NBR

Anything you put on the boat adds up to it's weight limit be careful you don't exceed the boats weight limit.

I replaced an old 12/24 MG with a 24v MK and I'm very happy with the new one. If I were you and could make the switch without much of a penalty I would do so. You will need a new plug and receptical.

My first boat(used) had a hand control and when I bought a new boat it came with a foot control. At first I didn't like the foot control but after getting used to it I wouldn't go back to hand control.

I replaced a MG with a MK last year and the holes lined right up. Since I went from a 42# to a 67# I did put 2 more mounting holes/bolts in the deck.

I seem to remember that when you are on a 12 v TM setting that the motor pulls from one battery only. My boat came with a 12/24 TM but after a short time I just never ran it on 12 v. What's the point? Run it on 24v but at a lower setting or not as often.

Is the MO River governed by the Coast Guard?

Your set up is normal and should be just fine. I always have a set of jumpers in the boat just in case I, or someone else, has trouble with the cranking motor. Year before last I knew my cranking motor was getting to its last legs but didn't replace it for last years maiden voyage. It fired up the motor and got me up the lake aways but it wouldn't crank the motor for my next run. Good old jumpers got me fired up from the TM batteries; back to the launch and off to buy a new cranking battery. A 3 bank onboard would be handy but you can get by without it by using your portable charger. Don't rely on your big motors alternator to keep the cranking battery charged up. Unless you run at speed a lot it won't. Charge all 3 as soon as you get home! During the winter you should either check the state of charge or charge the batteries from time to time. My boat is garaged and I charge every month. This is where the 3 bank is real handy. I have had a bass type boat for more than 30 years and 90% of the boat problems have had todo with electricity. Never serious but still a nuisance. Wire connections that shake loose, trolling motor plugs that fail. Get yourself a decent voltmeter so you can fix most of the little problems. I carry an extra trolling motor plug in my boat as a just-in-case. I've never needed it but it is there if the need arises. Unless I have neglected the batteries I find they can last 5 years. Getting to the batteries to check and top off water levels is a real pain in my boat almost requiring removing the batteries. I solved this about 3 years ago buy getting one of those automotive water dispensers that lets the water flow into the battery until the water reaches the full point, then it shuts off. I had to go to a few auto supply shops to find one but the $14 or $15 was worth it for convenience.

Ben is right on. All too many over trim. I tuck the motor all the way under and put the throttle to it. After I come out on plane I back the throttle off a bit as I recall back to about 4000rpm's but stay on plane then I start to trim out with just a tap or two at a time. At least with my boat when it is at the proper balance of throttle and trim there is a noise change. I don't know how to describe except to say it is "sweet". When I hit this sweet spot there is no steering torque from that throttle setting to full throttle. Away I go!

Getting up to full charge from your car/truck charging system would depend on how far you are from the water and the vehicule's charging output. I am about 20 minutes from the drive to launch and no way my truck charging system is going to bring the batteries to full charge after a half day fishing let alone a full day.

Kap, I don't quite understand your question since with an on board charger you still have to run power to the boat. If you are talking a solar power generator or one of those that charges the battery while driving to the lake I don't think you could effectively bring TM battery(s) up to snuff with this type of equipment. A real long very heavy duty power cord, putting a cable under ground or a portable generator are likely your best options.

Mine is floor mounted under the rear deck hatch. Letting the air get to it for a few minutes might be helpful but with inboards that have a blower you run the blower for several minutes before cranking. When my boat is out side and I don't want to chance water getting in I open the rear deck and prop the deck cover slightly ajar with a boat cushion so the heat from the charger can escape.

River current doesn't affect battery life but pushing your boat agaist river current draws more power. You can wire two batteries in parrallel (+ to +)and increase the length of time you have suitable power. If you have a 12 volt system do not wire the batteries in series (+ to -) because that doubles the voltage and will fry your TM. Adding batteries adds a lot of weight so be sure you stay under your boats total weight limits for safety.

I have the same thing with my Eagle. As I recall it happens when I hve it set on automatic(seldom) and run into some shallow water with a very soft bottom. I just shut mine off and restart. The suggestion to go to Garmin's web page and try to pick up and instruction book is a very good first step.

Visit the boat shops in your area. They often have boats traded on new rigs or a listing board for individuals selling used boats. I bought my first boat this way and after using it for 7 years sold it for $500 less than I paid for it.

Ideally I would have the same at both locations, if one fails you can move them back and forth. Since ideally rarely happens, I have the higher end on the console. I spend more time locating structure, cover and bait running the big motor. Then I use the front deck locator to keep me in the right position.

Agreed that Bill Dance has a set up location but he still tries to teach a presentation, lure, location or something else. As for holding the fish I don't like the horizontal hold of the bass but think about Charlie Moore who holds the fish the same way while he chit chats or clowns around or lets the fish bounce on the boat deck. In-Fisherman is not to far behind in delayed release.

Use marine silicone that you can get at almost any boat dealer. There may not be much or any difference between the marine and household silicone but few a little extra cost why take the chance. Silicone will last much longer without hardening than butyl, neoprene or any organic chalks.

The first fully rigged boat I bought was used. I kept it for 6 years and fixed a few things but sold it for only $500 less than I paid. The guy I bought it from was a little lax with the soap, water and wax. When you buy a used boat get the motor inspected, crawl under the boat and look for cracks and chips and pay special attention to the transom. My current boat was bought new but they have gotten so pricey my next will likely be used.

Go to carvercovers.com

While the boat builder covers are the best look at carvercovers.com for a semi custom built cover. You can probe around their web site for a cover designed specifically for you boat. I put those heavy(like you would wash your car with) sponges under the cover at the pressure points. I garage my boat when at home and only cover it when I am making long multi day trips so I don't want hundreds of dollars tied up in a cover. If I didn't garage my boat I would surely have a custom cover from the boat builder.

I wouldn't even think about it if I was running a tiller motor!

I agree with Triton Mike. Simpler, probably cheaper and much easier to install a temperature gauge with the probe off the transom.

Is the Minn Kota variable speed and the Motor Guide 5 speed? If so I'd go with the Minn Kota. If not I'd go with the MG.

Your transducer should be able to mount to the TM or they could switch transducers. I all else fails there is a bracket that attaches to the TM shaft that you can buy. The guy that installs you unit should be able to givr you the options. Word of caution, Wat the depth sounder cables when you deploy and stow your TM. Some of the TM's can chop a transduce lead wire right in half.

Ryan, I have attended seminars given by many of the big names in bass fishing, i.e. KVD, Dion Hibdon, Woo Davis, Ike, Shaw Grigsby and on and on. The question about becoming a pro always comes up and to a man they say to get your degree. A business degree would be helpful because if you are a fishing pro you must run your own business. Secondly, you must earn a living while you are building your fishing reputation. I can't remember the exact number but the costs to participate in the major circuits runs over $50,000 annual not including boat and tow rig. Four more years in school is really a short time and softened greatly in you work your way through at a major or small tackle store and fishing T's in the summer and on weekends.