MickD

They have to have that discipline in their operations. They cannot just jump when someone calls and says there is a error and it must be changed. While you may be reliable, I can assure you that not all people are.

I believe that spin casters cast heavier mono line better than spinning reels, without the backlash problems of baitcasters. Which means they would be ideal for dock skipping when you want to be able to quickly control a fish (heavy line). For most of us, skipping with a baitcaster is difficult if not impossible.

I know about the Ulterra since I own one. I was making the case for two of its nicest features. Now that I have used it, will never go back. Even though it's pretty expensive. also nice to have both remote and foot pedal control.

Good comments on the issue being managing the twist, not controlling it. I use mostly 15 or lighter braid, and I can see the twist in it after a while, but it seldom causes a problem like it does with something like 10 pound mono. The way some reels of the past have broken bail springs, I can why many choose to do it manually. From my experience reels are tougher now and don't tend to break the springs like those old Mitchells did. Now that we've tossed this around a while, anybody else have spinning reels where the directions for spooling the reels say to simply run it off the source spool with the source spool rotating rather than taking it off the end opposite from what the reel is rotating? I have a couple Shimanos that say that, and I'm curious if anyone has any idea how something as basic as one twist for every rotation of the bail can be defeated by an anti-twist design of the line pickup roller, the only thing that contacts the line. I just don't see it. Interesting discussion.

Unless it's not a very dense bait ball. If it is not attached to the bottom, it's a pretty good clue. If it's sort of pyramid shaped and goes right to the bottom, most likely weeds. If bringing your lure though the area makes minnows break the surface, then that's another good clue that it's a bait ball. After correlating sonar returns with enough experiences like that, one can gain confidence. I'm no expert either, but these are some of the things I look for.

I agree it's better for the reel to close it by hand, what I'm asking about is the line twist issue, or non-issue. Why do you think that line twist is worse if you let the reel close the bail? Sometimes what we worry about are not valid worries. Someone said something as if it is fact, and we believe it and worry. There very well could be line twist caused by letting the reel close the bail, but I've heard nothing here or anywhere else that explains why this should be true.

Can anyone tell me the mechanics of using the reel to close the bail causing line twist? I have always believed that for every loop of line going out, every rotation of the bail coming in will cancel the twist caused by the loop going out. Seems like it's all one to one regardless of the method. What am I missing?

Power deploy and stow from anywhere in the boat is pretty darned nice. As is spot lock. And probably other features I haven't even figured out yet.

Which indicates that the zinkerz's are not really elaztech?, most likely not as buoyant? Or are they some other grub/stick cut in half? These things are really not that expensive, last for many fish, the original jigs are made the way they are to take advantage of the buoyancy of the grub. I doubt if anyone is saving a significant amount of money or catching any more fish than if they just fished the original system. When they scrunch up, just pull them straight. If they get really old and gap at the jighead, just a drop of superglue will fix it.

One can often find the past models of the Pfluegers on Ebay or big box stores on sale, too. I have the Patriarch which I got for about 50% and it is a very nice reel. Stradics are very nice, but you won't find many deals on them. If I were to buy a reel right now, I'd look for discount Pfluegers.

You should check to see what software is on it, and if not 1.46, update it and download the new maps. Be sure to reset all settings to factory defaults before doing this. Instructions are on Humminbird customer service site. Since the new software and maps are dated about 7/5/17 it is most likely not up to date. The map is much improved over the old one, so worth the trouble.

When you use a black sharpie you don't simply color all of the last few feet, you make the line look mottled which works like camo. I'm not sure it really makes a difference on the positive side, but I've never seen or heard that it hurts. Lure size depends on what the fish wants. The tiny Ned rig has taken some very large fish. I caught a 6 inch smallmouth the other day on a 3 inch glide rap. It's not unusual at all to catch largemouths of 10-15 inches on an eight inch worm.

Mono stretch is not a problem when you are using it for 4-6 feet of leader. If that is your mono stretch problem, I just don't understand. The uni to uni knot is very easy when you get practiced, so I suggest you sit in front of the TV and tie a whole bunch of mono/FC leader material to braid. You will be surprised how easy it is when you "get it." The FG for braid to braid is something I've never considered or tried, and it is not an easy knot for many people. It is the smallest knot, so the line catching on the connection knot would probably not be an issue. Thinking long term, I'd buy enough new braid to fill the spool (you can minimize the amount of braid required by using just about anything for backing to partially fill the spool) then add mono or FC leader material, and as mentioned above, you will not be shortening your braid by cutting off lures and tying on new ones. You will shorten the leader, which can easily be replaced when it's too short. Contrary to a lot of beliefs, mono and FC are not that much different for stretch, and both stretch significantly more than braid. But when used as a leader, it is not at all too stretchy.

I have yet to find a double line knot that ties easily, and really don't think I need to. Trilene is easy, very strong, for lures, snaps, hooks, terminal stuff. Double uni for leaders to line where the size of knot isn't an issue, FG where it is. All three of these is pretty efficient for not using up a lot of line, and they don't care how many hooks there are on a lure, still easy.

Comments on line not lying down and rod buzzing when lifted indicate you're close to a lightning situation, and as mentioned, it doesn't have to be clearly a thunderstorm environment. It can happen miles from the storm . I repeat to emphasize the danger which one can find himself in, even without a thunderstorm. If you point your rod up and hear the buzz, get the heck out of there immediately.

Took the fully cleaned up and waxed boat out yesterday, today I used the Lucas mist on it, took only about 15 minutes and it looks like new. So the initial cleanup with dilute CLR, then Slick Mist wax resulted in like new appearance. Then the next time out, only the Slick Mist returned it to like new. Good process, thanks for the tips.

Sorry I cannot help. This is one of the reasons I let the pros do the serious service work. Reels are so complex today that I think it good judgment to let the pros do anything that requires dis-assembly more than taking the side plates off for access to the first layer, or changing level wind pawls. It's just too easy to screw it up. If you're like I am.

OK, you all can stop beating on me now. Original poster, if you don't have to replace that rod, it most likely can be fixed and will be better than new (no defect in repaired rod). I expect you'll have to send it back, but if not. . . If you need details post again. ' You could if you're a crook.

I only mentioned the previous damage issue since many don't understand just how fragile modern high modulus rods can be. Of course I have no way of knowing what happened to yours. Wow, not a great warranty.

When rods break under conditions you describe it is often caused by previous un-noticed damage, like striking the edge of a boat, stepped on, got whacked by another rod or a lure flying back, etc. Doesn't take much, if struck just right. Or, if the rod is pretty new and hadn't been cast much before, could just be a defect.

I do believe that micros result in a longer cast, but probably more important is the fact that lighter guides give a faster, more sensitive rod. There are disadvantages. They freeze up more easily than larger guides if you're fishing around 32F, and they will not pass just any knot. You have to be more careful about the knot and the pound test of the line and leader to be sure the knot will pass cleanly. I build all my rods today, and all have micros.

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I am interested in any data that says 105F is a problem for rod blanks. I know from experience as an auto engineer that the inside of a car gets to about 140F when soaked in the sun at around 100F ambient, and at least that will affect a hot glued tiptop. But I really think that blanks can take higher temps than 105F before being affected. Keeping rods from being subjected to "high temps" is good common sense, but I doubt if 104F will cause any problems. I also would like to see data that indicates that temps below 32F are a problem. Pretty convenient that the resins are affected by the temp of the freezing point of water. I keep my rods and reels in a pole barn, lots of exposure to temps of less than 32F, and I have both graphite rods dating from the 70's and glass rods dating from the 50's and they seem to be unaffected by the cold. I had a boss one time who said "Show me your data. Only God needs no data."

If you are going to buy motor only, consider Suzuki. My 50HP Suzuki was like new after 18 years, always started instantly and cleanly even the first start of the new year, and was quieter than my new 60HP Merc, both 4 strokes. Since Suzuki has no connection with a major boat company, you generally cannot get them as a package. But they are great engines.

I expect that on a lake with a lot of boat traffic the bass get used to it. Conversely, on a wilderness lake it very well may be the opposite. On Saginaw Bay and Lake St. Clair smallmouth bass often are found (active, too) in the dredged canals that boats use for access to launches. It is not unusual to fish these, getting out of the way of the larger boats as they use the canals, and then go back in to fish. The fish don't seem to mind. I have speculated that the boats may disorient baitfish making them easier prey for the bass. Also, if largemouths were concerned about boats they probably wouldn't hang out under docks. In this case it seems that they get spooked by traffic, but not for long. In a local largemouth lake the usual path for the wakeboat business goes through about 5 feet of water and the weeds are cut down in that path. Like a "road" up and down the lake, with no weeds but a couple significant edges. The edge of that path is a good spot to find largemouths, although I've not caught a big one there. That being said, I think that "unusual" boat traffic would alarm them, like fast motoring in an area where it usually is not done. But I'm not a bass. We will have to find a bass to interview.