bazzelite19

Should be a good all around pitching rod for moderate to heavy cover. Maybe not so much for punching thick grass but it would work in lighter duty grass. If it has some tip action would be a good 5" to 6" swimbait, 3/8- 5/8 oz spinnerbaits and chatterbaits. Maybe a good buzz bait and general purpose structure rod for 1/2 oz football jigs and Carolina rigs.

Just look for fry gaurders or any fry pods. Thats a obvious sign of success. If it's 1.5 feet vis my guess is they can spawn a few feet out of that range putting max spawn depth around maybe 4-6 foot. Thats probably enough depth to safely spawn even if the water rises some. I don't know how much your water has changed so hard to tell. Bass have been known to spawn into July even in the midwest so likely a bunch will successfully spawn at some point. Fluctuating water and cold is nothing new to bass.

If there's a few good size creek arms(tributaries) pick a larger sized one and start at the first point entering the creek. Start with a 5/16-3/8 oz spinnerbait, squarebill crank, or medium runner to cover water. Work your way back casting to any docks, rocks, or wood like lay down trees, bushes, or overhanging trees. Smaller pockets, cuts, or drains from rain runoff can be good. Always be feeling for hard bottom areas with rock or mussels. This is why a crankbait is good, you can feel the bottom content well. Its a amazing transmission lure. Running the bank is a solid way to catch bass in most lakes. Once you catch a fish on a moving bait just slow down and throw a jig or weightless senko. The key is not only in your lure but how you fish and how well you can feel for what it is doing.

The smaller fishes spiny dorsal fins got stuck in its mouth so it was unable to be spit out. Then from their the bigger bass couldnt properly ventilate its gills so it probably died from lack of oxygen well before starvation .

Ive caught bass at night on hot dogs as well as fresh cut bluegill so never say never. The one i caught one cut bluegill was a giant 7 pounder also while I was targeting catfish. Ive seen it more then enough times

Definitely ive caught a lot of fish at night on a chatterbait, popping frog, and a buzzbait. Squarebill cranks work too something big like a manns c-4. Another good bait is a texas rigged rage craw or rage lobster. Something with flapper claws like that. They've bitten chartreuse, white, black, black and blue, even firetiger for me at night. The important part is a slow, steady cadence so the bass can track it. Also consider scented gel and rattles. The gel or jelly types act like a lube so baits slip through cover. In stained water at night lots of bass like to root around the bank line in really shallow water sometimes with their fins sticking out. In really clear water you can keep fishing just like you would in the day. The warmer it gets the better the night bite. Most bass, around 80% feed after dark once water temps exceed 80f. This reduces stress from lowering oxygen levels in warming water.

Ive had my most intense blowups working a frog so hard that your forrarms would be burning after a few cast. As fast as you can chop the handle and chug that frog. The big ones match the aggressive retrieve with a equally as aggressive strike. Though that usuallu works best in warm water. I dont see very many work a frog that violent which is why I think it works. And I had that most recent experience at a public lake with steady pressure

Some of the biggest fish I remember catching was on a ; PB: 3/8 oz brown jig with craw trailer. Dont even know what it weighed. Other big ones I remember 7+ lbs came on a storm swimbait, in-line spinner, a spro frog and a ribbontail worm.

You get more vibrations with a single because with a tandem style the leading blade displaces water first, leaving the trailing blade to 'draft' if you will. One advantage of tandem blades is coming through cover. If one blade stops the other will likely continue keeping the bait upright, and out of snags. Just experiment anf have fun with it. Most times the same bass would hit a Colorado OR a tandem willow on the same day. The important part is your presentation and how you present it mostly. Try willow blades in stained water on a sunny day. Or even in murky water. Sometimes the flash is overbearing so you may want a indiana version. Thats the whole fun of bass fishing os trying new options out and piecing the puzzle together. On a final note it seems like bass really like double willows in any water condition. And ive caught bass in clear water with a black spinnerbait and a Colorado blade which everyone thinks is only for muddy water. Most times I use a tandem spinnerbait; #2 Colorado front/#4 willow back in a chartreuse and white combo or some shad pattern. I also use black spinnerbait with a double Colorado or single #7 Colorado at night or in the mud.

In a shallow lake with max depths of 15 foot then you'll likely find them at the deepest point. But a deeper lake not really so. You can still catch them in less then 10 foot all year long most places. Unless the water is frozen the warmest water isnt necessarily in the deepest water. 39 is the temp you wanna notice. Anything warmer (or cooler between 39 and 32) is actually going to rise because its less dense. So if its not froze the warmer water will actually be toward shallower water, where youll want to hit shallower structure. It goes back to a saying - with winds warmer then the water temp head shallower, with colder winds (or air in general) go deeper.

If you're fishing a smaller lake flatheads can be problematic because they will actually eat the bass themselves. It depends on the size of the water. Most phenomenal bass lakes in the country have lots of large predatory cats but if theyre 175000 acres it wont matter because the sheer size. The only times they will have noticeable impacts is on places less then maybe 100 acres. Which is just a guess but seems correct. But no matter the size lake- the same lake will have more bass in it without flatheads then with. The other part of this is a flathead that size would easily take more then a decade to grow that size so killing it doesnt seem right. Thats what the smaller "eater" cats are for. Plus they have less pcbs, Mercury, lead, etc. In their tissue.

If you're hitting the banks stained water is your friend. Stained would be anywhere from 8"-36", 24 inches is about just right. That way the bass are more likely to be position shallow closer to the bank because light penetration doesnt go as far. Everything in nature needs the sun especially plants to produce oxygen. In muddy water fish to a max of about 8 foot. In stained a max of 15-20 or so. In clear water the range is far greater. You can catch em in inches of water to 100 foot deep. If theres lots of cover like matted algae on the bank theyll be shallow. Look for lakes that have either vegetation or a healthy green looking tint to the water they usually have the most bass densities.

If the wind is warmer then the water fish shallow. If it's colder then the water then fish deeper. If the ice is thin enough you can punch through it? I think ive tried that a few times though it could be a little sketchy. When the lakes thay cold thr major factor is water clarity; if its clear you can catch em. Everyone knowd cold muddy water is tough as a boot. If you really are a fisherman theres no confusion thatll keep you off the water. Go rip there lips

Starting at a young age. It seems if you start young you gain a serious passion for it and it just sticks with you. I'm almost 30 now and ive fished my whole life, and will fish the rest of my life for sure.

No it wouldnt really be the same, maybe some but in a nutshell northern strain largies are much more apt to bite down into the mid40s or cooler. Florida strain like much warmer water around 55+. Smallmouths/spots can be had in much cooler temps. In places the lake varely freeze bass will react much quicker to warmth. Places that stay froze will see the same patterns usually until thaw out.

You can give the best bait to a poor fisherman and he will get beat by a good angler with the worst bait most times. Just learning how to cast consistently and accurately and how to reel in bass and set the hook with ANY lure goes a long way. Theres no way to build skill without the proper fundamentals . Dont make it to complicated, pick out a x-rap or rogue and just start chunking it.

Nothing wrong with that. Slot limits in that range are a good thing

17# line is a good castable/strong test rating. I like mono because it seems to cast more buzzers easily for me. Around grass, braid is awesome. For ploppers braid is the way to go as it keeps them up and running. Consider a 2-3 foot leader in clearer water/ pressured areas. If yoh are running braid you don't necessarily need a broomstick. Something like a medium heavy with a softish tip section should do fine. If its to stiff youll backlash the braid easier.

The lews bb1 is specific made for crankin. It lacks a anti-reverse like the original. This increases casting distance and the ability to feel what your plug is doing. The ipt is 21" which is optimum for resistance baits. For shallower cranks and traps a 6:1 reel is often more effecient. You don't really need that much torque up shallow. Larger shallow plugs like a kvd 4.0 squarelip may be easier to reel with a 5:1 gearing. The only time a 7:1 would really be needed is for maybe ripping or burning lipless crankbait over grass or other cover and flats.

10# braid has a 6# diameter. Thats pretty thin but will cast light lures very easy. If youre around heavier cover consider 15# to 20# braid. With a 6-10 # leader of your choice. You can even tie a 15# leader on if you want to skip around docks and horse fish out. Theres no rule to only using light spider web line. The better the braid the more round and uniform it will be and better casting. Consider trying nanofil which is specific for spinning gear

Im pretty sure he never won a elite event so I dont know why he would even consider saying that.

Whats the deepest youve caught bass in muddy water(8" less vis.)? Do you still fish shallow come winter? Or do do you have a deeper pattern (10'+ fow) that works in the mud? Just curious what some will say. Thanks

I would say late summer and early fall. Ofcourse winter time as well.

Insane. Who actually eats bass anyway? Just wow. Recently we had a flood on my local lake, the water receded some and lying thier in the parking lot was 20 bass all skinned in a pile and thrown thier to rot where everyone walks and drives. Smh atleast throw them OUT into the lake instead of building a dead fish pile in the parking lot. Smh again. Plus the creek limit is only 2 bass. There must have been atleast 10 people there. (DOUBT IT) d**n poachers

The more you do it the more powerful and accurate your wrist will get. I put two fingers above the trigger instead of one. Seems to provide a better fulcrum point and aid in power. The more you practice the better you'll get at any distance. Just because you cant do it at first doesnt mean you cant work up to it. There are many things that are possible to do that dont seem like it at first.