stratos4me

My buddies starting out without much money often ask me which baitcaster to get. My answer is always the same...Shimano SLX. If they are rich and enjoy the finer things in life I recommend a JDM metanium if they are ok without a warranty or a Curado if they want a warranty. There is a reason so many long time bass fisherman are loyal to Shimano reels. Of course, people will talk up various brands, but I would just get the Shimano and be done with it.

10 yards of mono or copoly backing to nearly a full spool of braid, to a mono, floro, or copoly topshot or leader. Mono and copoly are much easier to tie to the spool than braid because of stretch. I use straight copoly for all lures over 1/2 oz because even heavy braid will occasionally break on a mild backlash with a lure over 1/2 oz. Strange but true.

Sad but true. I remember the good old days when I'd wait on pins and needles for the BPS catalog to arrive in my mailbox. I would rush home from school and circle my wish list. Good memories. Today I just use TW for almost everything. It's better than BPS in almost every way. Frankly, I was never a fan of the old Cabelas.

The Expride 6'10" medium is the only rod I have two of. Great for all treble hook baits from 1/4-3/4oz except deep divers. For me, it handled an 8 with ease, and it still cast small baits like a champ. Also great for a wacky senko and I love shimano reel seats.

Makes perfect sense. Thank you.

I apologize for being AWOL on this thread for a while. There were some really great responses. Thank you.

Ok. Put on those science caps guys... With the long winter and late spring, water in my lake has warmed from 55-70 in 3 weeks. The day it hit 60, the spawn started (three weeks later than last year). First and early second wave is currently up and in various stages. Water temp in the lake will continue to rise with local weather forecasts in the 90s. Here's my question: Is there a maximum water temperature for optimal florida largemouth fry survival? Thanks

Not really the answer I was hoping for, but thank you very much. I just hate going to an EWG on a dropshot. I feel like it kills the action.

To be clear, I'm not asking a question about hook strength, rod action, other species, or fish hooked anywhere except through the upper lip from the inside out. If the hook gap is narrower than the jaw bone/tooth row so it is unable to get around the bone, will the hook reliably stick into the bone/tooth row or will it just bounce off? Silly me I guess for thinking people would read past the title.

Of course it's a serious question. My original question doesn't apply to any bass under about 9-10#. I appreciate the input. Sorry, I thought my question made it clear that I was specifically referencing my physical inspection of the jaw width of an 11-8 largemouth.

Interesting. How many bass over 10# have you landed on those hooks?

How many fish over 10# have you caught on those hooks?

Thanks. I never considered the possibility of driving a hook directly into the bone.

Yes. I like red and loud when the water gets dirty from spring run off. It works on lakes without crawdads too!

Depends if I expect the need to run.... No, really, traveling as light as possible will make you a better fisherman. The guy with one rod and a single pack of plastics often outfishes the guy who hauls around the kitchen sink and wastes half the day tying on random baits.Tossing in a backup reel is a good idea though just in case.

Warm summer nights. The jackhammer at night is money!

Ahh BPS...not quite the Kmart of tackle.

Last fall I was lucky enough to catch a new PB. That was the first opportunity I've had to closely examine a trophy fish. At 11-8 the thing that stood out to me most was the width of the jaw and teeth. I didn't measure it, but it had to be nearly 1/2" thick! That was a frog fish. When dropshotting I reel set and usually hook fish through the upper lip and around the top jaw, but nose hooks for dropshotting have hook gaps that are much smaller than the jawbone of a trophy fish. Am I messing up by using the nose hook when big fish are possible? How real is the risk of the hook just bouncing off the big jaw bone? Thanks!

That thing has a head bump like a peacock!

A dry or semi-dry suit, an inflatable life jacket, and a personal locator beacon to summon a helicopter are my goto safety equipment at night on the water for riskier trips. Nope. Try a black or black and blue jig.

When you're pitching and set the hook in cover do you feel like the tip is too soft? Is the tip too light for weedless swimbaits on beast hooks? Thanks.

I've tried every technique possible over 35 years to defeat the dreaded spinning reel nightmare you describe. Eventually, I figured out that the only reliable solution is braid...period!!! It sounds like the line is just too limp for your fishing style. Try 15#.

From what I gather, the Expride 7'7" Heavy is kind of an unusual rod. I'm interested to know from those who own the rod what you use it for. Moderate flippin? Frogs? Spooks? Jigs? Swimbaits? What do you use it for?

Because bass are individuals, I find that it is best to ask where the main body of fish should be now and I don't worry too much about where they came from. It's about a general understanding of seasonal patterns as opposed to tracking individual fish.

It's always possible to get a bite. The issue is probability.