Way2slow

Not sure where you saw NGK as the recommended plug, Champions have always been the ones I've seen recommended, and the ones I've always run. NGK 's are the ones I use when I can't get the Champions.

I have been fishing Clarks Hill since 1962, know it better than the back of my hand and I don't have or ever plan on having a power pole, but I do have the Lowrance HDS-10 on a swing arm at the drivers seat, HDS-7 at bow and the HDS-5 in the dash, all networked with the structure scan. When they come out with something significantly better, I will upgrade them but don't need a power pole.

The bad part about a two stroke, once you hear the knocking, if it's a bearing, you can also say good-by to the rod and a crankshaft. The bearings are so hard, if one does go, it takes the crankshaft and rod with it. There is also only one person in the US I would trust to repair a two stroke crank, if he's still around. (Which he was also the one Yamaha used for their factory rebuilt cranks) The way it has to be welded up, ground back to OEM specs and re-heat treated, they break about 95% of the time after a year or so from most peoples repair. A few years ago, there was some guys having custom size bearings made and were just grinding and heat treating the cranks for some of the main bearing repairs, they may have gone into the rod bearings also However, if you can't fix it yourself, it sounds like you can go ahead and kiss about four or five grand good-by. Did a search and thought for a bit he was no longer around. However when I looked at this companies email address, it's him, so I guess he's still going strong. http://www.marinecrankshaftinc.com/outboard.html

OK, got a better understanding of what's what. That red thing confused my old brain, but I finally figured out that's one of the little marker lights across the back. Now, that I got that figured out, yes, it should be a very simple repair to weld and reinforce it. It looks like there is a cutout in the frame for that marker light, I would put a solid piece of angle over that and either leave that one light out, or install a surface mounted one.

Wouldn't let me delete, Decided it's better left unsaid.

What you are looking for are available as cabinet door hinges. I put some on my pantry doors when I made them. The problem you will have with the ones I used is they are the European style and requires a 30mm hole about a 1/2" deep, but I have seen them in flush mount also. Probably something like this http://www.leescountryrv.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/overhead-rv-cabinet-support-hinge.jpg Do a search on cabinet door hinges and select images, that will show you all kind.

I'm still trying to figure out exactly where the break is at, but looks like a weak area in the frame with those notches and cut out areas. Temporarily pull the wires out so they don't burn up, and a quick trip to a MIG welder with a little extra metal added to reinforce it and it should be better than new. It the other side is made the same way, I would go ahead and reinforce it also. If possible, it might be better to slide the boat off the trailer if it's close to the break or make it difficult to weld. If it stays on the trailer, make sure you put something for a heat shield against it. The heat and light from that welding can damage a finish a foot away.

I know several guys that fish almost year round, and have for many years in a couple different club tournaments that will tell you in a heartbeat, if the water more than 10 feet, it's too deep. However, when it comes to fishing large deeper lakes, I'm a firm believer in the fact that if you are only fishing the banks, 90% of the water/fish are behind you. Spring, fall and nights are about the only times you will find me less than 10 feet of water.

Being on Craig's list, I hope this is a boat you get face to face to do the deal, if not, run like hell from it. You do know Craig's list is one of the Scammer's favorite sites, so any dealings you do with anything there needs to be face to face when any money changes hands. As for worth it, I think it doesn't sound too bad.

AL, you read my mind, I just felt it best to do just that.

It takes two wires to make a circuit. Battery negative is just as important as battery positive. Sounds like you are having issues on the negative side.

When you find one at any price that will fill your last requirement, no matter the price, let me know, I want one.n. As for the rest, you are probably limited to one of the 4-5 inch models with gps/chart capability. For those it's whether you prefer chocolate or vanilla ice cream.

I guess after over 50 years of backing, everything is kinda automatic and don't really think about it. I guess since I was never taught how to back, and they didn't have the internet back then, that's the first time I heard keep your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. I keep mine on top and just move that hand the direction the boat is headed.

If it's wide enough and you have the room. After all, you can buy 16' jons with a little console and steering wheel already installed.

It's amazing how dumb some dealers can be when they are suppose to be the professional go to people when you have a problem. I will have to say, that one was dumber than dirt if he even began to think a 30 amp fuse on 10ga wire would run a 12V 55# TM, actually that was not enough even if it had been 24V. Yea, it would as long as you never run it over about half speed. You did the right thing, now all you have to do is get you one of these for the cable. http://www.amazon.com/SB-50A-Connector-6-Gray/dp/B004KNFTI6/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435421424&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=anderson+connector+SB50+6GA and one of these for the TM. http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-SB50-10-12ga-Connector-Gray/dp/B00IDEKD1Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435421604&sr=8-2&keywords=anderson+connector+SB50+10GA Make sure to get the same color, different colors don't connect together unless you cut the key out of the center of one of them.

I know nothing about the 5SI but I'm guessing the SI only works at less than 10 mph. If so and you would be happy just being able to use it while off plane and fishing or scouting out spots you can mount it on the rear section the motor is mounted on. Now, if you want to use it while still running at WOT, it's probably will have to be mounted on that riser just above the bunk board if it will fit without being to far down in the water. I think that's a fairly large Xducer. Depending on how fast your boat is and how much it gets up on the pad, there may be enough water contact to mount it on that middle step, but you will have the possibility of it loosing contact at WOT, or enough turbulence to interfere with the signal. It really looks like it's not going to fit on the riser, that Middle tear is where I would mount it and hope it makes enough contact at WOT to still give a signal. WOT is probably the only time it might not work there. At slower economic speeds there is probably enough water contact to work.

Try to get the weight forward when trying to get on plane so the bow does not lift. Have your buddy move up to the bow. If it does get on plane, then have him move back. The more the bow lifts, the less chance of getting on plane because it's pushing a wall of water instead of getting on top of the water. As for the charger, about all you can do is make sure it's getting 120VAC on the power cord going into it. Could just be a broken/loose wire in the plug, since that's what get's the most handling. Check the pitch on the prop and make sure it's about the smallest pitch prop made for that motor, you will probably need the smallest for that much boat.

I think there are better epoxies for aluminum, Marine Tex is one, but for a small repair, it will probably hold just fine. Clean it good and scuff it good with 60 grit before you apply any of them. They also make a repair cement that comes like a stick, that you melt onto the spot that's made especially for aluminum repair. I have a couple of places I have fixed years ago and still holding strong.

Probably going to be the most expensive $100 he ever pays for something in his life. All that 100 did was to prime the pump. How many times have I been there, done that in my life time.

Well, not sure just how far south, while it never froze, it's stayed pretty dang cold in Brownsville.

Since you work in a fiberglass shop, I guess you have the know how. Just be aware of one boat fact, the cap and floor are usually laid in the hull, while it's supported in the mold or something similar. If you start cutting them out, make sure you have the hull fully supported. The last one I took the cap off and preplaced the floor was a Stratos 285 Pro, and I dug a pit the boat would set in and filled it in with sand, working it under the hull and about a foot up the sides. If you don't support it, it will get seriously out of shape. I've seen people that did this and had to cut the hull to get the cap back on, and hulls that were all kinds of twisted so they went though the water in weird ways. Does sound like you have a project that will keep you busy through the rest of the year and maybe have a nice fishing boat by next spring.

Personally, I still prefer the Evinrude, it's a darn good motor. However, if that dealership does not sell them, and have to special order it, that tells me they know little to nothing about servicing them either. Todays outboards are far too complicated for any dealership that does not send their techs to factory training to properly maintain them or work on enough of them the stay up on them. I don't care who's outboard it is, they do sometimes break, and if you don't have a dealership that is well educated on them, they usually don't get repaired properly and spend tons of time in the shop. I'm afraid if that's the only dealer you have near you, you had better hope you get one of the good ones, because if you happen to get one of those 5-10% that break, which all makes have those, you might end up wishing you had never seen an Evinrude.

I've never tried it, but it would probably work, just might reduce the sensitivity a little. It you have a flat bottom transducer and mounting it on a flat surface and keep the silicon paper thin, it will probably work just fine. Silicon being soft, will probably cause a small buffering affect, but that should be minimal with a very thin layer, the buffering should be minimal. DO NOT use a foam. The air trapped in it would kill a lot of signal. Even small air bubbles trapped in a fiberglass hull can cause problems if you happen to be shooting through them.

Oh well, I tried, but guess he didn't need the info I gave him.

Know nothing about the boat, so can't say. For everything else, probably $1,000. I figure the motor, if very clean looking, top dollar would be $500 and might have to sit on it a while to get that. The depth finder, I just bought a brand new Elite-4x HDI Fishfinder+Chartplotter with the downscan transducer for my jon boat on clearance at WalMart for $69. The HDI's are the old stuff and are popping up everywhere at clearance prices, just maybe not quite as cheap as I stumbled on this one. So, I would not put a lot of value in yours. Two used batteries, if more than several months old, $50-75. Trolling motor, a couple hundred or so. The oars, they never made a set I would own, so can't say about those. If there is a trailer for the boat, might figure $150 for it.