desmobob

I have the Plano ProLatch Line Spool Box and have mixed feelings about it. In theory, it seems pretty handy. I bought it not for spooling, but for keeping spools of line/leader material in the boat. In use, smaller diameter lines are not held securely by the rubber grommets each line passes through. And when fully loaded with spools, the lines tend to loop off the spools and tangle. When you open the lid to correct a tangle, the grip on the grommets on the lines pull off more slack that may or may not lay over the corresponding spool when you close the lid. It's hard for me to explain, but it can be frustrating. If the box was made so there was some tension on the spools, I think it would be more functional. For spooling, I think understanding how different type reels need to be spooled is more important than having a line spooling device. I use an old rod butt with the reel seat and first guide still intact to mount my reels, then use a small cardboard box, pencil, etc. to cobble up a quick spool holder. Tight lines, Bob

Craw as a jig trailer and the Bug T-rigged is what I tend to do. Tight lines, Bob

Bite the bullet and get a good rack system. I have a combination of Thule square rack system and Yakima accessories. I have the outrigger mentioned above and it's a big help, although you still need to be careful not to scratch or ding your car. I can carry two canoes, two kayaks, or a combination of the two, or lumber and oversized items from the hardware store, etc. on my Forester. I can remove the racks in five minutes. Tight lines, Bob

Only three baits? Two Senkos and a Ned Rig. ;-) Tight lines, Bob

I fish them out of the box and then do a thorough clean/lube over the winter. They usually come with more lube applied than I prefer, but I don't think I've ever had a new reel that was so over-greased it affected operation or performance. Tight lines, Bob

I will consider buying the pliers and continue using inexpensive O-rings. I hate messing with the tube-type wacky o-ring tools and pliers like those would be very convenient. Tight lines, Bob

I tried a Mojo Bass rod based on the specs (the blank material) and was impressed with the performance. I consider them an outstanding value. Tight lines, Bob

I started out with the VMC with the wire guard. It saved me from getting hung up as planned, but I also lost a lot of fish... I'd sometimes get them all the way back to the boat and they'd come off. I switched to the Owner weedless wacky, but found the guards too soft to roll the bait off sticks and logs. I was getting good hook-ups, but still losing lots of rigs to snags. I currently am using the Decoy Cover Finesse HD weedless wacky hooks. They seem to do a good job of keeping me from getting hung up on wood, but still hook the fish nicely. Tight lines, Bob

I got out in the boat for the first time yesterday. The very southern end of the lake was still iced over. Water temp is right at 40*. The forecast for the upcoming week is nights below freezing and highs in the low 40's. I guess it's going to be a while before the fishing gets good! Tight lines, Bob

I buy inexpensive aerosol carpet cleaning spray for the carpet in my Bass Tracker. You spray it on, it foams, you scrub it with a sponge or brush, then vacuum. Tight lines, Bob

I do! I think one of most relaxing fishing experiences is to sit in a float tube on a summer day with a 2wt or 3wt fly rod fishing for sunfish. But I don't waste good trout flies... there's not much better than simple foam spiders tied with craft foam and rubber legs. They are quick, easy and cheap and sunfish can't resist them. Tight lines, Bob

Those rope lures look easy to make... interesting. Gar will really hold on to one of those all the way to the boat? Is it hard to get the rope lure off their teeth to release them? There are lots of big Spotted Gar in the lake I fish and I've had dozens of them hit various bass baits but have never landed one. I usually throw whatever I happen to have on at the moment when I see one and it seems like they are always game to take it. They usually come off almost immediately. A fishing buddy of mine hooked one with a 5wt fly rod in a small river one day and he fought it for a long time. He finally got it to his feet and I was just getting out my camera when it thrashed hard, broke the tippet and got away. We were both very disappointed to miss that photo opportunity! Tight lines, Bob

Yup. Of course, the TV news made it out to be a big deal and a big mystery. The coverage was on April 1st and a lot of the locals unaware that shad even exist in the lake thought it was an April Fools Day joke! The catfish, pike, seagulls and vultures are fat and happy. Tight lines, Bob

I got out on L. Champlain's southern end yesterday. The water was 39*-40* with the warmest shallow bay I could find being 48*. There was a significant shad die-off; first one in several years. Of course, the not-so-local TV news from Albany made it out to be some kind of mysterious tragedy. The weather forecast shows snow on Friday, then another week of highs around 40* and lows below freezing. Ugh! Tight lines, Bob

Nice! And cool that you have them around. Here in the Northeast, we have to drive to the coast and fish the salt to catch stripers. Tight lines, Bob

I forgot to mention drag grease. That's the one place I buy the expensive specialty lube, only because I'm not sure if regular marine grease will work as well. I use Cal's drag grease. Tight lines, Bob

I like 6.3:1 because, for me, it's easy to speed up but I have difficulty remembering to slow down. I use several 5.1:1 and 5.4:1 reels for that reason... I have a hard time working a bait slowly. :-) Tight lines, Bob

I forgot to mention leaders. I always use a leader of mono. I used to use flouro, but have started using regular nylon monofilament, especially on the lighter rigs. Fluoro has less initial stretch than mono, but stretches a lot as it approaches its breaking strength. But, when fluoro gets stretched, it is compromised and loses strength. With an ultralight or light set-up using a 4lb or 6lb. fluoro leader, after you get hung up once and break off, you have probably weakened the fluoro leader to a point where its breaking strength is now pretty low. Admittedly, I have only switched to nylon leaders recently and can't say yet whether or not I believe it is advantageous. My new choice is based on theory at this point! Tight lines, Bob

6.4:1 Tight lines, Bob

One gun oil, RemOil, is one of the lowest viscosity light oils available. It really lets those bearings spin! It's a heck of a lot cheaper than most of the specialty super-duper bearing lubes. A bottle of RemOil and a tube of good grease will cost less than a set of special reel lube and grease that come in tiny containers and you'll have enough to last you three lifetimes. Tight lines, Bob

I have Fireline on my small (UL & L) spinning reels and PowerPro or Suffix braid on my larger ones. I really like the 4lb. Fireline for ultralights (I believe the breaking strength is WELL above 4lbs.) and 10lb. or 15lb. braid on the larger ones. Tight lines, Bob

It works. It takes a whole lot of elbow grease, but it takes off the haze. Thanks for the tip! Thanks. I do need to get something mounted. My transducer is mounted directly to the transom of my aluminum hull. I was thinking of a piece of angled plastic, aluminum or stainless steel sheet that I could sandwich between the transducer mounting bracket and the hull, so I wouldn't have to drill any additional holes. I've never noticed one on any boats at the launch. Do many guys use them? What are you other guys using? Thanks again, Bob

Search for "automatic fly reels have a place on the water" to get information on how they work and how to use them properly. If you do it wrong, you can damage your rod! Tight lines, Bob

Actually, they were pretty common in the '50s and '60s. Pflueger still sells them. I have a couple of them on the shelf. When you strip out line, the spring is compressed. Pressing the lever or other release clears your line in a hurry! Tight lines, Bob

I really need to make a water deflector to fit over my transducer. It throws water up on the side of the engine when I'm running on plane. Anyway, the lake I fish is silty/muddy and when the water dries on the engine, it leaves a whitish film that is impossible to get off with Simple Green, Windex, etc. I have some CLP which is excellent on scale and mineral deposits, but I don't think it's safe for the plastic cowl and decals on my engine. Anyone know of a good safe product or method to remove this very stubborn haze? Tight lines, Bob