Hogsticker

I don't mind getting wet, it's when the wind starts REALLY howling that sucks. Just go fish man!!

He's a bass turd

Indeed

5.13 on a Spro Aruku Shad, 5/8 Oz magic tiger.

Senko. Can be cut and rigged a variety of ways.

Get a Daiwa Tatula off that auction site for 108 bucks shipped. The mag force Z braking system is quite user friendly and simple to adjust on the fly. No need to remove a side plate. While I wouldn't consider this an entry level reel, by the end of the summer you will be proficient with a baitcast reel, and happy you didn't get a cheaper reel that you're going to want to upgrade sooner than later. For bank fishing I prefer a 6'8,6'9 rod. You can still get fairly distant casts with this length which can be important from the bank. Anything longer I find can get in the way on the backswing when fishing in tight areas surrounded with trees, rocks, etc. If you're wanting the most versatile power and action to cover multiple techniques, I suggest a medium power fast action rod. Let us know what you end up with.

Practice often, but do it in a long driveway, large yard, etc. Make sure there are no trees around! Get in the habit of stopping the spool with your thumb just before the lure touches down. Keep your eye on the bait. If you have the brakes adjusted right you shouldn't have to watch the spool which it sounds like you're doing. Start with soft easy casts and ease into it.

If I had to choose just one, rage craw with a skip gap hook

I wonder if Lews will be adding any more reels to the already extensive line up. Maybe a magnesium reel, or a new TP size reel with the BB1 Pro braking system..... Some of the new 13 rods will have Fuji Torzite guides and the brand spanking new Fuji TVS spinning rod reel seat (blank through design!), and the new PTS casting reel seat which looks fantastic!! http://www.fishonmag.com/torzite/

Use the lightest pound, thinnest diameter line you can get away with. I prefer 20 lb braid on spinning reels. And yes, I try to match diameters when using backing or leaders.

I think it's a wonderful concept. Having a medium and medium heavy, fast and moderate fast. If I did a lot of traveling I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up. Beats the heck out of carrying 4,two piece rods

Not drop shooting. Just twitching sub surface. Sorry

Which hook do you prefer when nose hooking fluke type baits? I was thinking a 1/0 Owner Mosquito hook. Looking for something sharp and fairly strong that won't kill the action. Thanks

Just visit the Lews Web site. It breaks down every reel, what it is and what it has to offer

A good drag to me means consistency. Not bumpy or Jerky while paying out line... No slippage

The black hooks are 2x short shank. The red hooks are the regular short shank. I like and use the 2x short shank, 2x strong. I prefer that thicker wire gauge.

I'm confused. Are you talking about the handle itself or the knobs. Pop the knob cap off, remove the screw from the knob and see if the bearings are inside. There should be one on each end of each knob

That spool looks quite interesting, and that new Zillion rod looks pretty slick.

Use a moderate fast rod and upgrade to some 2X short shank hooks. The rest is up to you. I watch my line and when that fish starts coming to the surface I get ready or try to keep it from getting airborne. Use a net

Hopefully they put a full length handle on the new Max series. Doubtful

As already stated numerous times in all this bickering. Braid maintains better feedback on a tight line. Zero stretch, how could it not Fluoro transmits better on a slack line. The better the fluoro the better it gets I like to crank with braid so I can tell what is going on should I pick up any garbage, etc. It simply isn't a problem hooking up and staying hooked up when utilizing the proper drag and rod. If you're going to fish weightless plastics with braid you better be a line watcher. If not you're likely missing subtle takes you would have otherwise noticed with a quality fluoro. Every line type has a place and time. Use what works for you. If fluoro gives you a headache don't use it, or learn how to use it. I think a lot of people that have problems with fluoro management/backlashes are expecting to be able to cast it hard and fast as they would with braid. I only use it with plastics while making accurate casts, not long bombing it trying to make a record distance cast.

I've found that stock reel handles usually don't need extra shims. But, all the aftermarket handles I have ordered do.

What are the regulations? If you can use trebles and barbs I'd try a handful of River2Sea V Joint Minnows

I've played around with a bunch of hard swim baits. The only ones that produced with any regularity were the R2S S Waver, and the BBZ1. Hollow body swim baits are where it's at. I use to scoff at these things but they are big fish magnets. I was out this morning just fishing from the bank with one. I'd chuck it out there and let it sink to where I was fishing it just above bottom. When I finally slowed down (should have to begin with) and just crawled it along fast enough to make the tail activate I hooked up. It was just a sudden stop and some weight. I railed her pretty good and it was on. Caught a 5.2 oz smallie kinda on! She completely choked the bait. When I opened her mouth I could barely see the head of the bait choked. They work. I won't leave home without them. I caught this one on a Lethal Weapon precision swim bait. These things are pretty sweet. They only weigh a quarter ounce, well so the package says, but they cast like a donkey. They sink pretty quick and have an amazing action as they do. The hooks are pretty good too. I haven't had any problems hooking up. You should check them out at TW.

Do you have any electronics on that yak? If the spinnerbait doesn't work you could try pumping them up with a blade bait, but you would have to change out the trebles if you can't carry them.