pabassr

Found u-bolts on etrailer. part # CE11416 for $13.99 a pair. going to pick some up for myself.

Found them on-line at etrailer look up guide ons for boat trailer, they show a picture of the u-bolts. They also sell just the u-bolts like is on my trailer for 13.99 pair.

They came with the side bunks I took off the trailer. Home Depot and Lowes only have curved u-bolts, not real u-bolts. If I had foud real u-bolts I would have used them to hold down the unistruts instead of the bolts. I forgot I used the U-bolts from the side bunks. Thanks to Paul (TEAM_DOUGHERTY), for his build on his trailer which I really liked and was inspired to do mine.

Yes they are the ones I got at Amazon for $21 dollars plus shipping. They are just as good as the ones I bought at Dicks Sporting Goods 2 years ago. Only difference is the ones from Amazon have to be assembled. Very easy to assemble. I`m glad I used unstruts on my trailer modification. I used the unistruts for the cross bars for kayaks, because of strength and stiffness with no flex. I mounted the unistruts to trailer using 1/2" dia. bolts thru the holes I drilled into trailer. Then I mounted 2"x4" treated lumber to unistruts also using 1/2" dia. bolts. Next I mounted the j-racks to the treated lumber and unistruts using 5/16" dia. bolts. The bolts that come with the j-racks are 8mm. and are too short for my build. So I 5/16" dia. bolts with washer, lock washer, and lock nuts to be more secure. I`m very pleased with the build, no more lifting kayaks onto roof racks that will save my arms and shoulders.

Here are the pictures of my trailer I modified for kayaks. But still can use as boat trailer as well.

Next time you catch a fish measure the length and the girth. That way you can use the weight calculator in the tools toolbar on top of this page. You`ll have a better idea how much it weighted.

Just got done with it. I will post pictures when ever it stops raining.

Very nice job. How does it work? Is there any thing you would change if you could? I really like the placement of transducer unit, it`s out of the way. The spring on your unit would be life saver if you would hit anything with it. Good Job.

It will take a while to get the hang of it. When you do you`ll be cutting them like a pro. When stretching out the skirt, stretch it out until it almost reaches breaking point, then cut.

The best way to separate the strands is to use clamp on the skirt collar, then take one side of skirt and stretch it out . Then take sharp scissors and cut the skirt slowly, this will pull the strands apart. This is not a fast process. You need to cut skirt slowly. When done on one side of skirt ,do the other side.

If your using a jig, just fish it a little faster. Don`t let it sit on the bottom. Cast it out when you feel it hit the bottom, move the jig with your rod so it won`t get snagged. I was fishing today and that`s how I had to fish, fast Try it you`ll get use to it, and catch more bass then. You can fish any rig this way, just try it.

When windy I use a spinnerbait and a Carolina rig fished fast. Or I`ll use a swim bait.

I`m 6' 210lbs, my boy is about the same.The D10T has a weight capacity of 350lbs. It is extremely stable.

I always look for cheaper alternatives when it comes to lures, especially soft plastics. I bought a mold in December and made a few trailers to try in spring. It proved to be the perfect substitute for the Rage Tail or Speed craw. Creme sells it on their site for $1.99 a bag plus many other soft plastics. SENCOSAM, WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE THE MOLD FOR THE CRAWS? I WOULD LIKE TO GET THAT MOLD FOR MYSELF. Very nice looking jig you have your craw on, did you make the jig also?

Thanks Team_Dougherty I just bought a set of J-racks on Amazon,$21.00 plus shipping,great deal. When the J-racks get delivered to my home,I`ll be putting them on trailer with the other set I have already. I`ll be using superstruts for frame, like on your trailer Thanks for the info and pictures.. Going to get the 15/8"x3/4" superstruts,using u-bolts to hold them to trailer frame. That way if I want to use my 12' boat it will be easy to remove the superstruts. I`ve looked all over internet at different trailer modifications, and found I like yours the best!

Go to tackle underground under soft plastics, you`ll find what you need .

Very nice, I really like your trailer. Been wanting to do this myself on my 12' boat trailer. You got my juices flowing. I`ll be converting trailer to kayak hauler very soon. Will post pictures when done. Just think no more lifting kayaks over my head and onto roof rack. My arms and shoulders thank you. I still have 12' boat,but will make trailer so I can remover bars when not hauling kayaks, to haul my boat.

My son just bought a ascend d10t kayak at bass pro shops today. After doing a lot of research and seeing the actual kayak it it definitely does give you bang for the buck. It is 34" wide 52lbs. The new ascend kayaks are much nicer than they were. We got home and he took it out on the water right away. He had nothing but praise for this kayak. He said it paddles very easy,very stable, and he even stood up in it. Then I tried it and it was everything that he said it was, very stable,easy to paddle tracks very well, I even stood up in it, awesome. I`m very impressed,I have a wilderness systems tarpon kayak,and an emotion stealth kayak which I really like, both kayaks are 30-1/2" wide. The ascend kayaks are great kayaks for a cheaper cost than my other kayaks. My son didn`t have the cash for kayaks like I own, so he went with the ascend D10T sit-on-top 34" wide,which is very impressive.Also the D10T has 6-scupper holes, two in the rear,and two under the seat ,and two up front. Some peoples reviews said seat slides out when paddling, if seat is adjusted right It won`t move. If anyone is thinking of buying these kayaks, I`d say check them out you won`t be disappointed. Check them out for yourself. The price is, $399.00

My 2 favorite is: senco, 3 or 4 inch ones. fluke 3-4 inch ones

On your skirts, I would either redo the skirt using a new collar,or you can repair using wire wrapped ,then twisted to hold the skirt together. The hammered blades give off more flash, as hammered finish displaces the light. When I`m building my spinnerbaits I always use a snap swivel,so I can change out blades. I`ve built spinnerbaits without the snap swivel, but I prefer to use the snap swivel. One note about snap swivels, don`t buy the least expensive ones because they won`t spin as well.

Nice looking skirts, I like the fourth from the top the best , or the1st one, or the 3rd one from top,I like them all good job.

The difference is Mold #1 - 4 cavities: 1/4,3/8,1/2,3/4oz. using eagle claw 570 hooks,mustad 32756 hook, gamakatsu 604 hook. Mold # 2 - 4 cavities: 1/8,1/4,3/8,1/2oz. using mustad 32798bln or mustad 32786bln hooks

Okay,Thanks guys I`ll try those sizes

We need to know the length of the rods, what weight lures it says on rods, line weight. Do any of the rods have a fast tip? What size reels do you have on the rods? Also line capacity of reels. This will help us to know what you have. The ultra light, I would use for pan fish or trout.