ChrisD46

I bought three Jackhammers on sale for $12.99 ea. However before the order shipped - I added three more Jackhammers to the list ... Shortly after the shipment arrived - I found myself in yet another family intervention (non - fishermen) with a 30 day return trip to Restful Meadows Bait Monkey Rehabilitation Center the end result . Today's first lecture : "Selecting Only One Color Crank Bait & Soft Plastic To Fish With" ... I started hyperventilating and sweating profusely - the instructor saw I was in deep distress and was kind enough to stop the class and send me back to my room (thank goodness - I couldn't wait to get out of that class !)

For the Keitech 2.8" Fat Impact Swim Bait and the Strike King 3.3" Rage Swimmer - what small swimbait jig head are you using that has a small enough hook and jig head to accommodate such small swim baits ? ... I'm thinking a 1/8th oz. ~ 3/16th oz. head weight with a size #2 , #1 or 1/0 hook is in the ball park - your experiences and recommendations ?

Is there a basic retrieve or more than one with the slider head + 4" ~ 5" worm ?

Good comments - slow rolling a spinner bait can obviously entail using different blade styles (not just Colorado blade) . I found a tandem Indiana blade spinnerbait (either 3/8th oz. or 1/2 oz.) in my tackle collection to try . I have asorted double willow leaf and tandem willow / Colorado spinnerbaits to try slow rolling with .

*In the technique that Charlie Brewer made famous and also the forerunner of the Ned Rig and Shaky Head : Who still uses the Slider Head technique and your favorite way to work the Slider Head ? What slider heads do you use and soft plastics best to match to it ? - Then lastly your rod and reel set up ? Thanks in advance !

*Good information - just what I am looking for regarding options , trade offs, etc.

*I'm just all about making a quality spinnerbait as all as I've used to many with cheap blades , poor wire frames and components (especially blade swivels) that did not turn on a slow retrieve .

I've decided to try my hand at making spinnerbaits using top quality components and looking for sources that stock the following : Pre-Made spinnerbait heads with best quality wire frame and hooks (i.e. 17-7 stainless steel , etc. wire frame with best vibration) Sampo (or equivalent) ball bearing swivels Hildebrandt (or equivalent) Colorado , Indiana & Willow leaf blades *Thanks in advance for suggestions , tips , etc. as I know (for example) the type of wire & thickness of the spinnerbait frame for the best combination of vibration and durability is often debated . Lastly , I'm good on skirt making materials thus I did not include here , so just focusing on the terminal tackle spinnerbait components required for this thread .

Great comments ! **I should add what blade configuration do you like to slow roll with : Colorado (single or double) Willow (double) Combo (willow / Colorado Indiana (double)

lol !! ... Thanks - I am more in the camp of less perfect , staggered skirt strands after trimming that look so real vs. the more perfectly trimmed skirt . I hear you though - what ever gives you confidence !

Usually , when discussions are held regarding slow rolling spinner baits the spinnerbait weights begin at 1/2 oz. and more commonly 3/4th oz. and 1 oz. weights . This is due to the deeper depths that slow rolling spinnerbaits (i.e. Winter) are used and the desire to keep these spinnerbaits running close to the bottom . The above said - what if your max depths are say 10' and not the much deeper depths (20 ft. +) these heavier spinnerbaits are typically used in for slow rolling ? ... *Do you still stay with a heavier spinnerbait (i.e. 1/2oz) in shallower water for slow rolling or could you drop down to a 3/8th oz. spinnerbait for slow rolling if your water depth does not top exceed say 10 ft. ? I'm thinking the spinnerbait weight for slow rolling has more to do with water depth than the slow rolling technique itself (as long as can maintain near bottom retrieve depth important to slow rolling ... Your thoughts and experiences ?

Thanks for the replies ! I know it may make more of a difference to me more than a bass - it's just an area I thought worth exploring now that I am tying my own skirts .

*If you have a moderate / fast action cranking rod and money was tight , you could use a mono with a bit more stretch and a line ratting closer to #12 lb. test (i.e. Stren Original Mono) ... While not perfect - it will help your cause if all you have is a moderate / fast action rod to use .

For those that do not cut their skirt lengths even across at the bottom - what is your method for purposely creating a rough , uneven skirt length look that looks a bit more natural and pulses more with rod action on the retrieve ? ... Thanks in advance !

*SLX MGL 70 series for lighter lure weight applications - those that use for the more finesse side of things sure do like the reel !

Most Square Bill 1.5's get between #12 lb. to #15 lb. FC , Co-Poly or Mono .

*Yes , I meant rod: "Power" - not action .

As the title states - I'm curious what is the heaviest action spinning rod you currently use for bass ? In my case , the heaviest action spinning rod I own is a 7' M/F (Dobyns) - then I jump up either to a 703C / 733C MH/F (Dobyns) bait casting rod . I use my 7' M/F spinning rod with braid + leader for shaky head , finesse jigs , light T-Rigs , flukes and senkos . While I can still toss similar lures with my bait cast outfit , I usually will start increasing the lure or set up weight (jigs / T-Rigs) or move on to more power oriented techniques with the bait casting set up . Some folks may opt for a 7' MH/F (i.e. 704) spinning rod to cross over to the heavier applications while still others using bait casting set ups may elect to go more in a finesse direction (i.e. new Shimano SLX MGL 70 series reel with a M/F action bait cast rod to match). *With the above said , what camp are you in : Go heavier with your spinning rod set up OR go lighter with your bait casting set up ?

*There are a lot of good shaky heads on the market - as an example by reading on TW you can find a variety of different styles of shaky head designs as well as user comments to help educate you as to what is available .

*Please explain the need for the "Boonedox Rudder Upgrade" and the "Burley Pro Rudder Lines" to go with it ?

^^This ^^

Thanks for the replies - all of these suggestions have merit !

Good comments - yes , motorized / pedal drive with good stability . I'm 6'1" 300 lbs. so weight capacity (i.e. 450 lbs. - 600 lbs. ) versus being a real tall guy are requirements . I believe there are two types of stability : Primary and Secondary ? I believe secondary stability refers to resistance to tipping over after reaching a certain angle ? Any way , yes - a stable platform for a high seat position as well as stability fishing while standing . The ability to add a stand assist rope / bar would be great as well . Just sort of sounding like I want a "floating dock with a rudder attached" (lol !) bass fishing while seated in a low seat position in a SOT bass kayak is just not real appealing to me versus a high seat position or standing while bass fishing . Lastly , Old Town and Wilderness Systems are good name brands but I did not see anything that appeared to be better than suggestions already made in this thread .

Strike King Rage Swimmers for more aggressive / warmer water bass and Strike King KVD Swim N Shiner for less action in colder water / less aggressive bass .

*My conditions mirror yours , so I would prefer better control with less possibility of backlashing versus distance . I switched to Daiwa spinning reels and have been happy with the quality / features at that $140 and under price point so I would expect the same with either the Fuego CT or Tatula CT .