ChrisD46

+1 on the VMC Crank Bait Snaps size #0 , #1 .

This ^^ rigging (I like with an o-ring catching some worm skin when rigged) ... Use a weedless VMC Neko Hook size #2 !

*I never knew there was so much available in prop baits ! Also , why are prop baits so popular in Florida and not other places in the country ? Is it due to grass cover or other reasons ?

*The key to using the Berkley battery powered hook sharpener is to press the hook down into the unit very lightly ! It doesn't do well at all if you press the hook point too hard into the unit - again a light touch is best in short bursts .

*This is why the Rapala , Berkley or Yo-Zuri offerings might make for a nice alternative .

I have the older 6'6" Lightening Shock Med/Mod rod which is made for braid main line - however if you use #10 lb. to #12 lb. mono or co-poly line on it then it's just about perfect for jerk baits , crank baits , etc. My blemish free , perfectly straight Lightening Shock rod was on close out for $9.00 at WM . I also bought a perfect copy of the older 7' MH / Mod Lightening Shock on close out for $12 ... These two older version Lightening Shock rods were a good buy back in the day (new version not so much) ... *Today I would look at a Daiwa Aird X 6'6" or 7' M/F in the $50 range for jerk baits , crank baits , etc.

Excluding a Whopper Plopper - what is your favorite Prop Bait for bass ? Old school names such as Devil's Horse and Heddon Torpedo are still around as well as newer offerings . I don't have much experience with prop baits (beyond a Torpedo) but vow to try the new Berkley Spin Rocket and a Yo-Zuri 3DB Prop Bait this Spring ... Your thoughts & experiences ?

Good read Tom !

Doesn't a Palomar Knot cut into itself thus being a poor choice with FC line ?

A line "spooling station" for a bait cast reel is convenient - for spinning reel I place a line spool on a small nail (nailed to a basement wood beam about 4' off the ground) to hold the spool and make sure the line coming off the line spool is the same direction as what my spinning reel is winding the line on . Afterwards , take off the spinning reel line spool and place the whole thing in a cup of warm water for 15 minutes so the freshly spooled on line will "set" . Lastly , my belief is spooling on line to a spinning reel where the line spool is at a 90 degree angle to how your spinning reel is spooling on line is a disaster waiting to happen ! Whether you use the nail in the wall method I use ofr place the spool of line on the floor - you want the line coils coming off the line spool the same way/direction as what your spinning reel winds the line on .

*Also check out the Rapala "Brat" crank bait - there are two models : One dive down to 3' and one dives down to 6' ; both are a balsa hybrid crank bait I believe - Gerald Swindle and a few other pros use the Rapala Brat crank bait with success (Google for more) .

A 3/16th oz. Buckeye Lures Spot Remover in Black or Green Pumpkin is what you want as a good starting point for Trick Worms / Finesse Worms of your choice ... I like a Z-Man Elaztech 7" Finesse Green Pumpkin and a 7" Finesse Junebug worm currently - the combination of the Spot Remover shaky head jig along with the Z-Man 7" Finesse worm will stand up effortlessly !

I currently use a Improved Clinch Knot for FC leader to Ned Jig Head (usually 1/16th oz.) . I was curious what others used as their leader / mainline knot to Ned Jig Head ? Also curious if anyone has used a small loop knot line connection to a Ned Jig Head and if it provided any additional action on retrieves ?

If you use braid as a main line then a 7' MH Moderate action will allow bass to get a buzz bait in their mouth good and keep them buttoned up better afterwards . Pro's seem to use this strategy in using the same rod for buzz bait , chatterbait & spinner bait .

A 7' MH F would work if you are using a mono or co-poly main line with some stretch to it . If you use braid then a 7' MH Moderate action rod is better and perhaps even better with mono or co-poly again . According to those with experience , a more moderate action will allow bass to get the spinner bait or chatterbait in their mouth better and keep them buttoned up afterwards while a Fast action rod tends to jerk a spinner bait or chatterbait out of the bass's mouth before they get it good .

+1 ... You could add a 3' to 4' leader of #12 lb. P-Line C-XX co-poly (green) if you feel the need for abrasion resistance.

*That's quite a deal to irritate a bass to no end via DS into biting without moving the bait out of the strike zone - that heavy weight will keep you pinned to an exact spot until you decide to move it ... Interesting !

*Good lake Erie DS weight comments - I certainly get it ! ... For general dragging . shaking DS retrieve though in southern reservoirs - I want a DS weight high enough to maintain contact with the bottom . For me , 1/8th oz. tends to bounce and rise too much on the retrieve with all but the smallest 4" Robo worms . I now start out at 3/16th oz. DS weights again for the general drag & shake DS retrieve with finesse worms , flukes , minnows , etc.

+1 ... Time to try a new Jason Christie or Luke Clauson spinnerbait (Booyah & ZMan respectively ) !

*I had an opportunity to see / handle a Daiwa Aird-X M/F 7' casting rod - very nice for the $50 price !

+1 Grease where grease is supposed to be used and oil where oil is supposed to be used !

Adding Dobyns 702 Sierra SF as well ... *Dobyns 703 SF is a great shaky head rod ! ... Agree for Ned , Neko , drop shot , etc. the Dobyns 702 SF is a nice rod !

Painted Ned Rig jig heads can help ! Besides the colors mentioned above (usually powder painted) - Tom in California got me started using Testors enamel paints on small jig heads with good results ... Testors makes a color called: "Rubber" which is a purple / brown color unlike any color jig head I have seen before (which at least instills confidence in me) .

Small minnow type baits such as the Zoom super fluke jr. , Berkley powerbait minnow and the Strike King / Zman 3x elaztec minnows can also work well .

*I recently went down a internet rabbit hole on the quality differences and collection of tambourines (hollow ; no drum skin attached - just dual row symbols on the outside edge) . Amazing how a tambourine player can wear out the hollow type tambourines during a concert tour ; why the tambourines from the 1960's are still most sought after , etc. It was interesting !