Hanover_Yakker

If you're still in the market, I would like to suggest something different than everyone else. Take a look at Bull Bay Rods Tactical AR-15 series of rods available in both spinning and casting. These rods are phenomenal and the only brand I trust anymore. I've had all the traditional off the shelf consumer rods (Abu Garcia, Daiwa, Duckett, Shimano, St. Croix and a couple hi end Daiwas and Powells), and I sold them all and now use BBR exclusively. I am not sponsored by them nor do I receive any compensation or discounts for any referrals or sales I generate. I'm actually ordering another one in the same specs you are looking at - a 7'0"-7'2" MH/Fast casting rod with Microwave microguides. $165 with a lifetime warranty! Hand made right here in the good old USA - Deland, FL. Give them a look!

I had a custom flipping rod made for me - being in a kayak affords me the ability to shorten my rod length being closer to the water. Rod of choice was a Bull Bay Rods 7'2" H/XF casting rod paired with a Revo Inshore spooled with 50lb Sunline FX2 braid. The 22lb of drag on the Revo Inshore enables me to pitch and flip into the heaviest of cover with little to no fear of breaking off. If the fish gets hung up, I just paddle up and go get him/her!

I would recommend pool noodles and other forms of closed cell foam. You can cut and shape it to fit your hull shape. Once installed, it also serves as a noise deadening barrier and helps hold your battery box in place. With a Pelican style container, you also will realize that the weight of the battery box itself will help keep it fairly motionless. You can also place those cabinet door bumpers with the adhesive backs on them to act as stoppers as well to hold the box in place. Home Depot and Lowes are you friends here because you can walk around and get some ideas.

Sorry for your loss - thoughts and prayers for your family!

Ballast and trim are key factors to keep in mind when deciding on a location in your hull. I prefer to keep mine in the bow area, since most weight in a kayak is located in the center and rear. While I now use a Hobie specific battery holder, I started with a simple Pelican case and placed it in the bow area of my first two kayaks.

So here's a couple points to ponder............. Do we have actual definitive evidence of when this occurred? As in when the artificial fish attractors were placed? Now, once you have that information, compare it to when the Classic location was disclosed to the BASS competitors? Did he place the fish attractors before or after that date? Until you know the specifics of when the event happened, you run the risk of rendering an opinion without complete information. For all we know, he could have placed those attractors with the SCDNR some time ago as a part of a state funded conservation project. Just some food for thought.....

Action is definitely not an issue with the PowerTeam Lures Craw D'oeuvre, Texas Rig Jig or even the Diesel Craw. The baits are neutrally buoyant, so even the slightest twitch of the line or current movement will impart action from the appendages like a natural craw would.

Price range?

My tastes really vary throughout the day depending upon how ticked off my job/boss make me..... So it can be easy going and fun like this.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLqQEy84qow Most of the day I've got this stuck in my head..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfVGCrQdw08 But anytime I get rudely interrupted, I can flip the switch and get real amped.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7EQlfprV9E

Are you looking for action or still? Action POV cams are popping up all over, but the actual "hero shots" can be accomplished with other options. I use an Olympus Tough 820 - waterproof, 12mp, 720p HD recording and has the ability to auto focus and zoom at a price point that is nearly 60-70% cheaper than a GoPro 3, 3+, 4 ,etc...... I simply set mine on a mount and use the LCD screen to preview the angle and zoom before I launch that way when I turn it on I know it is set at the right angle. I can always crop and resize the photo once I download it. The auto focus feature is a lifesaver especially in a kayak, but may not be as critical in a boat.

Shhhhhhhh!!!!!

PowerTeam Lures 4.8" Swinging Hammer as the primary and the 4.5" Curly Tail Grubs or 3.6 JP Hammershads as the teasers. The Swinging Hammer has the best tail action and thump I have ever used in a soft plastic swimbait.

Gotta love a chunky smallmouth fight on the end of your line! Nice fish!

Kayaks fit the bill - you should keep them in mind! Much more affordable, no insurance, no property tax, no maintenance, no special trailers and your fishing equipment is less technique specific since you can get literally on top of the fish. In other words, you don't need a 7'6" EX flipping rod. A normal 7'0" MH/Fast rod works fine, because you can paddle right up on top of the fish if he gets hung up and grab him. Not always possible in a jon boat when it comes to laydowns and other standing timber.

Which lake? NAPS by chance? Even though the power plant lakes have warmer water, you still need to dress for the weather conditions as well. Rule of thumb I've always been taught is the rule of 120. If the water and air temp combined is less than 120 degrees, then you should be wearing waterproof and insulating clothing. I'm actually heading out to NAPS myself tomorrow in case you are around. My cold water fishing is all about layering with the proper clothing/gear. Hope this helps: Base layer - wicking socks, tops and bottoms (cheap doesn't cut it here - think UnderArmour Cold Gear, Duofold, etc. - not cotton!) Insulating layer - fleece tops and bottoms (you can save some money here) and high quality wool socks (WigWam, etc) Waterproof layer - breathable waders w/ wading belt and neoprene booties paired with a splash top with gasket seals at the cuffs and neck. I also use a drysuit which is a one piece but either approach works. Head - wool cap Hands - couple pairs of fleece gloves and change out once they get wet. Boots - if you're using the wader approach with Neoprene booties, then a pair of crocs or sandals is sufficient, but if you are using a dry suit, then a pair of launch socks/boots will be needed to avoid tearing the drysuit foot area. Extra items - Thermacare heated gel packs and hand warmer packs are life savers. If your feet or hands are cold, you will be miserable. Some folks even carry ski masks if it's going to be windy. The biggest mistake I see people make is that they wear cotton or jean material. Cotton kills in cold water - the material clings to your skin and doesn't dry leading to a dangerous situation of hypothermia. Jeans are also a big no-no, because they too are cotton but also significantly heavier when wet. As far as gear, keep it simple - 2 rods (1 spinning, 1 casting). Blade baits, spoons, suspending jerk baits, shakey heads and jig-n-craws are normal. Even though the power plant lakes are warmer, the water temps fall off the farther away from the discharge you get. I know at NAPS, the water temps drop into the low 50's right past the first bridge into the second pool and Dike 2. As you get closer to Dike 3, the water temps are in the 40's. I'll be in pool 1 near Dike 1 most likely and the surrounding docks. If you're out tomorrow, just look for a guy pedaling about with a lime green PFD on and hi-vis flag blowing in the breeze. I'm easy to spot on the water!

Welcome aboard!

I only use Tactical Anglers Power Clips - no issues with any grass snags and quick change capability to adjust to changing conditions, depths or colors when you are dialing in the bite. I use them in fresh and salt water. http://tacticalanglers.com/

Whatever hull you choose should fit your fishing style - get some seat time, go to some demo days and take your time making your decision! Personally, I prefer the safety of a sit on top kayak hull, but your waters and fishing style/needs may dictate otherwise. Good luck and keep us posted on your ultimate decision! You could say that I'm a little biased towards Hobie, but I also have seat time in Natives, Ocean Kayaks, Wilderness Systems and Jacksons. Kayaks and canoes are awesome tools to get you closer to the fish!

Those are three very different hulls and will have different paddling, stability and handling characteristics. Seat time/water time is the only true judge of which one is right for your fishing style. Assess your style, focus on what you do 70-80% of the time and pick the kayak hull that fits that style. The remaining 20-25% can be handled typically in the same hull just not too frequently without some adjustments on your part.

PowerTeam Lures Craw D'oeuvre is the best all around craw bait I have used in the last 5 years, and I have tried them all. It excels as a stand alone bait and as a jig trailer. FWIW, one color in particular was created specifically for your state but excels in other waters including here in VA - the Susky Slayer. If you're looking for a beefier profile, the Texas Rig Jig is a nice one to consider. You can texas rig it alone or put it on a skirted jig for a beefier profile. They also have a couple other different profile craws to consider: the Conviction Craw and the Diesel Craw. Lastly, they offer the Bully Grass Devil as a punch style craw. Let me know if you want some more info. I have an inside scoop

Welcome aboard!

I started with a Stohlquist Fisherman PFD and was pleased for the first four-five years, but it started to wear out. I recently switched over to the Astral Ronny Fisher PFD and am very pleased with the overall comfort and storage capabilities. It is a little pricey ($159 at ARC) given that it is new, but a PFD is not something you want to try and "settle" for something. I prefer not to carry to many items in my PFD, so my needs may vary from yours. I like the large openings for your arms/arm movement/rotation. The full vented back is a nice feature that many PFDS do not have. I basically carry a safety whistle clipped to the front and an NRS River Knife attached to the front pouch. Inside the right hand storage pocket, I have three items - my fishing license in a sealed Ziploc storage bag, a pair of pliers and a Boomerang SNIP tool for cutting leader and braid. The left hand storage pocket is for my phone. Simple and functional. It also is the high-vis green version with the rain hood/safety hood. There are plenty of lower end models to try - BPS, Dick's SG, West Marine, etc all have some version of a type III PFD. The only way to know if you'll like it is to try it on and walk around with it - perhaps even sitting in a kayak seat and mimicking the casting motion. Only then will you be able to render a true opinion on whether the PFD will fit and will be comfortable in your kayak seat and during your fishing outings. I'm on the water for 6-10 hours at a time, so it has to be comfortable for me. Hope that helps you some.

It is an awesome movie - for those of us that have served, it hits home and sometimes a little hard. For those that have never served, this only gives you a smidgeon of insight into "the life". It will be a movie I will always remember and will be added to my Blu-Ray collection once released.

Yes it does, the new Vantage CT. All Hobie kayaks (excluding the inflatable series) in the Mirage Drive lineup now have both the Vantage CT seat and the new GT (glide Technology) on the drives themselves (10% efficiency increase and lighter).

Finally, here is the second part of my Hobie flotilla that I was able to get rigged up this past week, the 2015 Hobie Outback. I rigged her with a Lowrance ELITE-5 CHIRP, a couple RAM ZOOKA Tube rod holders and the Power-Pole Micro Shallow Water Anchor.