Way2slow

I have it and seldom use it. Holding on windy points and long sections of rip-rap is where I use it most. Most coves have too many twist and turns to follow.

Actually, I many of the motors in recent years breaks the hours down into the different rpm ranges the motor was operated at. It's very common to see half the hours were at below 2000 rpm. You just have to have the dearer pull them off for you with their computer. I would do my homework on the actual motors. Some models have much better reviews than others from the same manufacture. One manufacture may for the same size and style motor than another with similar motor. Don't get hung up on it having to be a particular make. Look for the one with thee most remaining factory warrenty, and has the best reviews for the size.

Tach and water pressure guage, don't screw with setup without them.

There are concoctions you can use that help, but it's going to take a cable to fix it. 75% Trans fluid and 25% brake fluid has always been my best brew. You will need to get the cable out of the motor and figure a way to get the solution into the cable and keep working the cable in and out as you do this. Then after you have screwed with it for a couple of hours you will probably wonder why you didn't just go ahead a order a cable. Also a little food for thought. The cable is tight because it's rusty, rusty metal tends to break. If one of the strands breaks into and balls up inside it can lock the steering. Not a very fun experience if the boat is moving.

Looking at the pics, my guess would be it does have a charging system. If it's working, it's easy enough to find out. Take a battery voltage reading with a digital before starting, While it's running at 2000 rpm or more, check your battery voltage again, if it's more than before starting, it has a charging system. Looked at the parts breakdown and it shows it does. You have to remember though, it's going to be a vary small one, 10-15 amps max.

My two modified Johnson's dino at 326hp and 318hp, the Evinrude is a stock 225 Ficht, and all three burn approx 22 gallons per hour at WOT The Johnsons are just pushing it 10 mph faster than the Rude, 83 vs 73 mph..

Help depends on how much you already know. First thing is to do a leak-down test, or compression test if you can't do a leak-down. All six cylinders should be within 5% from the highest to lowest, absolutely no more than 10%. The next thing is going to require be able to read plugs. After running at WOT, (down the lake) for about three minutes or more, then pulling the kill switch or shutting it off without letting off. It's best to do the shut down while heading toward the ramp. It's a lot easier when you are not used to pulling plugs on the water to load the boat and get it on dry land. You have to load without cranking motor. Pull each plug and check the color, they all should be the same color, usually about the same color as a brown paper bag or a little lighter. If any are dark or black, that cylinder has a problem. Keep track of the plugs so you know which cylinder each one came out of. You might start with replacing the plugs, but not until you have read the old ones. New plugs are vry hard to read unless you are an expert at it.

That doesn't sound good. Should not be anything moving around inside. I will also say, I have fallen out with ProMariner. For years, that's all I ran, then they started having them built in China. All three of the Chinese built, ProTourney 300's I've had have failed too soon, and when I sent them back for repair, they've told me they were non repairable, all they could do is allow me a small credit toward the purchase of a new one, the last one was only four years old. That's over $100 per year just to charge the batteries. I just told them they could just keep that one, I would not be using any more of their chargers.

With the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" attitude, means it will probably be broke at the worst possible time and cost tons more, when dealing with routine maintenance items, That's like waiting for the timing belt in an engine to break before replaceing it, and it bends every valve in the head, or the serpentine belt to break and fry the engine. I guess we wait until our axle is sliding on the highway before we decide it's time to check and pack the wheel bearings I replace my water pump impellers every three years. A couple hours of work and the the minor cost of the impeller is a hellava lot less than the trouble one can cause if it goes bad. Personally, I fell it's better to fix it before it does break, that's why they are called serviceable or routine maintenance items.

As long as there was oil in the tank, I doubt you did anything but make a big mess to clean up. The low/no oli alarm should have sounded if it got low enough to damage motor. I think I would have a word with that dealer though. Let him know if you expected that kind of service, most any shade tree in the county could do that kind of work a Hellava lot cheaper. You thought you were getting professional service, and of course if you had damaged the engine, he would swear they didn't do it.

My first quess is you left something loose in the linkage, like the cam roller or something and it's mainly running on timing advance a very little throttle opening. My first check would be to pull the air silencer front off so you can see the butterflies in the carbs. Go full throttle with the lever/hotfoot and make sure the butterflies fully open and don't over travel. Also make sure all six star to open at the same time. Also make sure the cam roller is at the mark on the cam when they star to open. Normally, vacuum leks won't let it idle wrth a darn. Next guess is you have the low speed jets in too far and it's leaning out. I'm not where I can look it up, but I think they are suppose to be at 5 1/2 turns of the seat. Actually that's for a 200, not sure what the 150 sets at, but you might want to find out, because it's not going to run if they are in to far. If nothing else, turn them out a turn and try it, after a few times of this you should be able to gain rpm if they are the problem. That is if your year model had adjustable low speed jets. From there I would question the float level.

I don't tournament fish so I can pick the ramp I want to put in at so rarely have the need to make long runs. My boat holds 48 gallons but I've rarely had a reason to fill it up, and when I do, its for several days fishing, not to be burned up in one. If I keep my cruising speed at approx. 45 mph, mine burns eight gallons per hour the few times I have checked it. When scouting new areas, I will sometimes just cruise and since the lake I fish is 71,000 acres or 111 square miles, it's pretty each to travel long distances if your heart desires. I I just prefer to spend my money on tackle and my time fishing, instead of burning up gas. Since I don't like leaving gas in my tank, I just buy what I know I'm going to burn.

I fished Clarks hill for years, it has approx 1,200 miles of shoreline, with a 17' canoe. Treat it like a whole bunch of small lakes, and stay out of the big water. Big water can get dangerous before you realize it. Nice part about a canoe is you don't need a boat ramp so you can slide in, in a lot of different places if you have access. Anything more than a 1/4 mile across, I usually avoided.

No luck on having the mount cast into block. That brass fitting just behind the carb looks like pulse line. Did I understand you also have a 72 9.5? If so, use the pump off that one as a prototype to make a mount. I just cut a small rectangle of 1/4" thick aluminum about the width of the pump and a little longer to have a mounting tab. Drill and tap two holes using the pump mounting holes as a guide for location. Then drill a hole that centers on the pulse hole in the pump. Now drill hole large enough to tap it for 1/8" MPT barbed fitting. You want the barb fitting going through just enough to file it flat with the aluminum plate. Mount the pump, with a gasket between it and the barb fitting, find a place to secure it and run a hose between the two fittings.

If you can possibly post a picture of the motor where the pulse line is connected, I would be better able to tell you if an OEM pump will mount there. On some motors, They actually started casting the mounts for the fuel pump into the block several years before they started installing them. The 70's - 80's etc OEM pump is probably your best option, it will just just take a little more work to use it, unless you can find a pump that is designed to be remoted and has a fitting for the pulse line. As for the oil mixture, I would run 32:1. You have to realize when that motor was built, there was no such thing as two stroke TWC oil, they used 30W non detergent motor oil. The TWC oil is light years ahead of that old stuff. You could probably run it at 50:1 but 32:1 should be more than enough oil.

Forget doing all that, if you don't have a good gas tank that goes with that motor, that's not all rusty inside, that connecotor is useless to you. The reason it has two lines is one fo the lines pressurizess the fuel tank, so only the tank designed for that motor works, and they are almost impossible to find in good condition, and someone is not wanting 10 prices for it. What you do is convert it over to a fuel pump and then you can use the standard OMC connector and any of the plastic fuel tanks, with a fuel line and primer bulb. It's been an ungodly number of years sine I've done one but I think you can mount the fuel pump they started using in the 60's and through the ages where the pulse line is. The pulse line is that hose going into the block and not the carburetor. If it won't mount directly to the block, with a gasket between the pump and block, then you will have to modify the pump or make something to get the pulse line connected to the pump. Then mount it and run your fuel lines. The way the fuel pump works is every time the piston comes down on the cylinder the pulse line is on, it pressurizess that section of the crank case, which pushes the diafram in the fuel pump, causing it to pump a shot of fuel. Since you say you are just learning, don't confuse how a two stroke works with a four stroke. On a four stroke, the valves open when the piston starts going down. On a two stroke the valves close when the piston starts coming down. As the piston is coming down it is pressurizing the crank case. When the top of the piston clears the intake ports in the cylinder, the air/fuel mixture is blown into the cylinder under pressure. This charge under pressure is directed upward so it's pushing out the exhaust gas and filling the cylinder wit a fresh mixture. On a two stroke, the valves open when the piston starts back up and it pulls in a fresh charge of fuel/air into the crankcase to get ready for the next down stroke. About half way up, it seals of all ports and compresses the fresh charge to be fired by the plug when it gets to the top. It fires at the top of every up stroke of the piston, four strokes fires at the top of every other up stroke. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Double-Line-Fuel-Connector-OMC-/161625091889?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item25a19b2f31&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/375587-0375587-OMC-Evinrude-Johnson-Double-Line-Fuel-Connector-Housing-Assembly/321295388251?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29947%26meid%3Dc57a63dd92c54863b4edfea17044f40b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161625091889&rt=nc

The dealer is the best place for the service manual, they are not very expensive. The problem is you will probable need the diagnostics cable and software also. That you can sometimes find on ebay. Then you will need a computer with windows XP or older because it has to be run In DOS and I don't think the command promp in newer version run a dos window compatable with the software. I have an old IBM laptop I keep just for that purpose. A very common problem those motors had was where the wiring harness wrapped around the back of the motor, there was a sharp edge of casting slag on the corners that cut into the wiring harness, shorting it out. Which fuse is it blowing, if it's the 40 amp, that's the one that that controls the injector drivers. One other thing to watch for when checking it out. That ECM is isolated from ground so DO NOT try to clip test lead grounds etc to it, and do not short it to ground. I've seen a few of them blown doing that, and that will ruin your day if you blow it. One other tid bit, the injectors in that motor pull so much current, you can clip a timing lite on the positive lead to it to see if it's firing. They will actually fire a timing lite. This is your best source for testing and repair for the ecm and injectors if you need it. http://dfitechnologies.com

That's probably the best thing to do. When you want to change the electrical configuration of how it's wire, you need to have a basic understanding of how it works and how the changes will affect it. Just a little FYI, that run/charge bat/toggle switch that's in that front panel you plug the TM into, already connects the cables in series when you have it in the run position. Now, since you mentioned the TM has been upgrade to a 24V 80#, you have almost doubled what all that wiring up front was ever designed to handle, and should be bypassed. Also, if it does not have at least 6ga cable going from the battery to the TM, that needs to be upgraded, I also think that size motor requires a 60 amp breaker. So, if you are going to have it done right, that's things you need to check on.

Hold on a minute, maybe I'm not understanding things here a jumped to a few conclusions that are not the case. Are there two or three batteries in the boat? One cranking and one trolling, or one cranking and two trolling? Is the trolling motor a 12 volt, 24 volt, or 12/24? What I mentioned doing is only if it has three batteries, one cranking and two TM and if it has a 24 volt only TM. Also, if the boat belongs to a club and not yours, they may not appreciate modifying the wiring so there would be no way to run a 12/24 TM in the future. After all, that is what most of the cheaper 24 volt TM are We need to make sure we are on the same page before making any of the changes I posted in my first post. I was also only talking about paralleling the the two sets of cables going to the batteries, not the batteries, and that was ONLY if it is running three batteries, two TM and one cranking, and ONLY if it's running a straight 24 volt TM and not a 12/24. The batteries themselves, provided there are two TMs would be connected in series.

First, you messed up putting one new battery with one used battery. Doing that, and you will never quit chasing battery problems and especially when they are connected in series. The batteries MUST BE of the same type, size, manufacture, and age or with no more than 25 charges difference between them. Mixing and pairing them like you have done causes the battery with the lower internal resistance to go bad fairly quickly. If you think the charger might be a problem, fully charge each battery by itself, let it rest 24 hours and test it with a volt meter and hydrometer if it has removeable caps, or take them to a parts store and have them tested. Probably will find one of the batteries bad or a big difference between the two. As for the wiring of the boat. It souns like it's right, but if you are not running a 12/24 TM or try to charge the batteries from that fron plate, then I would redo it. However, you don't want to put them in series, you want to connect them in parallel. Connect the two possitives together on each end and the two negatives together on each end. This will give you the equivalent of the next size larger cable. To connect them on the batteries for 24 volts. Connect the possitive cable to the possitive post on one battery. Connect the negative cable to the negative post on the other battery. Buy a battery interconnect cable and connect the other two post, the negative and possitive post you did not use, together. The interconnect cable need to be at least 6 guage wire. The cables might be too short to reach out where that panel is at, plus you will probably find they put a smaller guage wire on them so they could connect them to that funky receptical installed in the panel. If so, you may have to add a little 6 guage to them or locate the plug on the side somewhere. I would not even try to use the plug you have, my prefered connectors are the Anderson SB-50. They are cheap and very good. Other companies make the same type, they will just call it something different. You need two of them, both are the same, they just interlock. I would upgrade to at least a 50 breaker at the battery also. I tried to give you a link but it wouldn't but a search works. BPS used to have them, Cabels, Graingers as well as a ton of others. Andersons is as good as they come and you can find a huge difference in price.

A couple years ago I bought two very nice new delux pedestal seats and the small center seat back and cushion for a Stratos 201 extremely cheap. The company that makes them for Stratos was selling off some that had some minor flaw. One you can hear something rattle around inside when you flip it over, the other I've never found it. Since I was dealing directly with the manufacture, I managed to talk them into selling me 15 yards of the same matching vinyl they made them with so when I recovered my seats everything would be a perfect match. I have two, walking foot commercial Consew sewing machines, I also restore cars from time to time, and a chair or two for the wife when she makes me, and do my own upholstery. So, I have everything but the time, it's just a matter of me taking the time to do it.

Looks great. I bet that knocked a big dent in the fishing budget. The condition of Mine is nothing like yours, the stitching in a couple of seams is staring to break so I've put mine off about as long as I can, I will probably start on it this summer. It just hasn't made it up that priority ladder, but it's only a couple runs down

I to have used skimmer transducers to shoot through the hull. Flat bottoms are easy, football shaped ones can be tricky getting them straight. One thing I would do is make sure the area you plan to install it is suitable. It must shoot through solid fiberglass with no air pockets. Best way to test it is to use something like 4 mil plastic sheet. Lay it over every thing back there and fill the sump with water, letting the plastic form fit an make a nice water filled bowl. Then set the transducer in your water bowl where you want, brace/support it some way so it will stay put and it should work just as good as it was epoxied.in. If you dont get a good strong signal, then you probably have a bad location.

Retiredbosen, I hate to go off subject but I had to make this one post to say, I just noticed you are in some of my old stomping ground. Back in the early to mid sixties, I lived in Augusta/Richmond County, just before you crossed the bridge into Beach Island. Did a ton of drag racing in Jackson SC. Went by the old house a couple of years ago and almost couldn't find it, everything has changed so much. I would think you would be fishing Santee Cooper, some. That used to be an awesome lake, and if you are into big cat fish, it had some monsters.

If you are ruining extremely shallow water jet drives are not a good choice. They are great for running rivers with blow downs and rocky Rapids, but not good for shallow, sandy, muddy, or small pea gravel bottoms. A tunnel hull with a prop drive on a hydraulic jack plate is much better in shallow water. That's why almost all the back bay boats you see are tunnel hulls and not jet drives. The problem with jet drives in shallow water is they a basically a vacuum cleaner, sucking water in the bottom and blowing it out the back. In less than about eight inches of water, they are sucking the sand, silt, and any particles that will go through grid goes through the screw and housing, eating it up and greatly shortening it's lfie. No different than letting a prop spinn in sand. Just a lot more expensive to replace.