primetime

Rebel pop'r in all 3 sizes, Rapala Skitter pop for lighter line River 2 sea has one I like, bubble pop I think its called. Sometimes I think that if Bass are hitting topwater, accurate casts and cadence, size is more important than the brand you use. I have had some of my best days throwing the bass pro poppers & old xcalibur spit n Image. I have plenty of confidence with the Rebel or rapala.

I find if I slow down, make accurate casts, focus on really picking an area apart and experimenting with different retrieves is key. I would think it is hard to beat plastics, and if deeper water, a carolina rig is not a bad idea to locate fish, and then you can modify the presentation. 7" Stick worms are fantastic and will get more strikes from smaller fish than you would expect. Plus they cast a mile & give fish a different look. You can use a weighted hook in deeper water or add a small bullet weight that slides. 10-12" Ribbon tails like culprits or power worms, Magnum trick worms, and the classic BPS curly tail worm in 9" up to 14"...Black blue tail in stained water tough to beat, but green pumpkin, watermelons always a good choice. Flukes are a great option as well, the magnum size is essentially the size of the 7" stick o. Big bass are hard to catch, I find slowing down once I find a good area helps, and sometimes if everyone is targeting big fish, you may want to downsize to the same plastics in 4-6" range. Shaky heads and split shot worms catch big fish. I am not confident in my deep cranking skills, but I find fishing a Carolina rig, or simply a split shot rig/mogo rig is plenty effective, its not boring if catching fish, and if c-rigging a fluke, you can work it faster to get it to dart and then pause if you hit something. Big fluke on a jighead is not a bad idea either.....

I have 2 older ones with the metal bills, silver long billed rogue, but I have never used it. I never seem to do well with deep diving suspenders, not sure I have the patience. I know alot of people consider Rebel "Cheap" but I have plenty of Rebel lures and they all seem to catch fish, I would imagine people still throw those spoon bills. They aren't the prettiest lures, thats for sure, but not sure that makes a difference. I do like the suspending rogue cause it stays shallow, and I always carry the jointed Rebel minnow. Something about the clown colored Rogue in muddy water....I imagine the deeper model would work well bumping the bottom.

The Original Floating Minnow & Jointed minnows(great wake bait) are probably my best producing hard baits for lighter line, spinning gear, both as topwaters, wake baits, and cranking. I love to throw the 05 size when water is clear or bass are feeding on newly hatched fry, sometimes the tiny 1.5" original floater is the best way to get bites when nothing is happening. Some of the natural patterns like perch, pike, rainbow trout seem to work best at times. For extra flash in stained water, the Flat Rap floating minnow in chart/orange belly in both smaller and big size is a good change of pace as it floats much slower, casts easier, and has a different roll with flat sides. In warmer weather, a small floater with fast twitches or simply burning and killing, will generate aggressive strikes. The X-Rap is another classic which works all year long. Then the countdown Minnow is one of the best hardbaits, I am convinced more people use them and just do not talk about them.

I just purchased my first blade baits on my last order for cold deep water. I picked up a couple of the Johnson Thin fish versions to try, but usually I tend to use the Mann's little george if I have a clean bottom. I am working on my deep water skills, and have caught fish over the years on the little george, so I have confidence in it, But I plan to start playing around with blade baits as I know for sure they catch fish, Just seem to always catch weeds if any are around.....

I like the Johnson Sprite Spoons and Little Cleo style spoons for a casting/flutter spoon, but I feel the most versatile is the Kastmaster style spoon which can be jigged or used as a flutter spoon depending on the weight. I ordered a bunch from Bass Pro shops which were the Cabela's brand, they were only $1.99 in good mix of colors, dressed treble, but the hook seems kind of cheap. I just swap out the treble hook, but they have a good mix of sizes from 1/16 up to an ounce. For a jigging spoon, I use a lindy rattle spoon for a small profile and light, the Luhr jensen crippled herring which is a small bait for 1/2 ounce, and of course the Hopkins style/Cordell style jigging spoons. I used to fish spoons more up North, but am planning on using them in deeper water this year. I can't see spending $10 for a spoon, especially the bigger ones like the Ben Parker spoon etc...BPS and Strike King have a good one for the money. I feel once you go over 3/4 I would think a spoon in this style works best as you get the flutter and you can jig it since its so heavy and without current, you wouldn't need something like a slab spoon to fish it vertical...... I never use big spoons over 3/8 even in deeper water. I tend to get most strikes when it falls, or when sitting on bottom. I use them more in saltwater, but guys who put the time in down here, catch good quality fish using big spoons offshore all year long. I think BPS has over 300 spoons in there lineup, and some of the saltwater models are less expensive and plenty good like a crocodile spoon.

I would never go fishing without the original floaters, and one Husky Jerk and Xrap. I have confidence in Rapala lures because they are the first ones I ever used when I started fishing. I would also get the Countdown Jerkbait, they flat out catch fish, especially the smaller sizes....

I believe they will all catch fish if used at the right time and place. The Berkley line of lures seems to be a good value, just like all the products they make. They have been doing it right from Rods, line, soft baits and hard baits are all good looking baits. I have a wild thing which I like, Its the one that looks similar to the Rapala DT THug which is a crank I always liked. Really aggressive action, may be the Pitbull,not exactly sure but I always carry the 2 I have.

I have used them and use the hook that comes in the package. The Ribbit double hooks are the only double hooks I buy. I prefer a single hook but never tried it on the floating Ribbits, I still use the Red Zoom Horny toad hooks on all my toads, the red hooks are my favorite. Seems to help. The few times I have used the top toads, my hook up rate was not great, not sure if it is the bait or just user error at the time. I have landed 2 fish on them, both over 4lbs, so they definitely get strikes, just have not used them enough to say if it is as good for hook up ratio as the regular Ribbits, Horny Toads, Gambler Toad. I used to use the Larew floating toad....3 legged toad I think it was called? They worked great, tore easily, but is only floating model I ever had confidence in as easy to penetrate.

I used to fish the 4" culprit Ribbon tails when they made them growing up and they saved many days. I still use a split shot rig, or light c-rig without a bead or swivel, kind of a mojo rig and use the zoom 4" ribbon tail, bps squirmin worm black blue tail in 4", it looks more like 3", and the small Roboworm curly taills are fantastic, a worm I just discovered recently. I feel like a small 4" senko or sluggo, finesse worm, slider worm, dream shot etc....will always get bit if you put it on the right weight and fish it at the right speed and depth....In winter time when bites are tough, the split shot rig with a small worm will work in deep water, shallow, and I don't find slowly dragging a worm boring....Just as exciting to me as cranking a shad rap...More productive most of the time and more versatile. a light darter head 1/16 on a small finesse worm is deadly as it falls through the water and flutters. I like putting the TRd on a darter head, or slider head, has a different action on the drop that works. 3-4" grub will always catch fish as well and you can fish them all year round and get bit. I would never leave to go fishing without a Medium light spinning rod with 8lb test.....

One of my favorite ways to fish ponds in the winter, without having to fish as slow, is to rig a 4" sluggo or one of the smaller zoom flukes on a 1/16 oz darter head with open hook or use one with a weed guard, although I don't like weed guards. Usually once you find one fish, you will be able to catch more in the same area. I like to cast it on light spinning tackle, and let it slowly flutter to bottom, then let it soak for a bit, and just slowly lift and drop and then pay attention when you get a strike, either while sitting on bottom, a foot or two off when lifting or dropping etc.... If I want to stay mostly on bottom, I will simply throw on a small split shot, or just rig up a small bullet weight with two bobber stops and then just slowly reel or twitch a small 4" stick worm, zoom finesse worm, or a great bait in ponds is the small Zoom critter craws. Of course a Ned rig and small worm or craw will always work. Same with a finesse swimbait. I would also think a light wacky rig would work well, or simply fish a senko slow with or without weight. Casting and slowly reeling a grub on a light jib head or texas rig is never a bad idea. Seems to work all year round. Sometimes pond fish will get more aggressive in the afternoon if sunny, will be able to actually fish a bit faster than you think.....

Ok Thanks. Maybe I will downsize the 1 ounce, I was going heavier to force myself to slow down, and not add in as much action which I have a habit of doing...I realized the last time I was out that I need to bring a 7'11 rod for using a long leader in the 4'5' range which is not easy to cast.....Also added a bobber stop in front of the weight since it was hitting my tip and causing issues casting while sliding. I usually stay away from alot of noise, I guess for me, 20' is deep so I am thinking I need extra sound. I forget that the water is cleaner down below....Thanks

I was looking to get some opinions of the best way to rig a c-rig for deeper water. I still do not trust my deep cranking skills, so I mainly use a C-rig when fishing deep to cover water, and get bites which the C-rig seems to do for me especially in the winter time. I was wondering what people use for a main line (Braid, Fluoro, Mono) and also leader, if you use brass, lead or tungsten, clackers, beads etc... I have been using lead and brass with a glass bead, or sometimes I will take 2 half ounce tungsten weights and rig them back to back for more sound instead. I never have gotten into clackers, so curious as to how you would approach a deep water, cold c-rig, where bottom is mainly hard, some rock,so with an ounce of weight, I am wondering if Fluoro is a better main line in say 20-25lb test to avoid breakoffs since the main line takes a beating with the weights digging into the bottom, getting frayed....I am fishing an area with more rock than I normally encounter. I am kind of thinking that maybe the sound of Tungsten is better? I rarely have any issues feeling my weight since I can feel bottom pretty good with an ounce. I was using 40lb braid main line with 15-20lb Mono leader so it floats. I have noticed braid often frays, and I stopped using tungsten thinking that was the issue, but maybe Tungsten is better if paired with Fluoro main line since you are basically fishing the weight and it is more abrasion resistant. Or is breaking off some weights due to fraying just part of the deal? Any favorite cold water bait suggestions appreciated as well. I always stick to senko or fluke style bait, but recently started doing well with the Pit Boss. In stained water, anyone go with small baits like a 3" finesse craw?

I have an older Pflueger President casting reel that is 6:1 I was thinking about pairing it with. It is a bit heavy, but It's been one of my favorite reels. I may pair it with the Okuma Citrix in 6:1 which has just been sitting in a box for a few years. I guess it all depends on how heavy or light the rod is. I have a bunch of reels I can put on it from really light to heavy in bigger sizes. I was thinking about getting a lower gear ratio since most of my reels are 6:1 and higher. I would get a 5:1 if I can find one on sale, but most concerned with getting a rod with the right action and bend. I tend to always use rods that are too stiff.

I was looking to get some opinions of the best way to rig a c-rig for deeper water. I still do not trust my deep cranking skills, so I mainly use a C-rig when fishing deep to cover water, and get bites which the C-rig seems to do for me especially in the winter time. I was wondering what people use for a main line (Braid, Fluoro, Mono) and also leader, if you use brass, lead or tungsten, clackers, beads etc... I have been using lead and brass with a glass bead, or sometimes I will take 2 half ounce tungsten weights and rig them back to back for more sound instead. I never have gotten into clackers, so curious as to how you would approach a deep water, cold c-rig, where bottom is mainly hard, some rock,so with an ounce of weight, I am wondering if Fluoro is a better main line in say 20-25lb test to avoid breakoffs since the main line takes a beating with the weights digging into the bottom, getting frayed....I am fishing an area with more rock than I normally encounter. I am kind of thinking that maybe the sound of Tungsten is better? I rarely have any issues feeling my weight since I can feel bottom pretty good with an ounce. I was using 40lb braid main line with 15-20lb Mono leader so it floats. I have noticed braid often frays, and I stopped using tungsten thinking that was the issue, but maybe Tungsten is better if paired with Fluoro main line since you are basically fishing the weight and it is more abrasion resistant. Or is breaking off some weights due to fraying just part of the deal? Any favorite cold water bait suggestions appreciated as well. I always stick to senko or fluke style bait, but recently started doing well with the Pit Boss. In stained water, anyone go with small baits like a 3" finesse craw?

I have a bubble walker in the smaller size, and I have done well with it when I throw it. I ordered a clear ghost pattern, so when I have clear water, I throw it, and it is a good lure that produces for sure. It looks just like the Megabass version, and does have awesome action. I like most of the River2sea lures I have tried. I have been planning on getting the larger size, for $10, I think it is a good value.

I generally stick to a basic flat white colored bait overcast days, Chrome on sunny days, and then black in dark water, but I really like two tone colors in stained water like the chart and white or chart/black spooks....Something about chartruese on a topwater that seems to work in stained water..... I also like some orange on the bottom of a topwater when fishing shallow or around bluegill, pre-spawn, fall....I will often just add some orange to the bottom sides with a marker or few spots on the belly. I know the theory is fish only see the bottom of the bait, but I catch more fish on a baby bass colored torpedo than any of the other colors....The bottom is white, but it rolls on its side at times, so I wonder if it's the green on the sides, or just maybe I have more confidence in that color. I deviate a bit depending on type of lures, but if I am fishing a floating jerkbait mainly as a topwater, I feel like the Bomber Bengal Tiger color seems to work best in any water condition. The combination of silver flash, gold and brown, some orange seems to be the ticket bright or overcast. Kind of funny, in Saltwater down here, Red head with white body topwaters and jerkbaits are the standard safe choice like green pumpkin in plastics, yet I have never done well with them for Bass. I think alot of it has to do with when I experiment with colors...Usually at times when I am not catching anything, so hard to make a legit comparison. Color does matter when it matters. I have had a few days where the exact same lure in a different color makes a big difference, but more times than not, I think alot of it is confidence. Kind of like a pink worm. I never use them, do not have confidence in them, but have seen them work for others. I try not to overthink color, but of course I like to make sure I buy plenty of funky colors just in case....For every bait or lure I like.....Buying lures & experimenting is half the fun for me.

I will have to look at Tackle Warehouse. They are the only website I like to order rods from without seeing or feeling them since they do a great job of descriptions and the reviews are always helpful. I like your line of thinking....Get a better quality rod like a Dobyns on sale for $95. I will check it out. Thanks

I have some of the megastrike shaky heads and they will get the job done. I have a bunch of brands from Owner with the screw lock (Not my favorite, but I like the really light ones they make with a big hook) and last year found some Missle Warlock shaky jigs on clearance, and I really like them. I also like the Yum Pumpkin head, and VMC makes a good one as well. I do have a favorite worm that I purchased on clearance from TW a few years ago, and It seems to work better for me than any other straight tailed worm...The Big Bite Squirrel tail worm. Something about that bulb on the tail and the fat to thin taper seems to generate more strikes. I also really like using the Zoom Curly tailed shaky worms. For the price, its tough to beat the Zoom finesse worms, but then again, a senko or Rib snake are 2 great worms that work well on any rig. Kut Tail worm, I use the BPS version which are inexpensive and come heavily salted. I also like to throw a baby brush hog on a shaky rig, or a chigger craw, or Strike King Rage craw, menace etc.

I use the Zoom Fluke as a trailer on Chatterbaits but for some reason never put one on a swim jig but I am sure it would work. It gives the bait a unique action...I rig the flukes upside down when rigging them as a trailer. I actually rig all my swimbaits upside down as well. Seems to work better for me. I fish the Fluke on Open Jigheads which would essentially be a swim jig without the trailer, I am sure it would look good while sinking and pausing. I experiment with all types of trailers, sometimes I have good results rigging a straight tail worm, so never hurts to give fish a new look.

I recently broke my cranking rod in my door, and really do not want to spend more than say $50-$75. Does Berkley make a rod that would work well for cranking maybe in the lighting series? I was thinking about the BPS crankin' stick, but wondering if anyone has a suggestion for something inexpensive but will get the job done. I am open to any brand, just need something with the right action. I figure I will get one this week while all the Black Friday sales are going on, and if something is on sale for a great deal, I would spend $100 if necessary. I mainly throw rattle traps and square bills, and if I throw deep cranks, I have never gone heavier than the 6xd, so something that can maybe do 1/4-3/4....Med to Med Heavy? I know the power and weight is different for all brands. Thanks in advance. I am open to glass if it is a better option.

Thats a nice rod and reel set up which will do it's job well. I like using 15-20lb braid on spinning reels over 10lb since I find the larger diameter braid in the 4-6lb test mono size is easier for me with knots, and seems to handle the wind better as well. I find that 10lb braid is too thin & frustrates me with twists & knots. FLuoro leader in 6 or 8 is perfect for what you are looking to do. I have tried using yellow braid in the past to line watch easier, but I have always felt I had less strikes. Even with a 3-4' leader, I just feel the line is easy for fish to see. Maybe just a confidence thing, but I prefer going with green. I can still see it well as it floats, and seems for natural if using shorter leaders.

I would certainly save a few crankbaits and keep most of your lipless cranks....Plus they both work well in Saltwater as well....Especially the lipless cranks since they work great in saltwater and in weeds. I find most bass fishing lures interchangeable for saltwater whether Stripers, Snook, Reds etc....Just need to make sure the hooks are strong enough when fishing saltwater. Chatterbaits are easier to fish in weeds most of the time, but sometimes ripping a trap is tough to beat.

This was probably the biggest bass through the Ice. For some reason, on certain Northern Lakes and ponds, you can actually catch bigger bass through the Ice, it seems to be the ones that are choked out with weeds during the year and tough to fish...Deep water is always a plus, and patience is key...If you tip a small Ice Fishing Jig with a minnow to cheat a little bit, it often helps get the action going....Bass still feed in the coldest of cold.... I used to catch good sized bass just before or after ice out fishing small grubs on jig heads like the BPS Spring grub. Not sure why, but that grub excels in cold water, has a different profile and action....The grub has rings in it, that may help, for color I have always used baitfish colors, water is clear so more natural the better. Motor oil with green fleck in 2" or 3" spring grub is a grub that nobody seems to ever use or talk about, but the tail is different, shape, and really no other bait I can think of that is similar.....

small finesse worms with either a really like worm weight, weightless, or light darter head open hook with a small Fluke Jr. or 3-4" curly tail grub. A great lure that flat out works is the crappie sized blakemore road runner when its cold. They are great form the shore,I like the ones with the maribou hair as opposed to a plastic. A Ned Rig, or shaky head, or slowly reeled split shot rig with a small stick worm or trick worm will catch fish all year. Same with a rapala shad rap. When it gets cold, I like to use plastics with less action if fishing bottom contact. a Craw like the Zoom Critter craw will work well. put it behind a jig, or behind a worm weight or split shot and it will get bit if fished slowly.....Zoom Critter craws are a really good soft bait, just not easy to find in stores. Light line, smaller baits...From shore in winter will catch bass, small crappie tubes like the bitsy tubes are also really good. Usually just need to fish slowly. I believe lighter line will always generate more strikes, especially in the cold,so if you can use 4lb test or 6, you will be at an advantage for getting more action. You can catch big bass through the Ice as well....I have a picture of a really good bass in my profile through the Ice in NY a few years ago, my brother lives in CT now, and he catches big bass through the ice on a regular basis. Almost catches bigger fish through the ice consistently than any other time. Kind of crazy, He uses alot of streamers and flies, but we have caught them on small jigging spoons and roadrunners, 1" panfish soft baits etc.. This Bass was last year.....Believe it was in a lake near Candlewood.