EmersonFish

As far as the price of the FC, it might be cheaper in the long run to buy FC for leaders than have to cut your braid every time you get a nasty snag. Seaguar Red Label is actually a good leader line. Ties a good knot, and it's affordable. A filler spool will last a long time, although you may need a couple of different pound tests for different situations. On the other hand, there are times when you can get a lure back thanks to braid you might have lost otherwise, so there's that to consider. As a fellow fisherman, I appreciate any efforts other fisherman make to cut down on having to cut their braided line and leave it in the water. I'm so sick of getting hung on that stuff and dragging 30 feet of it up. Not trying to rant. Just a pet-peeve. I didn't notice you mention how clear your water is you fish. Count me as one who believes that line visibility matters. Not saying you can't tie a lure to 30lb. Hi-Vis mono and catch a fish now and then, but over time, you'll catch more fish if your line is less visible. If I were flipping into cover looking for reaction strikes, I might not worry about it, but generally speaking, I like less visibility. Of course I fish in Missouri, where a lot of our water is quite clear. I use leaders that are short enough that I don't reel them onto my reel, but long enough that I can retie several times without having to put a new leader on.

I boat alone quite a bit and bank fish quite a bit, depending on how ambitious I am that day, or how much time I have. I feel like it would be pushing it a bit for a bank fisherman to approach a complete stranger about hitching a ride. Puts the boater in an awkward position. If it were a situation like someone mentioned earlier where it was a bank fisherman that the boater had previous friendly interactions with, it might be something to discuss, but maybe plan it for the next time out so that you can make sure you are both on the same page about the details (how long on the water; practicing new techniques versus just trying to catch for fun; gas money; etc...). I've been creeping along the bank and had a couple of bass fishermen on boats ask me if I would like to hop on for a while. I genuinely appreciated the offer, but usually when I'm bank fishing, I'm pushing my luck time-wise as it is, so I thank them and decline. This kind of thing is probably addressed more formally on message boards. I know on a catfish board I'm on non-boaters hook up with boaters once in a while, and it usually turns out pretty good based on their reports.

I'm a right-handed person who uses "left-hand retrieve" reels exclusively. To me, it is just more natural. I have more control over the rod with my good arm, and the reel is meant to collect/manage line, not act as a winch. But whatever works for people. I don't mind the number of options available in the bass fishing market. I get more frustrated looking for reels intended for other species, although I usually get what I need. To play Devil's Advocate, I'd say a good reason for a righty to use a "right-hand retrieve" reel that forces you to switch hands every cast is to reduce arm fatigue. I've never had a problem with that; at least not yet.

I've only used it in 15# and up (not the Elite) and it was terrible, but this has been years ago. It was strong enough, but completely unmanageable. I've heard several people say the lighter line was okay, but I wasn't going to buy any more of it to find out. It's not like it's that much cheaper than many other options anyway. Perhaps they've changes the formula, but they would indicate that on the packaging. Maybe the 'Pro Elite' line is the answer.

True. FC is finicky. A lot of knots will work, but even with those, you have to be a lot more careful tying them than you would with "mono."

Short answer: I trust the uni-2-uni knot, with the qualifiers that I never tie it using "mono" nearly as heavy as what you are using, and haven't used it with lines with as varying of a diameter as what you described. Not saying it wouldn't work well, I just cannot personally attest to it.

Yeah. I use that trick in several situations where I know people will be all over me if I don't. Most of the time, when sales people do approach me, I just say, "no thanks" and they move on, but sometimes they take it a step further after that, and that's when I can feel a little blood rushing to my head. Unfortunately in the BPS near me, their little vacation package sales station is right next to the stuff I go in to shop for most often, and there seems to be enough turnover in the sales people (or the regulars don't remember faces because they see so many) that they are not familiar with who comes in a lot and has probably been approached 1000 times.

Not to belabor a point, but just remember that there are certain knots, regardless of how well of tie them, that don't work as well with braid. The Palomar knot you tie, Squirmin Wormin, is a fine line to lure knot with braid; and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. It can be a pain in the neck with larger baits, as you know, but it works.

Good first tournament. You've already learned, or reinforced, that plans can change quick, and that you can still do some damage near the end of the day. Don't waste this experience. Build on it and get better.

Good job. Don't wait too long to get back out there again. You got a 3rd, then a 2nd. You know what that means for next time? 1st place!

I go to BPS to get what I need and move on. I only have two beefs from an employee perspective. *The fishing guy who assumes he knows more than I do and offers unsolicited (and often ridiculous) advice. *The sales people who try and push those vacation packages down your throat the minute you get near them. Somebody said no one at BPS works on commission. Well maybe these guys don't technically work for BPS, but BPS would be a better shopping experience if these people disappeared forever.

There are different knots for different line types, presentations, etc.; but as WRB implied, the most overlooked aspect of knot strength is the ability of the person to consistently tie it correctly. There are things all over the internet where knots are tested against each other, but even those have their issues. Some knots may be better with heavier lines than light lines; some knots may be better at absorbing shock where a break test uses a steady pull; and on and on. The bottom line is, it's too complicated to really pin down a best knot, and there are plenty of good knots for every situation; so use an appropriate knot for the situation that you are confident you can tie well. I know that's not the fun answer. I don't have a fun answer. Sorry.

I have the St. Croix Avid, ML, XF, casting rod. It is not what I would call a versatile rod. As its specs suggest, it's great for drop shot fishing, and is fun to throw little cranks with, but not so hot for finesse jigs, light shaky heads, weightless worms, and things like that. I actually find myself using a cheap old ML Carrot Stix Wild for those things; although I'm trying to get use to using spinning gear, which I have never been a fan of.

In my case, my phone is always with me (basically stuck to my hand). Between work, home, and my laptop, I never know what computer I'll be on. I suppose I could "print" the screenshot and carry a piece of paper around, or email it to myself. I'd rather just have a pic that I always have with me and can reference when I'm at the store or wherever. But hey; I confess to not knowing how to do a "screenshot" before. I'm learning new things every day.

You can also do this with a heavy bell sinker. Worst case, you lose a sinker and a swivel in addition to your lure.

So how do you tend to hook them? Do you go straight through the worm so it rides on the bend of the hook, or do you thread them at all, so it is more parallel with the hook point, particularly when you are fishing where it will get hung a lot? And how far back do you hook it? As little as possible? About 1/8" back? When I'm fishing open water, I still tend to run the hook through so the worm rides along the hook point more, still leaving the hook point exposed. I'm not sure that's the best way, I just like the action of the worm better when it's like that, and I haven't noticed any issues with hooking fish. But I'm still developing as a drop-shotter, so to speak. Plenty to learn.

I've always rigged my Roboworms (and other dropshot baits) flat side down and have caught countless fish with that bait and that presentation. Not saying I'm right; just saying that it works for me, and I'm confident in it.

'975 Green Flash' was my second guess.

I'm always taking pictures of my computer screen with my cell phone so I remember things, but that doesn't save my work. Seems like a wish-list would be a nice addition. Perhaps they have legitimate reasons not to do it. Maybe they think people would be more inclined to order less often, waiting until their list reached a certain amount to save on shipping? Maybe they believe people would be more likely to leave the site and price shop items that they might have went ahead and ordered if it were convenient to do so? I'm just thinking out loud. More likely it's a pain in the neck on the technical side.

I'm experienced casting baitcasters, and almost never have a problem, even using them for lighter applications than most do. Having said that, I've used an Abu Black Max that I bought as a low priced reel to put on a rod I got free at a tourney, and even I had problems with it; and that was with mono (nylon). Maybe I got a lemon, but I can't imagine someone new to baitcasters using that reel with FC on it. That's a tough way to start, in my opinion. I'd look at all of the videos and articles mentioned, get a lot of practice, and in the meantime, do it with mono (nylon)or a "copolymer." Whatever advantages you seek from using FC are pretty much out the window if it is giving you a headache and emptying your wallet.

I'm guessing it's not green pumpkin? Am I right?

If you have to have a 'Sellus' for Shaky Head fishing, the 'Drop Shot' model might be your best option for light shakeys. I have that rod, as it was my 'Drop Shot' rod for a time, and a pretty darn good one at that price, but even though it's labeled "Medium" it is a true 'Drop Shot' rod. I personally don't like it for shakeys as I prefer a stiffer tip for that kind of hookset. I'd also prefer it were a couple inches longer. With braid, you might get away with it. It's definitely a neat little rod for the money. Put a little Shimano 1000 on their and you have a nicely balanced little setup. If you fish heavier 'Shaky Heads' maybe the 'Worm and Jig' will do, but if you're like me, 'Shaky Head' fishing is usually more of a light line tactic. When I do go heavier, I'm into my casting gear.

I can't really add much. Good info here. I usually thread my trailers, but how far on I thread them depends on the profile I want the bait to have. Also, I think some people believe that the skirt that comes on the jig itself cannot be tampered with. I'm not afraid to take some scissors to that as well (along with the weedguard). One jig and one trailer can have a lot of different looks and be fished a lot of different ways. Just make sure you don't do anything with the trailer that will impede your hook penetration. Personally, I'm not a fan of the bulkier "chunk" trailers that people just run the hook through. I know they've probably caught millions of fish, but they don't instill great confidence in me. I have used them, but when I have, I still somewhat thread them on the hook so they sit on the shank rather than on the bend.

Right now my DSG has Buy One Get One Free on Clearance Priced terminal tackle, which for me has meant buying up some VMC Tungsten Drop Shot weights. $4.97 for 2 packages.

Fine. I'll take Daniel; 1990 Skeeter gets Dan; ddossett1976 gets Danny. Any other Daniel/Danny/Dan's are out of luck.