MickD

While I admit there are many who disagree with me, I am not a fan of glass. Graphite can do anything that glass can do and probably do it with a lighter blank. Graphite is more sensitive, most likely lighter, and may be more tolerant of abuse than some of the glass blanks. I have no experience with the ones you suggest. Take a look at the Amtak Bushido blanks. They are very high quality, sensitive, blanks at a good price.

Looks to me, based on the replies, that any reasonable length down to about 2 feet will work just fine. I don't find length to be all that important, but I also start at about 6 feet. For some reason I just don't like it going onto the reel, and if it gets really long then the advantage of the small ID of the braid is somewhat sacrificed and the whole system gets "softer."

You can also do a double uni to attach a mono or FC leader, then the more "conventional" knots will work fine. And you won't be cutting your braid off with every lure change.

Suspicions confirmed! I really think there is a lot more to great blanks than the highest tech materials. I have an RX7 spin rod that I would swear was a very expensive blank, and it's about a $60 blank. I think the Eternity may be justified for fly rods if it really is as tough (nano tech) as advertised since fly rods (at least my 8 bonefishing) takes some abuse in the boat and fishing.

I'm far from expert, but my Helix 9 was acting up on SI, giving only partial views in some combo views, and the solution was to update to latest software. Then it was 4.0. (Or was it 1.40?) Check yours, then go to the Humminbird site for instructions on update. BE 100% SURE YOUR UNIT IS RESET TO DEFAULT SETTINGS BEFORE UPDATING. IF NOT YOU MAY HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR THEM TO FIX.

What this "ratcheting" indicates is that the threaded nut has failed under the foam. I doubt if any adhesive will fix it by itself. If you get the foam off and get to the nut I expect there are a couple of ways to make it serviceable without total rebuild. One would be to put a loop of wire over the nut, better two, and twist them tightly to provide a strong hoop over the nut. Bend over and trim the wire twists. Then cobble a cover for that, maybe cork tape + a wrap like tennis grip wrap or WinnWrap. Cover the other grip to make it match. Or first seal the crack with some kind of adhesive to prevent any epoxy from getting into the crack, then carefully apply a woven glass mat or carbon fiber sleeve (full 360 degree sleeve) to the outer surface of the nut, being sure not to get any on the threads. Then cover as in the first suggestion. If the nut has sprung open then you must wire it temporarily to close it while applying the second fix. Plastic nuts seem to fail sooner or later, so better to buy rods with steel banded nuts. Although in this case, how could one tell? Maybe DVT had a better idea.

I won't guarantee that the press and jerk method will work in this area. I can guarantee that you are going to have to do the whole operation yourself.

It is my opinion that the method you chose not to use would have worked fine. The barb would have been pre-loaded away from the nail. 1. Pinch the other two barbs down. 2. Put the loop of heavy line under the imbedded hook. 3. Press lightly on the middle of the two exposed hooks. 4. Jerk the line very fast and hard, don't chicken out. Some think that this method works only for small hooks, but it will work with pretty large hooks. I used it in Canada on a 2/0 spinnerbait trailer hook and it worked fine. No pain, no problems afterward. Of course the surest thing to do is to take it to urgent care. But as you point out, that is sometimes really inconvenient. The biggest mistake one can make is to cut the hook off too close to the skin. You did well by cutting it off well out from the skin so the cut-off end couldn't get covered with flesh. I would have even tried for a little more distance.

Must be good. I left 4 unopened bags in my car overnight and it was a little stinky in the morning.

Maintain the engine properly and 15 years will be no sweat for it. My last Suzuki 50 ran like new after 18 years, absolutely no deterioration in anything in 18 years (exc props). I expect all the brands will do that now that they have electronic fuel injection instead of carbs. Changed the lower unit lube, engine oil, plugs, and fogged it annually. New water pump impeller about every 5. (I run in clear water; if you're running in "mud" a lot , do it more often.) Outside storage is a tough pill to swallow. It really takes a toll on the boat: sun, rain, mice, tire deterioration, rusty trailer, probably a cover every couple years. Is it possible to put one of those "temporary" carport kinds of things over it? Rent a garage in the neighborhood? Move to downsize the house and upsize the pole barn? If you do, make it drive through. So easy to put the boat away. Consider an Ulterra trolling motor, power deploy and stow. REALLY better than sliced bread. Especially for those getting up in years. Money well spent. My new Lund has carpet on the upper surfaces, vinyl on the lower. Very nice.

Does the unit have latest software installed? Check your software against the latest per Humminbird. If you have to update it, make sure you have reset the unit to factory defaults. If you don't know how, read your owner's manual and consult Humminbird support on line.

I've never used a Suffix product that disappointed.

Try one of the Z-Man products, very tough/soft products. I think you'll be amazed at how durable and effective they are. When you buy, get some Ned rigs, too. I expect they will amaze you, too. Read the forum entries on how to fish them.

I have no experience with 832, but I assume it would sink, which is not what you want for surface. I have experience with Flouro leaders on Power Pro, and it doesn't work well for surface. It sinks and screws up the action of lures like Pop-R's, which get pulled downward by the leader which has sunk during the pauses. The braids which have not been designed to sink should work fine with either no leader or a mono leader.

I don't think leader grade is larger in diameter than line grade. It is stiffer and tougher, more abrasion resistant. Since it is stiffer it won't tangle on the jerk (actually on the slack line after the jerk) with blade baits as much as line grade does. If you have a presentation that requires soft line (what might that be?) then it would not be as good. Keep in mind that both FC and mono leader grade is used in crystal clear salt water all the time.

Any brand, but I like leader grade. Not much is used so a 25 yard spool lasts a long time. That link to the knot has been rendered inoperative, so if you need directions on the Alberto, send me an e-mail.

I've not used that part and am a little confused. The hood on the KDPS is floating, right?

Unless you really need stealth, stay above about 10 pound test. 6-10 is pretty fragile. Alberto is a good, small, knot, but make sure you tie it exactly correctly, with the tag end going through the loop from the correct side. Otherwise it will fail. http://www.***.com/fishing_knots/alberto-knot

Let's do a little review of the original post. Two Revo's, one with braid , one with Sensation (mono), both "work like a charm." Add a Revo and 12 # FC and he cannot cast successfully. Maybe the line isn't the issue with some people, but it sure as heck looks like it is with the poster. And with many others on the forum. Not everyone is skilled enough to make FC work. Not everyone is skilled enough to successfully drive a Farari. I'm done.

Got it, thanks. I missed the insert box. I don't think this is the same as the RyanDR was showing. Using an insert like this leaves a lot of threads exposed while the Loomis has them hidden. The Loomis has, I believe, an up-locking seat with a sleeve of cork over the threads and nut which hides the threads and nut. The method I was describing would yield a seat with a cork insert and no threads between the nut and hood, but there would be threads and nut exposed on the one end. A cork sleeve like the Fuji might be close to what RyanDR is looking for.

Can you tell me where in the Pac Bay catalog this part is shown? I cannot seem to find it in their 2016 catalog.

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Graphite_4/Quick-Lock-Recessed-Cork-Foregrip-for-Fuji-HPS

My point is that the line is an important and highly variable component in the baitcasting experience. And FC is, in my opinion, too much trouble, too expensive, too fragile, without commensurate advantages over mono. I know there are many who can handle it. I can handle it under certain circumstances, but for reliably good casting, trouble-free fishing, it's not my cup of tea. And others who are struggling to use it successfully would be better served by simply going mono. I know this opinion is not universally accepted, but I think going mono is good advice for many fishermen.

You can almost match this by getting a skeleton component set, size 17 to make it a little larger than the usual 16, and construct your seat assembly from that set + a custom machined (I use a drill press and sandpaper, not as good as a lathe, but I have no lathe) cork insert. If the insert OD is such that the hood clears the insert, its length is not that critical. But if the insert is larger than that, the most important dimension is the length-the insert should be just a little shorter than the dimension between the hoods when your planned reel is installed. That ensures the reel will be clamped tightly. If the insert is too long you won't be able to tighten the reel down. This seat looks like it must have a cork covered nut, a nut covered by a cork sleeve. A long sleeve of cork coming from the rear. The front hood is fixed, right. Getting the big ID on a cylinder of cork is the challenge in exactly matching it. Unless you can find a component like that-Loomis must get them somewhere. Another challenge is getting the cork of the grip to match the cork of the sleeve and insert. If you can make them yourself out of rings, you can get the match. Fuji has decorative carbon fiber nut cover/sleeves, but not cork. I've done a similar seat except for the nut sleeve, and it is a very comfortable seat. Let me know if you figure out how to match it.

It's not the Revo, it's the line.