poisonokie

man, just go with 10-15 lb braid with a 6-8 lb fluoro leader. Power pro to red label.

The OP was taking about Texas rigging, which is completely different from your A rig, and conceals the hook. Plus hook visibility is why we have black nickel hooks.

Just because bass don't reason doesn't mean they don't adapt. Something that was a threat before will elicit a fight or flight response the next time. Something subtle like line may take a while to be associated with the threat, but over time it will. Of course they don't know what it is, but they do see it and they'll turn away from that t rig if they do. Sounds like you've got quite a collection of baits to catch the same fish on the same structure. So why is that necessary? Could it be that the fish's little brain is trying to keep it alive by keeping it from biting some of them? If not, you might as well just throw everything away and go buy a lifetime supply of purple worms before everyone else figures out that your bait presentation doesn't really matter and the entire fishing industry collapses because we're all just a bunch of idiots throwing money at fish when we should be throwing purple worms on neon 20 lb line.

amazing! I'm thrilled just to get a lure back that way.

probably size 6. Owner st-36 are excellent hooks.

that's what I figured and hoped for. I ordered an SV spool for my T3. I've got some 20lb power pro ready to go on there. I think I'll get that medium light tatula to mount it on. Hopefully I can get 1/8 oz out there a good ways. Thanks for the timely answers, guys.

I get that, but you'd probably get more bites on less visible line. As for the lures,it just depends on where you are and what the fish see and get caught on all the time. Back to that farm pond, you could just about throw a bare hook in sometimes and come up with a kicker fish, but to catch something decent at a place with constant fishing pressure you have to change it up and try something new because the fish grow accustomed to the spinners everyone and their dog casts in there. They become lure shy, they become line shy. They remember threats and avoid them, just like every other creature alive. If they didn't, every day on the water would be a cake walk and fishing tackle wouldn't be a billion dollar industry.

As in the actual mass of the line. I want to shave off the most amount of weight possible on the spool for finesse reasons.

me too

that's the difference between reaction strikes and feeding strikes. Cranks and flipping? Line color probably doesn't matter as much. But slow dragged jigs, t rigs, and drop shots are different. The less they see anything but the bait itself the better.

if fish couldn't identify danger, they never would have evolved into what they are now and we wouldn't even be having this conversation because we wouldn't be here either.

Not so fast. Why is that you can go up to a farm pond that no one ever fishes and catch every fish in there and then turn around and go to some highly pressured water and catch squat?

LOL, THAT is EPIC! Lolololllllklllllllololol

how did they ship this thing? Are rigid cardboard tube or a flimsy cardboard box? It may have been fractured in transit and you never knew because you fished it right. That might explain the two breaks.

welcome to bassresource, by the way, the only social network that matters.

it's not exactly a quality reel, I'm sure, but it would be okay to give you a general idea of how to use one before you decide to shell out cash for a good one.

I'm not so sure they don't, but typically they bite lures like that reflexively. Jerkbaits aside, when a hardbait flies past their face they don't have time to study it. Slow presentations, on the other hand, like the t-rig the OP is talking about, may have a bass nosing up to it for a long time before it decides to eat it. So in that case line color may make a difference. I get more bites on fluorocarbon for sure, and I set more hooks by having a high vis mainline.

you can get a Daiwa lexa for a little more than $100 on amazon. They are outstanding, especially if you swap the drag and line roller bushings out with bearings. Of course that's a little more money still, but on down the road if you decide to you can and you'll have an ultra smooth, reliable reel with the smoothest running drag possible in a reel less than $250

bummer. Rods are fragile, though, and it doesn't take much pressure in the wrong direction to do that, especially with extra fast blanks. I see guys high sticking their rods on fish or snags, practically trying to double it over. It doesn't help fight the fish or free the lure, but it will snap your favorite high dollar rod like a pencil. Live and learn, brother.

If they've been caught before and their highly sophisticated fish eyes saw it, I think their little ganglionic fish brains will scream "DANGER!" the next time they see it.

Hence the rise of all these ultra stiff extra fast blanks, which hinder castability, bait placement, fish fighting ability, and durability. Much better to get your give out of your rod and not your line, especially on a long cast.

I probably deserve one...

right on. I get some of those plain cork ones for my t3 and put those on one of tatulas if they weren't so high.

what about those ultra minimalist metal ones?

those lexas are a good choice. They are smooth and cast really well. There is no centrifugal brake to worry about. Just remember too much braking and spool tension is better than too little. I will say I'm not sure about the spool bearings on those. I took care of mine and blew them out anyway. For $50 though, its a great deal. And yes, once you really get to know your baitcaster, you wont wanna pick that spinning rod back up and start trying to justify spending hundreds of dollars on a finesse baitcasting setup so you don't have to.