OntarioFishingGuy

The Raven is a smaller pin as well, so it probably won't balance a rod as well as a larger one and will have a bit less line pick up. It should be lighter than the Okuma though.

http://www.raventackle.com/img/raven_float_chart.jpg I really like the SS or SM for shallow slow water.

I saw one eating a rat in a creek. Creepy looking thing with a tail sticking out of it's mouth.

Out of curiosity, what tape would you use to back the reel? I have been using mono but tape would be quicker and easier.

Redwing Phantom for smaller creeks or Raven FM/FS. Slip floats for deeper than 10 feet.

Rapala Original Floating Minnow

Gagnons or Fishing World in Hamilton.

Oh and there is no need for a rod that expensive. A cheaper rod will perform fine. The hits are quite hard when fishing lures, and when float fishing the float does the bite detection for you. A more sensitive rod would be good for bottom bouncing though. Many creeks are also quite overgrown around the shorelines, so if you walk into a tree with your rod, a cheaper one will be less of a loss.

Never heard of hair skirts, but i am more than happy tying my jigs and flies anyways. That's half the fun! Keep at tying and you'll get better. Then you can start tying more elaborate jigs and flies.

Those are both Largemouth Bass. A very easy way to tell the difference is by looking at the mouth. When closed, a Smallmouth Bass's mouth will not extend back behind the fish's eye, whereas a Largemouth bass's mouth will extend behind it's eye.

Mine's quite loud and makes a grinding noise when reeling, but only with pressure on the spool.

I have also used bass gear for steelhead fishing, but not for float fishing, as I prefer a centerpin rod for that. Almost any bass rod will work for casting lures though.

Braid + leader always for me. Straight fluorocarbon has never worked well for me. Too much coiling and twists. Braid is also more sensitive IMO.

Yup! Using a Matrix Special Edition. Hoping to upgrade to an Islander soon.

Braid without backing can cause the braid to slip on the spool. Spool some mono on before your braid to prevent slipping and save braid.

Braid without backing can cause the braid to slip on the spool. Spool some mono on before your braid to prevent slipping and save braid.

The most realistic lures are well tied flies. Google Fred G Hannie flies and you'll see what I mean.

Nice job!

... ... ... Ummmmmm.... Wow. Just wow.

You can catch them on small jigs with 2'' Gulp leeches and minnows when they are in shallow water. They are a blast on light tackle.

I use both but do far better on the inline model. I find the inline model works better in rivers, and the safety-pin style works better in lakes.

Right on! Our rivers aren't fully open until the end of April, so I'm stuck fishing piers to get away from the crowds. Still beats the monstrosity that is the Niagara though....

A long set of needle nose pliers, a large net, and a pair of jaw spreaders are very useful tools. If you are going to use jaw spreaders, BEND THEM TO ADJUST THE SPREADING FORCE FOR THE FISHES SIZE!! This will reduce injury to the fish, and prevent them from flying back at your face. Also invest in a good set of hook/wire cutters, in case the fish is hooked in an awkward spot.

There was a great pond for fishing here right in the middle of the city. Every spring, the shorelines are littered with sunfish, bass and pike, all dead. A couple dead fish isn't the end of the world, but if you keep seeing more, you may want to contact your DNR.

Pump, you need help bro! Nice stuff!