burleytog

That isn't anywhere close to cost on those rods.

Leery of what???

WalMart or Tractor Supply.

Trilene 100% offers the best combination of strength, abrasion resistance and manageability. If they offered that line in a fluorescent version, it would be pretty much all I use. BPS XPS fluorocarbon isn't a bad line, but tends to be a bit stiffer than the Trilene. It also tends to 'shear' quite a bit more than any other fluorocarbon I've used. When the line breaks, it tends to separate. Kind of like what a roll of scotch tape does if you just scrape up one side of the tag end and try to pull the tape off the roll.

A Calcutta 50 or Daiwa Pixy and the appropriate rod is all the 'finesse' you need. My Calzilla 50/Fenwick 6'6 HMG M will toss an 1/8 oz. spinnerbait as far as I need to throw it. Really shines with light balsa crankbaits as well.

So you don't throw anything lighter than 7/16 oz. (weight of 5" Senko and a 3/0 Gamakatsu EWG hook) on casting tackle?

Use a 3/4 oz. or 1 oz. with a big thumping blade. Let it go to the bottom, then fish it like a jig. Pop it off the bottom, let the blade thump, give the reel a crank or two, then let the bait flutter back to the bottom. I'll fish it that way as deep as I have to.

IMO, yes. The STX's spool is a lot more free. In my experience, the centrifugal braking on the S was more effective than the linear magnetic braking on the STX and Premier.

What does that have to do with the effectiveness of the baits?

lol are you kidding??? why wouldnt you want to, it may seem sharp to the touch but in reality is actually dull. that could cost you the fish of a life time. Buy Owner hooks, you'll never worry about them being sharp. Sharpening a hook is an exercise in futility.

What did you wash it in? Sulfuric acid? I wash my raingear 5-6x a year and have never had any trouble.

Jimzee, fivebasslimit

http://www.***.com/descpageRLCDAIWA-TDT.html http://www.***.com/descpageRLCDAIWA-TDACA.html

If you only knew... This is just part of my 'to-do' list for the boat. Replace steering system Replace prop Replace thermostat Replace spark plugs Rebuild carbs Install remote PTT switch on stern Paint trailer Lots and lots of little stuff on there too. Such is the life when you run an old boat.

Oh, I'm going to be replacing the whole system. After looking at some photos on the Teleflex site, I'm pretty sure I've got a R&P system. And after looking around on the same site, I'm thinking of replacing with a Teleflex Safety QC system. Took some measurements this morning after work (114"), but can't figure out if I need to add or subtract 6" from the total (according to the measurement instructions).

I have no idea what the motor is currently turning. No tach.

The steering on my boat is super tight and I do believe it's time for a new cable. The problem is I don't know what to buy. I took a look under the console yesterday and did some looking around online earlier tonight and I think it is a rack & pinion system, but I'm not totally sure. I'm going to try to take a few photos this afternoon. Anyone have any tips for replacing the cables?

I can't believe you didn't get a good 'down-the-throat' shot.

Holy tuesday, you weren't lying. Should have thrown that mutha into the rod box. How's the Ito? :-?

I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but that phrase tells me it was "made" in Texas. Look at the descriptions of the Magnesium TS, Argon, and Carbon Steel. Then look at the same for the Helium LTA and LTX. Pretty obvious and plain.

http://www.kistlerrods.com/c/KR/helium-lta-fishing-rods/

If they wanted me to park there, they shouldn't have left all that mud lying around.

Even the perfect aren't perfect all the time... ;D

Dale Earnhardt Jr. isn't a very good driver. :-/