MickD

I only used the word "monomer" because it was used in a previous post. Monomer: "a molecule that can be bonded to other identical molecules to form a polymer." I agree. There is most likely no single molecule line. I think this one of the strings that is getting way more complex than necessary. If you want your leader to not sink, use no leader or monofilament. If you don't care about buoyancy, use monofilament or florocarbon. Materials sold as "leader material" are generally harder and stiffer than materials sold as "line."

Every time I forget that I have FC leader on an outfit and use a pop-R or Chug Bug, and fish it fairly slowly, the leader sinks and screws up the presentation. If a fast retrieve, or walking the dog, I agree no problem. With mono, no problem with any retrieve. On my usual surface outfit, I simply use pure mono all the way. It serves also to slow me down on the hook set. Doesn't really slow my reaction, but the stretch helps slow the reaction at the lure.

If either of the monomers is FC the specific gravity will be proportionally increased according to the percentage of the FC used in the co-polymer line, right? If true, then co-polymer lines (with FC in them, which is really, I think, most all lines described as co-polymer lines) will sink faster than mono, which means their suitability for surface lures is not ideal. Mono is the answer. Or no leader (braid's specific gravity, except for those with the Gore fiber or other weighting scheme, is about the same as mono and water).

I think that co-poly is somewhere between FC and mono for specific gravity, so it too will sink, although slower than FC. Mono = about neutral buoyancy, FC = about 1.5 times the specific gravity of mono. Better to go no leader or just about any mono. Not rocket science. Leader grade monos are harder, more resistant to abrasion/rocks/etc, have the advantage of reducing tangles on some lures like blade baits.

. . . and all those car colors! We only need black! :-)

I also have trouble with the FG on light lines, but the good news is that you don't need the small size advantage of the FG on lighter lines. No way am I going to fool around trying to keep 30 turns straight and in good form when on the lighter lines the double uni is easy to tie, is reliable and goes through the smallest micros just fine. Keep what you are trying to accomplish in mind - a solid, reliable, easy to tie knot that cleanly goes through the guides.

I have one fairly new Patriarch and it seems like a really high quality, smooth, quiet, reel. The only thing that I find that is troublesome is that the dimension from the stem to the spool lip seems larger (more reach to the lip) than Daiwas and Shimanos. Not a show stopper, but something to be considered, check them out in a store and assure yourself that they fit you OK.

One thing to be careful of when buying rubber is the depth of the net. I bought one without paying much attention, and it's too shallow. Larger fish often can flip out of it. Look for one with a deep "basket." They are very nice with respect to getting hooks out, and I expect they are very gentle to the fish, being as soft and smooth as they are.

Replace the whole grip/seat/butt knob with a cork Tennessee grip. Use electrical tape applied with considerable tension to mount the reel, then go over the complete grip, including the area with the elect tape, with Winn Wrap.

I find that "really cheap" Stradics are really beat up used reels or from questionable sellers. A past model Pflueger Patriarch, new, is probably as good as it gets for $150. Shimanos and Daiwas are very good, but part of their price comes from the reputation. Pflueger has not yet built that reputation, but is coming on, and their reels are very good values.

We use vinegar on our faucets and coffee pots and it works well. I tried using CLR on an isolated part of the engine today, and it appears to work very well even when diluted about 8 to 1 with water. However, I'm concerned it may have some long term detrimental effect since protective gloves and water rinse are recommended. It may be that using something like it or vinegar to get the boat initially clean, then on a regular basis use Slick Mist is the way to go.

I'm not saying that. What I'm saying is that it might be possible that defeating the bail closure device could compromise the reeling of line with the bail manually closed. I'm not saying it would happen, but it is conceivable that the device that closes the bail could keep it properly in position when reeling with the bail closed. Defeating it could allow the bail to open when reeling with the bail closed. There also is the possibility that defeating it will affect warranty and resale value. There is no reason that I can see to justify defeating it when you can simply bump the bail to close it.

Quote me on this post, then as you are writing on the reply form, which will have this text on it, look right below where you are to write. As I write this it is right below here, to the right of the paper clip image.

Thanks for all the suggestions; I knew you would have some very good recommendations. I know how much many of you love your boats.

I'd like to find a really good cleaner for my painted aluminum boat and the engine. Being black they show the light colored water spots, and I'm having trouble getting them off. Any really effective products in your tool kits? thanks

I agree with all above, and add that it may be that making modifications might affect how the reel works when reeling in. It might compromise the bail staying in place while reeling. I don't know if that is the case, but I will not be taking that chance. I'll just close it by hand.

I agree with everything you say. Regarding weights, I used to try balancing by adding weights to the butt with a BPS system, and by the time I got one old rod back then balanced, it almost left my hand when casting once. I build my own now and use hi performance blanks (light, expensive usually-the basis of my comments on expensive and power are that expensive will get you the lightest blanks and lower power will do the same, as will shorter) and I build as light as reasonably possible for the job to be done, and I never add weight to balance. The length of the rod below the handle is dictated by what I've found works FOR ME without hanging up on my clothing. I know that YOU can tell handling a rod without the reel that it will be good or not for you. But you are a pretty experienced, expert, evaluator of what works for you. I think the reason that one can say that reel and lure weight don't seem to play a major role is that the equipment most of us use is pretty light, and the lighter it is, the less important balance is. IMHO. Good discussion.

I'll bet the rods that you say are "balanced" tend to be shorter, lighter power, and more expensive than ones that you consider not as well balanced. Do you have a 7 1/2 foot MH casting rod that you consider "balanced?" And I'll bet you use very light reels. I agree with your comment on "depending on how you define balance." However, you also mention that every rod has a balance point, which is true. It is a point that is not affected by anything. It is what it is. It is the point on the rod where the left half and the right half weigh the same. Pure physics, not opinion. And the position of the balance point on the rod will be affected by the reel attached to it unless that reel weighs zero or is placed at the exactly same point as the rod-only balance point. We don't fish with just a rod, or just a reel; we fish with an assembly made from a rod and a reel, not to mention a lure on the end of it. (Man, does that affect the "balance.") The problem in discussing balance without having the reel involved is that less experienced anglers can be misled by thinking that what he thinks is balanced in the store will also be balanced when he adds his not-so-expensive relatively heavy reel to it. And a 3/4 ounce lure.

Based on your many astute posts, I'm sure you realize but did not mention that a rod does not have "balance" on its own. The reel is part of the balance equation. And the current trend to longer rods makes achieving balance harder.

Posting a photo isn't that difficult, but you do need to know how to access the photo files you want to post, preferably from your computer. At the bottom of the post form there is the 'drag files here to attach, or choose files." When you have access to the properly sized photo files, click on the "choose files" to select the files you want posted. The "files" are the photo files for your photos, and they will be a file with a name like "xxxx.jpg" and will be in some folder on your computer. The "choose files" will open a box in which you can navigate to the folder with your files, and select them. If your files are too large, open them in any graphics program, MS Paint included. In paint, open the file, then click on "resize," and fill in the form with a percentage, like 20 percent. When you have resized it, save it. Now you have the resized file and you can attach it with the "choose files" command as described earlier. Give it a try; we would like to see your rod.

How about just posting a photo here so I don't get tangled up with ads and pop-ups, etc? Never did see the rod. The reason the rod feels more sensitive is more likely due to guide selection than the fact that it's a spiral wrap. Smaller than normal guides? Or could just be a great blank. I've done spiral wraps, but do not perceive the "torque" problem on normal rods, and cannot get used to the appearance of spiral wraps, so do all mine on top now. Except, I like spiral for bottom bouncing and trolling, though. With those techniques the torque advantage is perceivable and is worth the funny look. I know, more opinion and preference than anything else.

If the small fish are eating the NED, try the big one. If I didn't have the NED, I would have very few fish this year. But I have caught a pretty good number of fish. Partner and I took 32 smallies last week, all on the NED. I tried lipless cranks, small slow deep cranks, hard jerks, soft jerks, drop shot, tubes, wacky drop shot, surface including the Whopper Plopper, and caught zero on those. Partner tried some of the above without any success. so. . . it was the NED again that saved the day. There are a lot of very soft takes on the NED, and bass will try to swallow them. Whatever they think they think NEDs are, they want to eat them.

Sometimes they work like a champ, and others they don't work at all. My best use of them comes in fairly shallow water, especially in the spring when largemouths are in shallow bays, mid-April to mid May in central Michigan. We reel them very slowly, and even let them kiss the bottom now and then with a little pause or slow-down. Trailer and color is important. A black really lively curly-tail grub or worm tail with a Junebug skirt is good for the above fishing. They are not one of my favorite lures, but when the fish want them, I give them what they want.

The level wind guide on most reels is about 6mm diameter, 1/4 inch, much larger than the line diameter. What she did was not pay attention to the process and the line was against one side of the guide or the other for the whole process. This is really not a big deal. I'll bet if you fished it for a few days it would all even out. But if you simply go to a ball field, take it off, and reel it back in, what happened to her could happen to you unless you pay attention and correct the line lay a few times while reeling it in. By correcting the line lay I mean consciously making the line run against the side of the guide that is coming up lean on line. This is not difficult and will work fine. Regardless of reel brand or line type. This thing is getting really "overthought," in my opinion.

There is a towing spec that changes at 3500 pounds total weight. There is a great number of rigs that fall below that, and what you describe will easily be below that. This means that most mid-sized SUV's and similar "box-shaped/hatchback" vehicles, which are great all-around vehicles will easily tow and be good, versatile, family vehicles, too. And they will get much better fuel economy than any of the true trucks, regardless of size. I personally don't care for jon-boats. I really dislike how noisy they are when small waves simply lap against the bow. Just a personal thing; many have no problem with the noise. I would strongly consider a 14 or 16 foot deep V with about a 25 HP outboard and a good trolling motor. It's only a small step up from less capable rigs, and this will allow you to actually fish the bay on a good day. Even if the weather changes, it will get you home. Check Craig's list for rigs where their owners are stepping from their starter. There are a lot of boats sold on Craig's list.