Way2slow

I change all the plug wires when one wire starts causing a problem. I've had motors from the 80's still running their original wires, and I've put new wires on a motor that caused problems within a few hours. I change plugs every 50 to 75 hours, water pump impellers every two to three years, grease and lube it twice a year, and change LU lube and do the trailer bearings every fall when my fishing has slowed drastically. All I'm doing then is chasing strippers when the water is cold enough for them to move into the shallower channels.

Mint julep also works for a numer of different critters. It,s not poisenous and the can't stand the smell.

I keep a rope with those SS hooks that will latch on each end. I hook one end in the front eye on the boat and the other end in the eye on the rear off the trailer where I hook the tie down strap. I back the boat in, let it clear the trailer and then ease forward until the trailer is far enough out of the water I can walk behind it. The boat is safely tethered to the trailer about 20 feet back. All I have to do is un-clip it, pull and secure it and go park my truck. If you can find a rope that floats, it greatly reduces the chances of the rope getting hung on the bunks, which I have happen a couple of times. One correction, I said the boat was safely tethered 20 feet behind. Not exactly, especially if you pull forward too fast, it will beat you to the back of the trailer.

I love when someone starts off with "I just bought" and then asking for opinions. It's too late at that point for our opinions to matter. At that point you should be giving us your opinion. It should start off with "I'm looking at buying". This is at the point when others opinions might matter, not after the fact. After I've bought something, it's mine, I could care less what others think about it.

My first check would be the linkage and cable adjustment. Start by removing cowl and take the shift cable off and manually shift it by the linkage. See if it fully engages each time you shift it. If it does, then the problem is probably in the cable adjustment or the control head. If it still gives a problem find the vertical rod under the front of the power head. Shift it to forward, watching the vertical rod, the see if you can push the rod a little more and get it to go in gear. If so, then the linkage has a problem or needs adjusting. If all these checks don't find the problem, it may be in the lower unit. All this can be checked while on a hose. I recommend you check it with it idling so you don't jam/force the gears.

Actually, if it didn't go to thr cord, it probably didn't hurt it. The rubber does nothing to add strength, it's only protecting the cord. Being on the outer edge, that area has the most rubber of any area on the tire. If it's a tandem axle, I would run it if not extremely deep.. If nothing else it will probably make a better spare, most spares have been there so long, they're dry rotted.

Oops, I thought you were running an Ali, but thy both have that inherent seat time requirement before you can get it maxed out. I know I'm off the subject but a little info about a Bullet. About five years ago, we put one of my power heads on a good friends, friends, Bullet while his was being rebuilt. His was blue printed and setup by Paul Nichols with a Johnson modified 225HO with Wayne Taylor, shorty mid section, Merc Sporter LU, 14" jack plate, Rich Boger prop and ran 93 mph. With my power head, it ran 107. Then he was crying because he had someone else building his powerhead, and I refused to touch behind someone else. So it don't just take one of those Black motors to make a go fast boat.

That's was why I said if it's an older boat without a VIN, you would have to lie and say it has been in your family for many years. Otherwise, you will have to produce documentation from the last owner, which is almost impossible unless you know them. As for trying to say it's homemade, a lot of times they will want to inspect it and it' pretty easy tell if a jon is homemade or not. If that's not your cup of tea, forget trying to put a motor of any type on it.

J Francho I thought they called yours the Allison Stroll. Like most anything else about a boat, setup is critical when dealing with chine walk. There's a hole list of things you need to do to help cure/prevent it. The right Prop and engine height are just pieces to the puzzle, but before you start adjusting engine height, make sure you have a good, working water pressure gauge and make sure your pressure does not drop below the manufactures minimum recommended pressure. Be sure you check it in a turn, and not just running straight.

My top of the line, jon boat cover.

That's kind of over kill. SeaFoam does everything Stabil will do and then some. I don't run old gas, period, don't care how good or how long an additive is suppose to be good for, but SeaFoam is said to be good for a year. I run SeaFoam to help keep the carbon and deposit off the rings and pistons, not for the gas stabilization. If my boat has gone a couple of months without being used, I pump what gas is in it out (there's where electric fuel pumps are worth their weight in gold) and put fresh gas in. I only put in what I think I going to burn and try to make sure there's not more than a couple of gallons left in the tank. The biggest problem with letting gas sit, beside it breaking down, which a stabilizer will help prevent, is the octane. I live in the south, boats outside under a canvas cover and it gets pretty dang hot in the summer. The octane evaporates out the gas very quickly under those conditions, even with stabilizer. In as little as four weeks, it can be low enough to damage many of these newer motors, and the very old motors that have high compression for the gas that was available during their day. Now, motors made in the 80's and on up to the computer controlled motors of today, they have a little fudge factor to allow for this junk gas we have now. Even in the 90's and on, some motors required 91-93 octane and those can get very expensive if you trying to run old gas in them. For me, having a couple extra gallons of gas to use in the mower etc, is a lot cheaper than a blown power head.

Says right on that bottle its a stabalizer, should be all you need.

I don't run Yama-Lube, it's supposed to be good stuff, and I think it has a stabilizer, check the bottle and see. If it does, I would not worry about Stabil. Which I don't use either, SeaFoam has been my choice for many years, very good stuff.

Flipping it over and leaving it upside down is about the beat cover I've found.

If you want to put a motor on it, I'm pretty sure Florida is going to require you to register the boat. Registering is different from getting a title. The registration just assigns the numbers needed so you can use it with a motor. If it has a VIN, usually on the right rear, I'm not sure there is much you can do. Game and Fish would have to tell you how to go about that one. Now, if it's old enough that it does not have a VIN, then it's just a matter of doing a little lying. Generally, they have a form you fill out and just say it's an old boat that has been in the family for many years, and just used on private farm ponds. Of course they are going to say that even on private ponds if it used a motor, you was still suppose to have registered it, but just say I didn't know that. Now you would like to put a motor on it to use it on public waters and need to register it. Normally, after you do this, all you have to do is sign the form right of above or below the clause that this is true and there is an ungodly fine and possible jail time if you are lying. The reason you don't say you never used a motor on it, they will probably want to inspect it and it will most likely have transom marks where a motor has been on it many times.

Hot terminal/nut is a caused by a bad connection. If you insist on using wing nuts, use a pair of pliers to tighten them. Also, make sure the terminal is clean. If the cable lug is crimped on, it could be a bad crimp. If it is crimped, might want to look at get a solder on lug and replace it, and solder the lugs on. Any way, it was either loose, dirty or the crimp was bad on the cable. I have had the studs leaded into the battery have bad connections and actually melt themselves out, but that is rare. As for the trickle charge every time, that's not good for the battery. You should be charging it at approx. 10% of it's rated capacity, 8 - 10 amps normally.

Both are DC motors, the difference is how the voltage is applied. Big difference between straight DC and PWM. With PWM, it's being switched on and off, not a steady on voltage.

First off, they don't use resistors to drop the voltage. I think They do it by selecting different turn counts on the windings, basically making it five different size motors, not just one motor a changing resistors. Even being water cooled, you would be amazed just how large that motor would have to be if they tried to use restores to drop the voltage. For max run time, you want to go with a variable speed motor instead of a select speed type. On max, both draw the same current for the same size motor, but at lower settings, the variable speed uses PWM or similar circuit and develops the same thrust using much less current.

No, about half that. A small battery with that heavy a load would only be about 50% efficient. Amp hours on the label DO NOT directly equate to run time on the TM. Most batteries are rated using the 20 hour rating method, which means they are only drawing 4-5 amps during the test. As the amp load increases the batteries efficiency decreases. The smaller the battery, the less efficient it is with a heavy load. Group 24's are only about 75 Ah @ a 20hr rating. With a 40 amp load, it probably won't last an hour. Understand also, that's not maintaing the same speed as when you first start. As the batteries charge state decreases, so does your speed. When you get to it's 11.8 volts recommended minimum charge level, you are going to be barely moving, so you had better hope the wind is not blowing.

I doubt you can get out of paying the bill without getting taken to small claims court. You might be able to work out some kind of a discount, after all, you were seriously over charged, even though you were given a quote that you agreed to before the work was done. You've just learned why I say it a scary situation taking a motor in for repair, there are just not that many "good" mechanics. This guy lost all credibility with the response he gave you when you asked about pre-mixing. FYI, to bypass the VRO, all you have to do is unplug the 4 or 5 pin connector going to it so it doesn't make the alarm sound and mix the oil in the tank at a 50:1 ratio. Just be sure you take one of the main jet plugs out of a carb and pump enough gas to get the pre-mixed through the system. Forgot to mention, don't forget to drain or remove the oil tank or it will double oil until the tanks is empty. Now, with all this said, it was better, that you replaced yours than to continue running with it. The new one they installed is a CRO unit and are basically bullet proof, way more reliable than than the one you had. Plus, I personally think pre-mixing sucks, even though I have to with my modified motors.

Sears parts used stock some parts for the Tecumseh engines they used on the Game Fishers, not sure about a Tanaka, that's a new one on me. I would call them with the model and serial number, might get lucky.

The hole in your pic may have been for a grease fitting. Find a parts schematic,

If it has the transducer, mounting bracket and cables, I would say go for it.

The best thread lock for plastic/composites is medium SuperGlue, not the real thin stuff. As you have learned the hard way, NEVER apply Loctite to plastics/composites. Never tried 5200 but don't see why it wouldn't work also, probably even better, but as mentioned, it will be permanent, where the super glue you do stand a chance at getting it loose again. A little heat might let you take the 5200 apart again.

What you are referring to is normally called a clevis pin. I would find a parts schematic or have the dealer check, I think you will find there's suppose to be a lock ring of some sort on it to keep it from being able to back out. If the there is a shallow grove around the small end, you can bet there is. If it has a hole through the end of it, it's should have a cottor pin through it. May even have a set screw, but there should be some type of locking device to keep it from backing out Don't do much with black motors so can't give you any better info than that.