Further North

You've got a long, long way to go. ...and a really, really sad attitude. Gotta be a hard way to live, but if it works for you, have at it...

Why all the attempts to get people to disagree with you? This is the 2nd one this week that I've seen... -------------------------------------------------- To answer the original question: Whatever feels right to you. I'm right handed, cast right handed, keep the rod in that hand and crank the handle with my left hand. I don' like switching the rod to the other hand, can see no benefit to it.

Thanks - good info. One thing: I use an FG knot to tie on leaders...it's not thick and lacks that hat mono tag end. ...I don't understand anyone who says (or thinks) other fishermen are nuts for not using what they use. That's just dumb. I can learn something from anyone, and most of those things make me a better fisherman...even if it's just something to not do. Thanks - that looks similar to a lot of the Canadian water I fish, which is why I use leaders.

Why? Use what you want and enjoy. I agree with all above who say it's personal preference. I run braid on everything, use mono and fluorocarbon and hybrid leaders as needed (and sometimes tieable wire leaders).

There's one other difference, and it's the biggest reason I'm planning on upgrading: you can raise and lower the depth of the motor without having to go to the bow and fight with that !@#$%^& depth adjustment collar. What I marked in red: That, right there, is why I run a 36 volt system on an 1850 Crestliner. I could "get by" with an 80# version...but for the price difference, it was a no-brainer for me to go up to the 101 lb. motor. Add extended battery life, and it's not even worth thinking about, for me. Probably not worth it, IMO Everything about the new motors is so much better. You'd be getting a lot more than smooth steering with the newer motor.

You're gonna get lots of opinions is my bet. Good gosh, yes. Much, much better. Everything the folks above mention and more. You bet: Minn Kota Terrova with iPilot and Link Minn Kota Ultera with iPilot and Link Motor Guide Xi5 Impossible to go wrong with any of them...but they're pricey. What do they get you for the money? The ability to not worry much about boat control and spend your time fishing instead of futzing with the trolling motor.

When my carpet gets shot, I'm going to vinyl. If I had wood decks, I'd replace them with King StarBoard AS in a heartbeat. Expensive and a little bit of a weight penalty...but I'd never have to do it again. http://www.kingplastic.com/products/king-starboard-as/ There are other similar products out there as well.

I agree 100% on going SS if possible. Oddly, I've found that props for my Suzuki seem to come in every pitch...which is why I tried the 20, 21 and 22.

Specs for the DF115: http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%20Lines/Outboard%20Motors/Products/DF115/2012/DF115A.aspx Way2Slow's got it regarding the gear ratio - 'Zukes are a little weird that way. My DF140 has a 6200 RPM redline with the same gear ratio and loves a 22p prop. Depending on how many people on board or what I'm doing I have also used a 21P and a 20p. I'm running an '05 Crestliner CMV 1850 with the Johnson version of the DF140, and with the bigger boat see about that same top speed...that 20p will have my motor running right at redline. Edit: I forgot...Suzuki's seem to like larger diameter props...that's part of why they go with the gear ratio.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JF8U0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Techflex+clean+cut http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Techflex&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3ATechflex The clean cut works better than the other kind, but costs a little more. You need to size it to what kind of rods you are making the sleeve for; the 1 1/2" worked great for my ML St. Croix Spinning Rod, the 1", or even the 3/4" will be OK for casting rods. Some colors of the non-Clean Cut seem tighter than others. Dunno why. I rend to cut them too long...when I make new ones, I'll cut them so that a lure stuck in the bait keeper is outside the sleeve. My process goes like this: Measure Techflex along rod. Leave a good inch and a half at tip to cover with shrink tubing. I go about 2" at the reel end to fold over. Cut to length. I use regular scissors, but you can get some kind of heated blade thingy that is supposed to work better. Fold tip end in on itself until you can cram it inside some heavy duty 1/2" shrink tubing. Make sure a little of the Techflex is sticking out the end....call it 1/4" Shrink the shrink tubing I use a propane torch because it's what I have. Works great. You'll want to melt the exposed end of the Techflex. You can run a couple heavy stitches through the shrunken shrink tubing to make sure the tip stays on...I don't bother. I've only had one fall off and it's easy enough to replace. Hit the reel end, lightly, with a torch. Fold the reel end over (I go outside) and crease it aggressively. On my latest versions, I fold it over twice to keep the cut end inside...but I'm not sure that's needed. I tried a few folded to the inside with the non-clean-cut Techflex...but that seems to like to crawl up inside itself and then I have to pull it out. The first one might take 10 minutes...but after that it's around 5 minutes apiece.

I'm with you... How's that old joke go? She, "Who are you going to please with that?" He, "Myself."

Thanks - I'll go back and edit. Fat fingered it.

Saying the same thing over and over does nothing to further anyone's understanding...maybe it makes you feel better? ...and you are wrong within the context of what I wrote...This says it perfectly:

I missed this last night - good looking set up, more for non-fly-fishing folks. As long as the pack weight doesn't get carried in the part of your back that hurts, it should be OK...and the waist bet should help with that.

Good luck in your search - feel free to PM me if you have any questions you want to ask off line.

Where you fish is more important than what you use when it's windy. Find the places where the wind is bashing the bait fish into shore, and if there's a mud line, fish it.

Yup...I was there a few years back. Take a look at those last two I posted - they might work for you.

They do...but look around and see what's out there - I'm in NW WI, not too far from you and fish a lot of similar water, I can't take all my stuff with me (that's what the boat is for!) but I can easily carry what I'll use on the river for a day.

Here we go on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORVIS-GALE-FORCE-SLING-PACK-/121897734339?hash=item1c61abd0c3:g:BfYAAOSw~OVWxMNr And a Simms Waypoints @ $115: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIMMS-Waypoints-Fly-Fishing-Tackle-Gear-Sling-Bag-Pack-Gunmetal-Grey-Large-New-/191787039790?hash=item2ca765fc2e:g:-fYAAOSw5dNWno3T 18” x 10” x 9.5”

I have this one, not sold any longer by Orvis...but they're around if you look: http://www.orvis.com/p/gale-force-sling-pack/4h1p 16" x 10.5" x 6"...I use it for my toothy fish wading. It'll hold a couple 3600s...but as above, I've switched over to smaller boxes as I find them more user friendly for me.

cgolf...one of my sling packs (no longer made, but you can find them around on Amazon or eBay if you look) will hold a couple 3600s. I use smaller boxes - again, swiped from the trout guys ans they've pretty well got this stuff nailed - because I find them easier to use. I like the bigger fly boxes for streamers - they are usually waterproof and easy to hold with one hand while standing fanny deep in a river. I keep an eye open at Sierra Trading Post and snag them when they come up for nutty discounts. Here's a "regular" fishing pack at Sierra Trading Post, also by Simms: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/simms-headwaters-1and2-day-hydration-backpack~p~104tj/?filterString=fishing-bags-and-tackle-boxes~d~43%2F&colorFamily=02 Hard to beat for $70.... Simms makes GREAT gear, really made with fishermen in mind, IMO.

Jim, I love the comfort - as I mentioned, the weight stays up where it doesn't bother my lower back at all. I often spend all day on the river, fishing, wading, etc...and I'd take the sling pack over anything else I've tried. Works great for me.

I have three sling packs for my wading river fishing - all happen to be Orvis, but good ones are made by plenty of other companies. I like the following: They go over one shoulder out of the way of my rod hand They have a secondary belt that keeps them from slipping around when I bend down to net a fish They have a place to attach a net (I use a large trout net for smallies in rivers) They pull around front to access what I need when I need it without having to wade to shore Two of them have flip out places to hold lures, etc, while I tie on a new one. They have places to hang the wet lures for drying Two of them have good spots to tuck a water bottle or two They ride high up between my shoulder blades and keep the weight off my lower back...I mostly forget they are there. They come in all kinds of sizes, depending on what you want to do for the day...I keep one set up fro trout, one for smallies, one for toothy fish. Here's one that's better than the one's I have, IMO: http://www.orvis.com/p/safe-passage-guide-sling-pack/14zh Here's another from Simms: http://www.simmsfishing.com/headwaters-large-sling-pack.html Here's one from Fishpond: http://www.fishpondusa.com/product/detail/thunderhead-sling/2427

I buy my boats used, with low hours, proven maintenance records and full inspection by a dealer I trust. I just can't wrap my head around eating the depreciation. I do the same with my vehicles. It just makes sense to me. I can afford to buy new...but I'd rather have that cash for retirement, or gear, or trips somewhere interesting to fish...or whatever. I also enjoy the "hunt" for really good used stuff at great prices...I get a charge out of that. Some folks like new because they feel like they know exactly what they are getting, and have a lot of pride in their boats and gear - that makes a lot of sense too. I'm not one to pick at others choices, or to claim my way is the only way, or the best way...or even a good way for other people...I just know it works best for me. Financing them? Horses for courses. What works for one person, in one situation, isn't the best for others. When I bought the boat I have now...I was sitting on two other boats...but it wasn't going to be there long...so I bought it, opened a line of credit, and didn't pay a dime on it for about 5 months while I sold the other two boats...then I paid off the line of credit, including the couple hundred dollars in interest. Cheap at twice the price as I saved over $25K over the price of a new boat anywhere even close to what I got, 8 years old with 3.5 hours on the motor and so clean you could eat out of the bilge:

I thought I wanted rod tubes in my center rod locker...until I tried to put them in myself and realized a few things: They really limit the number of rods I can store. It's a PITA to get the rods on the bottom out. Since the back of my rod locker is solid and does not lift out...I have to bend the rods to get them in and out. Rod tubes create a strict maximum on rod length...where without them I can angle a slightly longer rod to one side to get it in. ...So I use sleeves custom made for each rod with the raw material purchased from Amazon and some heavy duty shrink tubing. Takes about 5 minutes to make one. All that said...I completely get why some folks like the built in tubes. Way more organized.