Way2slow

lead acid batteries do not develop a memory. That memory stuff was from the early NiCad days, but has never applied to lead acid.

I left my Javelin at Lake Falcon for about 3 years with my son, who was suppose to keep it in a secure, covered shelter there. That lasted about six months and he moved to the fish camp on the lake and put a canvas cover over it. Needless to say, the south Texas sun played havoc on it so I brought it back home a couple weeks ago. Took it to the lake for a check out, and didn't leave there very happy. The tach didn't work, that's a $110 part The trim gauge, didn't work, a $40 part The volt meter didn't work, a $30 part The Tilt and trim was messing up. $70 seal kit just to take it apart, so I took one out of another motor I have and will replace the whole thing The clear gel on the metal flake is pretty much shot. Loading the boat, the tilt let the motor drop and a drug the skegg on the ramp and screwed up a $800 custom tuned prop. Got the spare out of the boat today to put it on, found out my son had already screwed that one up. Now I have two SS props to send off, about $500 worth of repair. Hot foot sticking bad, need to replace the cable on it. Water pressure was a little low, so need to replace the water pump and service LU. Live well would not let water in, need to replace valve, cable or something, check it tomorrow. Put new tires on it to go to Texas, two on one side were so cracked from dry rot, had to buy two more at $260. Seams in seats start to bust open, will need to recover them. HDS-7 on the bow would not work, will have to send it off for repair Steering had air in it, so will have to check for leaks and bleed it Other than the HDS-7 and prop repair, all this other work I will do myself. Can you imagine what the bill would be if I had to pay some repair shop to do all the work needed on this thing. It's going to be expensive enough just buying the parts (at ebay prices). If I had to pay dealer prices for parts and labor to do all this work, I would be better off junking it.

You can't, I have it turned off. I seem to rub some people the wrong way, and don't care to get their BS PM's. I think it's better to keep everything in the open, so everyone can read both sides of different view points and from their own opinion. I will turn it on from time to time to help someone with technical stuff that would be way beyond what needs to be here, but other than that, it stays off.

There is not a whole lot I like about my Terrova. I usually upgrade my TM and electronics every five years but since I've retired, it's going to be a little longer but when I do, it will be back to the MG's with dual cable steering. My biggest gripe is not being able to just grab the rope, lift and hold the motor partially up when going to get a lure unhung in shallow water. That and the slow response of that electric rotation. I was raised on MG's, don't know why a had a case of temporary insanity and bought the Terrova. I was thinking the iPilot would be nice, but find I rarely use it. The remote is handy sometimes when I'm off the front and need to move the boat to keep it from going on the bank or something.

The biggest laugh I had was watching my granddaughter. Back when she was about 9 or 10, she was not that good of a swimmer and all her cousins were in the deep end of the pool. She jumped out of the pool, went to the boat shed and got her a life vest out of the boat. She got her auto inflate because that's what I always made her wear when in the boat, but she never really knew how it worked. She just thought it was a thin, lightweight life jacket. Well, she snaps it on, goes running and jumps into the deep end, It inflated quicker than a cars airbag and scared the total crap out of her. She's screaming and hollering and I'm laughing my butt off. It was worth every penny of that arming kit just to see that one.

Deka. Using it to run the TM, I would go with the Marine Master DC27. It is a true deep cycle but since you are only cranking a 9.9, it will have more than enough amps to crank that motor. Just shop around, they are excellent batteries and if taken care of, have very good life span, but you will see huge differences in what different retailers want for them. If you happen to have a Deka warehouse near you, a lot of times that's the cheapest place to buy them. They also give excellent prices for your old batteries.

On a Jon boat, I would not try to ad any set back. If you are using a long shaft motor on a short transom. You will need to add at least 5" to the transom height. As mentioned, with the motor sitting on the boat, measure from the bottom of the hull to the anti-cav plate and that will give you the the height you need to add to the transom. A couple pieces of 1 1/2"x 2 1/2"x 1/8" angle will make you a plate to raise it. A couple vertice pieces bolted to the boat and a couple short horizontal pieces welded to them and a short piece of 2x6 in them and you have a mount. They used to sell mounts just for what you are wanting to do. Here's one BPS sells http://t.basspro.com/MiniJacker-for-Clampon-Outboards/product/8782/?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.basspro.com%2FMiniJacker-for-Clampon-Outboards%2Fproduct%2F8782%2F122143&hvarAID=vantage

Take the top plug out, if lobe comes out, notice the color, if not, use something like a tie wrap end and see how much it's low. Put the top plug back in and take the bottom plug out, just enough to see if any drops of water come out. If things look good, check it again after using it a few times. If it's a little 1/4" or so, that's normal. You fill them from the bottom and it's not uncommon to loose a little trying to get the plug back in. Even when you put the top plug in before removing the filler from the bottom.

First, before you do anything, did you check the LU lube? was it full and dark with no cream color? The reason to check it, it's very possible you might be about to try and fix something that ain't broke. It is very common to have a black, oily residue come out where you describe. This is nothing but oily black exhaust carbon that sometimes drains out. Also I sure hope you know what you are doing when you start taking that LU apart? Those are not something you you want to go into without really knowing your stuff. Plus you will need a few special tools.

Yes, there are some benefits. If you had it, you wouldn't want to be without it. However, since you don't have, not sure you would realize enough of a benefit to offset the cost. It's nice not having to pull on the motor, and just hit a button, plus it lets you tweak your trim for max speed when running. Only you can decide which is better, having that money for something else, or having a T&T unit. Also, be careful when looking at them, some are tilt only, not trim. Tilt only will not let you trim the motor. If it does not say tilt and trim, it's most likely just tilt.

OK, just so you understand, you are somewhat correct on your math, but you failed to account for a couple of other variables. That 105 Ah rating for the TM battery is on a 20 hour rating, meaning they are only using about a five amp load, and the battery will last 20 hours before being fully discharged. As the load on a battery increase, efficiency decreases, so when you start drawing the 35 - 40 amps the TM is at full power, that so called 105 Ah battery becomes about a 70 Ah battery Many GC batteries are rated on a much lower scale, they don't usually use that useless 20 hour rating. So, to get the same run time as the two 210 Ah, GC batteries, it would probably take closer to three 105 Ah TM batteries to match the two GC batteries. In my post, I was not trying to say you should not try it, I was just trying to make sure you were aware of what was involved and the potential cost. I know a guy that's running two 36 volt TMs on six GC batteries.

This reminds me of years back when I sent a guy to the lumber yard to borrow their board stretcher, and he fell for it. Lumber yard sent him to their saw mill, thirty miles away. Saw mill told him they were using theirs and sent him to another location. Four hours and no telling how many miles later he gets back to the plant, in somewhat of a fowl mood. Somebody finally told him he was had. You have to understand though, this was the same guy that, a few days later I give him my 12 foot tape and asked him to measure some 2x4's being received to see if they were the 14 ft or 16 ft we were waiting on. He heads out the door and a couple minutes later comes back in saying "you thought you had got me again, sent me to measure boards that long with a 12 ft tape".

If you use one of the mid line units it's not much more than my HDI-10 with the side scan unit. You don't have to buy the $6,000 sonar. You are just buying a $1,500 transducer and using it on one of their compatable units.

For most bass boats and most conditions, I think 45"-48" would be the most desireable length. Any shorter and you will have problems keeping it in the water when boat wakes hit you or fishing bigger lakes that can get some pretty good chop on the points during Wendy days. I put a 60" on mine because in the motor I wanted, that was all that was available at the time and a couple of places I fish, boat traffic can get pretty heave on a number of the main lake points. My 45" shaft I was replacing stayed out of the water about half the time under those conditions, so I figured the 60" would be better, WRONG! I spend much more time fishing skinny water coves where I need the motor up to run shallow and that frigging motor head sticking up three feet is a constant aggravation.

The only way you are going to learn is by doing it. Then you can figure out if it's something you can do yourself. A carb is a very simple device but if you are not very knowledgeable of exactly how they work and what all you have to do when cleaning and rebuilding one, then how to adjust them when done, it will probably drive you nuts trying to get the motor to run right when done. You will be back on here asking what's wrong with it, you just rebuilt the carbs, but it just won't run right, so there has to be something else wrong. Which there could be, but it's highly likely the carbs are screwed up. It's also a great feeling if you get them right, the motor runs perfect and you just saved a few hundred bucks by doing them yourself. Things can go either way, but I do encourage anyone to always at least try to do as much as they can themselves. I've always said If man made it, I can fix it, and that knowledge didn't come by paying someone else to do everything for me. Ever since I was a kid, I've pulled stuff apart just to see how it was made, and at almost 69 years old I still do. I figure if I'm going to have to buy a new part to fix something, what am I out of if I take the old one apart first to see if I can fix it, and many time I do fix it for pennies of what the new one would cost, sometimes it's totally destroyed when it was not designed to be taken apart, but I do anyway.

What does it hurt? Other than not being all shiny, there's nothing wrong with it. Now, if you think it keeps your trailer from being grounded to the vehicle and messes up the lights, you need to hook up the white wires in the plugs, they provide the ground, not the ball.

Probably the FLW guys are your best source for a boat, not many of them are given boats. Many of the not so well sponsored guys have to buy their boats from the manufacture at basically manufactures cost. With that big discount, they try to sell them at the end of the season for close to what they paid, some do, some are not so lucky.

Check the restrictions in place for the lakes you plan to fish. I don't think national parks allow two strokes,and as mentioned, that state has its own rules. Performance wise, you can't beat a two stroke. The newer DFI two strokes are very fuel conservative, but you still have those screwed up laws that prohibit the use of two stroke motors in a lot of places.

Water will come out of all kinds of places. If the motor is running fine, don't worry about where the water is coming from while on a hose, as long as it's not coming out of the power head itself or the carburetors, you probably have nothing to worry about. It's a water cooled exhaust system. As for coming out between where the lower unit joins the mid section, that's not going to bother a thing, and is a common occurrence on Johnny Rudes.

Back in the late sixties I towed a 15' GlassMaster boat with 65hp merc on it with a Volkswagen Karman Ghia for a couple of years. Only had to replace clutch twice, the steep ramp gave it h**l getting it back out of the water.

Pull the air box cover off the front of the engine and make sure the butter flies ( if carburated) or single butter fly if throttle body, is fully closing. If they are not "FULLY" closing, then you need to check your linkage and cable to see what's stopping them. If they are fully closing, you need to check the timing advance, it's probably stuck in full advance. The engine will turn over 2,000 rpm just on timing advace and no throttle.

if under dealer warranty, let the dealer handle it. probably improperly adjusted cable.

maybe this fits your budget. Very simple installation. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Tach-Digital-LCD-Honda-Atv-Motorcycle-Generator-Dirt-Bike-/281658762675

I have built a couple of wooden boats and helped two friends build those very nice wooden canoes. While they are very nice looking and handle great, they are too heavy for my likings.

Does the title require a notary? If not you are good. Just fill out all your info and date it. If he dated it when he signed it you will probably have to pay a late fee for the transfer if it has been more that a few weeks. If it has that ugly little notary block, then you might be screwed, because the transfer signatures have to be notarized, meaning the have to be witnessed by the notary. , unless you have a very good friend that's a notary, or are in real good with your banker or somebody.