Way2slow

If it's boiling the water out, the battery or the charger is bad. Possibly both now if it was the charger that was bad first and caused the problem. A bad battery causes it because the charger is trying to take it to a full charge level, if the battery won't charge to full capacity, it will start overheating and the charger will start charging it even harder because as it heats, the internal resistance decrease. The other thing that happens with a bad battery, it may reach a level that lets the charger stop charging, but will not hold that level, sometimes only several hours, and the charger comes back on at a set level of discharge, and some drop into a float mode that maintains a low set level of voltage on the battery (usually 13.2 to 13.6 volts, depending on the type battery). There are some checks you need to do with a good DVM with a current function to determine if the charger is the goes back into the charge mode, or increases the float level, depending on the type charger. Regrettably, you may have to get new batteries before you can check the charger because if the batteries are bad, the charger is going to keep on trucking, trying to charge them and there would be no way to tell if it's working properly or not. One of the biggest causes of this when running batteries in series for 24 and 36 volt TMs and only swapping out one battery if one goes bad. If the batteries are not of the same make type and age, one will have a different internal resistance than the other. The one with the lesser internal resistance is handling more of the load than the other, and starts to fry itself. This is usually the newer of the two batteries.

Try just pumping the bulb until it starts to get full but not really firm, still a little sponge, don't squeeze it any more after that. Then try starting it without choking it. If it does not start within 10-15 seconds, wait about 15 seconds and try it again, still not ever choking it. If it doesn't start the second time try bumping the choke for just a second or so, while cranking it and then stop cranking. Wait about 10 seconds and try cranking it again, without chocking it again. The purpose of all this, it's sounds like you are flooding it with what you are doing now, so we want to try it with out giving it much extra gas to start with. If it still doesn't want to start doing what I've suggested, my next step would be to see if it's getting enough gas. Now, you want to take a spray bottle with some premixed gas in it and give a couple squirts directly in the carburetor and see if it start then. I have a 1982 25hp Merc, and it started getting hard to start. After some trouble shooting, I replaced the intake and reed block gaskets, they were leaking and that cured the problem, it's starts the first pull or two now. However, this is not something you would probably be able to do. The next thing that can cause one to be hard to start for the first time is low compression. Have you had it checked. I think it should be around 125psi, but can't say for sure, it's been years since I've check mine or even looked to see what those motors should have.

Since I haven't followed the tournament trail for a long time and I know there's always those that do and don't think the sonar affects bass. Years ago, it was very common to turn off the sonar while sitting over the top of a school and fishing straight down on them. I know I've tried it several times, sometimes there is a difference, other times not. I've had several times were I would catch several fish and the bite stop, but still see the fish. Turn off the sonar and the bite starts again. Now, if it was the turning off the sonar or just a coinsidence, don't know. As for TM noise, I think there's more hype than reality to just how much it affects bass. I know many times when fishing ponds where the bass rarely, if ever hear a TM, I've gotten if shallow water with the TM, turn it off and use the paddle and immediately start seeing wakes on the surface where a fish is getting out of there in a hurry. The TM seems to rarely bother them, but start using a paddle and and you are constantly seeing them getting out of Dodge as far as 25-30 feet away.

Go on line and start searching outboard salvage yards, call them and see who has the best price. Something like this one http://www.marinepartsoutlet.com/ Might also check on Craigs list and local listings and ebay. You might find one for a few hundred and you will probably find some idiots wanting as much as 1,500 or more for a used unit, you will just have to be patient and shop around.

Do you plug your charger directly into a drop cord or do you have a plug in the boat wired to the charger you plug the drop cord into? Did you plug something 120VAC into the drop cord and make sure it's good and have power to that point? Things happen. When I first went in the Air Force I had a Staff Sargent training me on a radio, he had spent 20 minutes tearing it apart because it had no power output when I looked at the back of it, handed him the plug and asked if that needed to be plugged in first. If you have a plug wired into the boat, check the back side of it and make sure no wires got knocked loose from it during the detailing and moving everything around.

Definitely the adjustable. An inch can make a huge difference in what's comfortable to your legs and back. Also get the pivot base for the seat. Get the height and the angle right and it makes a day on the lake a lot more comfortable. Sometimes you just want to lean against it for stability, other times you actually want to rest your butt on it, each time you will want to have the height a little different.

I've been throwing bait casters for about 45 years, and can be very accurate with one, but I still have to use that little Kentucky windage. Being left handed, my cast have always drifted to the right. I've just been doing it so long, it's like shooting a rifle, I don't need sights, I just point and shoot. My hands and eye coordination is my sights. It's call instinct shooting, same thing applies when casting. Now, if I want to split hairs at a long distance, I can take my time, use both hands, be sure I whip it straight back and straight forward and it will fly straight. However, most of my cast are just are just roll cast, lifting it out of the water, doing a little roll with the tip and send it on it's way again, those are the ones that drift right.

That's one way to ruin your day. Looks like a couple OMC/BRP Lightning gear cases I've seen.

I'm glad it's yours and not mine. As much as you've worked with it, my fun meter would have pegged a long time ago and I would have probably done some serious damage by now. When I get to that point I run out of GAS. Not the kind you are thinking, that's also the acronym for Give A Sh** and when I run out, it's time to get out of my way. I was changing intakes on my car one time and had to get the carb off to get to the center bolts. After wrestling with a couple of nuts that didn't want to come loose until I had enough, one BFH (Big F Hammer) and a couple minutes later the carb was off and lying in the parking lot. That's one reason I don't usually work on others stuff, if I pull a stunt like that, it's mine, don't have to worry about any repercussions, other than to my wallet.

What I had was nothing but a barb fitting with a 3/8 barb I screwed in the fill port, slid a short piece of hose on it, I used a plastic oil bottle with the tapered spout off a gear lube bottle pushed down in the hose. That was I didn't have their bleeder kit, had to drive 50 miles one way to get one and didn't care to pay the price they wanted for it. The helm may be trapping an air bubble. I had a piece of equipment that had vertices mounted master cylinders and it was impossible to bleed the brakes on it using conventual methods because it trapped air. The only way you could bleed it was to back bleed it through the bleeder to push the air pocket out. I doubt the valves in the helm are going to allow anything like that though, a master cylinder has a residual valve, that helm doesn't, Have you tried just doing small back and forth movements on the steering wheel to see if you can work it out, no more than 1/8-1/4 turn. It may finally burp it out doing that. I use that trick a lot when installing a new master cylinder. Just barely move the valves and it will burp the air out rather than have to push it through the whole system. Works great a lot of times. You are keeping the bleeder reservoir filled and not letting the fluid get below where you can see it. Are you opening the bleeder on the short side when you start moving the motor in the opposite direction? if not, try that, if you are try it with out opening it.

Maybe a couple of watts, if your lucky. If you feel it makes enough difference in the prop noise level and spooks fewer fish, OK, but no one will ever sell me on that claim I referenced.

Never even heard of it until your post so I went to their site to check it out. It's not for me. Their claim It will reduce prop noise, can't say for that one, but they must think people are dumber than dirt to believe this statement. "The side benefit to the conical shape with cooling ports is it pulls heat away from the motor and actually should lengthen the life of the trolling motor as a result. Both the trolling motor and the batteries become more efficient, and it gives the batteries extra life too." The flipping thing is on a plastic prop that actually has water circulating between it and the motor. How the heck is it going pull heat away from the motor to help eliminate motor heat. That right there is enough total sales BS to make me not want to buy it, plus that sucker is too expensive. Well, I gave you my personal opinion, but will never be able to give a review.

Sound's like a dumb thumb to me. I've never used the magnetic or friction drags to try and stop over run after the lure hits. Those are to slow the spool down to prevent over run mid flight when throwing baits that loose velocity fairly quickly in the air, or to compensate for having to cast into the wind.

Fixing to show my age. Back in the early 60's, I would only use Mitchell 300 spinning reels. Being left handed, I had to adapt. I held the reel upside down and used my thumb to hold the line pinched against the side of the handle to cast. When they finally came out with the 301 (left handed model), I bought "ONE". It was awkward as all get out trying to cast the way I was suppose to. When I learned to use bait casters, the right handed worked perfect so I rarely used spinning reels. Even today, if I need to make a precision cast with a spinning reel, I flip it upside down and use my thumb to hold the line pinched against the handle. I have never perfected the release using my finger to hold the line to make very precise cast. The one thing this has done is made me very good at throwing light baits with bait casters. I cast fairly light top water plugs accurately a long way with a bait caster most people would never dream of trying. It has to be a really light plug/lure for me to pick up a spinning reel to cast it, I mean almost Beetle Spin size.

Cranking/ turning over means the starter is spinning the big gear looking thingy on top of the motor, which is called the flywheel. Won't start means the flywheel is spinning but the motor will not start up and run. I hate to say this, but because of your lack of knowledge, taking it back to the mechanic is about your only option. There are a number of things that can cause one not to start but a basic knowledge of how the motor works is required or you can cause more problems than you fix.

If you try with the cylinder off, how are you going to hold the rod fully extended to bleed it? Remember, you are bleeding the side the rod is extended and the when you turn the helm, it's trying to push it back in to the other side. DO NOT try to clamp anything on that rod to try and hold it. If you do, YOU WILL RUIN IT. It's actually fairly soft and will dent and scratch very easily.

I think you will find way more left handers that use right handed reels so they don't have to switch hands than you will find right handers that use left handed reels. Even though, over the last 10-15 years, I have seen a lot of right handers switch over. Some have actually gone to learning how to cast left handed with their right handed reels to keep from switching hands. I think this is the nature of the beast. Left handed people have always had to be fairly ambidextrous having to learn to do everything backwards from most in this right handed world. Most right handed people are so dependent on their right hand, they can't even scratch their butt with their left hand. Other than ball players that learn to catch with their left hand, They can barely hold something in their left hand, much less function with it.

Start raising it one step at the time until you get your best speed and ride at WOT with your normal load. Get it too high and it will either porous or make the prop cavitate. Once you have it set and if it's too hard to get on plane because of the bow lift, you will have to give up a little on the WOT speed and drop it back down a notch to help the holeshot.

If you are going to use your compressed air, use very low pressure and be gentle. That system operates under pressure but that reservoir system doesn't and don't know how much pressure it will stand and wouldn't really want to find out. I used a tapered rubber tip on mine and never did press it hard down on the inlet so it could make a lot of pressure. Also go ahead and open both bleeders a couple of turns and turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times while doing it. When you put your new fluid in, if you waste about pint in each direction to make sure it's fully flushed, you should be able to catch and reuse it from there. When you install the new seals, Inspect your rod very closely and use something like 800 grit wet/dry to clean it up, that will also help the seals seat. I've resealed mine twice and it's starting to leak again now. It looks like about every three years or so I'm doing it. My rod has some very fine signs of wear out near the end where it changes directions and I think it must be enough to cause problems so this time when I put seals in it I'm going to replace it, Any little small imprecation on a hydtraulic cylinder rod can create problems as small as those seals are. Might be a waste but I'm going to see if I can get more than three years out of it. don't know, might just the life span of those small seals. One other thing, find a auto parts store or industrial supply house that sells tubes of LubriPlate 105 and get you a tube. That is the best stuff you can use for put those gland nuts back on and getting the seals to slide on. I've been using that stuff for almost everything I put together, engines and all since 1970, and swear by it. "Just don't try to use on piston rings, you would never get them to seat." You mentioned having play. You need to identify the source of the play. It could be in the steering wheel before it gets to the SeaStar helm or it could be in the linkage back at the motor where the link connects the motor to the cylinder. There should be no play in the SeaStar system itself. If your boat chine walks, it's almost impossible to drive at WOT if there is play in the steering.

I'm left handed, use a left handed spinning reel and a right handed bait caster. Every body I teach to use a bait caster, I teach them to cast with one hand and reel with the other, none of this swapping hands stuff. Which means if they are right handed, the learn to fish with a left handed bait caster. My son was recently complaining to me about that, that's how he had to learn and he said he finds special deals on right hand bait casters all the time, but never sees any special deals on left handed ones. It took me years to get my dad to learn to use a bait caster by casting with one hand and reeling with the other, and when he finally did, it took me a while to finally get a new reel. Every time I bought a new one, I would have to get a left hand and swap it for one of his right hands until I finally got all his swapped out.

I would never leave mine with all the electronics on it. If it's not a covered slip, now way would I do it. I also keep a lot of stuff in storage areas that I would not want leave exposed to the rain and sun. When it rains, boat get wet, storage compartments lids down, radiated heat from sun creates huge amount of humidity and condensation in closed storage compartments. Mildews and rust everything, plus plays havoc on gauges etc over the long term, not to say what it's doing to the exposed seats, carpet and finish. Personally, I keep too much stuff in my boat that I would add up to a fair chunk of change if it got stolen, and I would not want to load and unload the boat every time I went fishing. Now if it's something like my son does, I would say no problem. My son keeps his back bay boat in south Texas stored in a secure dry storage marina. He just calls them within of couple of hours before getting there, and the boat is in the water, gassed up and ready to go. When he gets back, he hands them the key, they clean it up, flush the motor and put it back inside the hanger, that's what it looks like. That works out good because no one but employees are allowed where the boats are at, if there is something you need, they bring the boat out to you.

Time out, hold on, I was just reading over those directions and realized I screwed up BIG TIME one part. I made corrections to my first posts, just be sure you always Open the bleeder and bleed the end the rod it fully extended out of, NOT THE OTHER END is said to start with. The end the rod is fully extended on is the end the internal piston on the rod is up against the gland nut, so there is no area there for the cylinder to trap air while bleeding. I do open the bleeder on the short end before turning the motor back the other direction so hopefully any air that might be trapped in the cylinder will be pushed out the bleeder and not back up the hose to the helm, just to have to be worked back out again.

Telefex's list a few approved alternatives to their fluid. The mil spec fluid is one of those and I could get it for $38 a galllon from a repair shop at a county airport. Not sure what it would cost now, the last gallon I bought was about five years ago. Dextron is not an approved fluid, they only list it as a fluid you can use in an emergency, even though a lot of people seem to think it is and use it, and it does void the warranty if one applies. MAKE SURE you have it fully turned in one direction and are bleeding from the bleeder the rod is fully extended. Don't try to bleed it with it centered or from the short end, the cylinder will trap the air and you may never get it bled. If you turn it too fast it will create micro bubbles in the fluid (basically cause it to foam) and you will never get it bled. Don't try to use automotive power steering fluids or regular 10W hydraulic fluids. Since this system has to operate the same in all kinds of temps and conditions, it has to use a fluid that has a very stable viscosity, and most regular fluids will not be suitable and maintain a stable viscosity. They are also way more subject to foam, Plus some can actually damage the seals in the helm and cylinder.

I use a modified version of Telefex's. First thing, I slide clear tubing over the bleeders and run those into a clean container. That I sit in the splash well. Set your fluid container up on the fill hole and never let the fluid get out of site while bleeding. Then I turn the motor all the way in one direction and anchor it well with bungee so it won't move the other direction. The rod in the cylinder will be fully extended on one side and fully in on the other. Open the bleeder on the end the rod is fully extended and start slowly (no more than 15 rpm) turning the wheel the opossite direction while watching for air bubbles in the bleeder hose. Don't be shy, run some fluid through it. When no signs of air are going through tubing, close that bleeder, remove the bungee and open the other bleeder and turn the motor the opposite direction. Bungee motor in place and start slowly turning the wheel back the other direction, again watching for air bubbles. If you have the proper fluid in it, by catching the fluid in a container, you can reuse it to fill your fluid container so you really don't use that much. You might do this two or three times but it's the easiest way I've found to get all the air out. When I bought mine, someone had put red dextron in it. I bought a gallon of the mil spec hydraulic fluid and purged it. Starting off by opening both bleeders and using compressed air to blow what I could get out and it still didn't take but a few times to bleed the system.

After looking, that one may not be an option, out of country somewhere. Looks like maybe Ontario Canada and that may be Canadian dollars.