than the 6'8" to 6'10" range and for fishing deep water or where distance is a premium, 7' and up but to be honest I have a 6'6", a 6'9", and a 7' and the 6'9" is the sweet spot.

For the price you got a good rod!!

When they say it will be available on the 9th of a month, it is only an estimate. Not only that but sometimes it is available direct from the manufacturer and hasn't hit retail shelves yet. I got my first Fenwick ET Smallmouth rod when they were first released and I had to get it directly from Fenwick as there wasn't any retailers that had them yet, it all depends on whether the shipments go to a central warehouse and get distributed from their or if they go to multiple retail warehouses for distribution. If you can't find it in store try the manufacturer, in this case Pflueger, and see if it is available from them.

The Lews is by far the better reel and it isn't close. The Caenan is a graphite frame while the Lews speed spool is aluminum and that alone is worth the price. The only Speed Spool to stay away from is the laser speed spools, those are graphite framed also but normallt run $79.99.

Rocks and boulders don't grab your line like brush and weeds do and I have similar places that I throw a swim jig and 12# works great. If you run into heavier cover like brush or tree limbs and heavy grass, then you can go to 17#.

If the link works it will take you to a place to get a 6'6" medium light, fast action Abu Garcia Vengence spinning rod for $25, the rod retails for $50. That rod with your present reel will be a better combo for fishing lighters baits and finesse presentations. The doesn't side to what you are using now is you have lack of feel, and while it may not seem like it to use, the shorter, medium light power rod will balance better with your small reel and make a world of difference in casting and feeling what is going on with your lures as you will be able to feel the difference between a light bite and your bait hitting a rock or limb.

That is a size 15 reel, you need at least a 2500 for a 3/8oz bait. You set up is unbalanced by a lot, you have a reel that is considered light on a MH rod with 10# braid, if you throw a 3/8oz spinnerbait or chatterbait with it for any length of time you'll wear the gears out as it isn't meant for that. A 3/8oz spinnerbait or chatterbait will be best on a medium to medium heavy bait casting rod with any 50 or 100 size casting reel, for spinning it should be at least a 25 or 2500 but a 30 or 3000 size would be the better option. The 7' medium heavy, fast action rod is fine, and when you want to know if a spinning reel is going to be right, take a look at the line capacity, if the reel holds less than 100 yards of 8lb line it is going to be a light action reel meant to be used on light to medium light spinning rods. So stick with smaller stuff until you get a reel capable of handling larger stuff, I would not exceed 1/4oz for any bait with that reel.