Way2slow

Don't get me wrong, I luv a canoe. I bought my canoe when I was 13 years old, a used 17' Grumman Cargo aluminum canoe with cut off back for motor for $25, and it was my only boat until I was 16, that's why I bought a trailer. I had a 48 Ford I had bought for $10 the canoe stayed on top of it all the time unless I was fishing out of it before I got the trailer. Driving when I was 13 was one of the benefits of being a south GA country boy. Miles and miles of dirt roads and parents that let me use them, I just couldn't get on the highways until I turned 16 and got my license. Then I got me a boat and the canoe became my remote access fishing vessel and no longer needed the trailer.

If it's a lake I can back down to, I don't take the canoe. I fish a number ponds, creeks, small rivers there's not even a road. I have a place I go frog gigging we drag the canoe several hundred yards through the woods to get to and a sucker hole on the Ogeechee river we have to drag to, and then still fight our way up channel about a 1/2 mile. It's up at the head of it, where it's no more than a wide creek channel. The reason I've kept the canoe 55 years, you can't beat it for remote access. When I have the ability haul a boat and trailer to the water, I have jon boats or even a 20ft bass boat I prefer over canoe. Now, if a canoe was my only source of a fishing boat, and was used in waters with ramps and access, then it would probably have a trailer, but that's not how I use mine.

I've had a canoe for about 55 years. After having it a couple of years, I picked up a trailer for it, but almost never used it and eventually converted it to a jon boat trailer. I found the places I used the canoe were usually so hard to get to, getting in and out with the trailer was much more trouble. I use my canoe when going into places that getting something else in there is either not possible or practical.

The pigtail on the boat trailer should reach the flat four pin on your trailer hitch. Two inch is pretty much the standard size ball, unless it's a fairly small trailer, they sometimes use 1 7/8" If you are picking it up a BPS, I'm sure they will have everything you need to get you hooked up and going. Typically, most trailers require approx. a 13" tongue height, check with them and see what the one you are getting recommends (hopefully you will get someone that's knows and doesn't give you the typical BS answer it doesn't matter that much). If your truck is 4WD or has a high rear bumper/hitch you will probably need more than a two inch drop. I have to use a 6" drop on mine. Tongue height is important because it affects the wheel alignment on the trailer and if off, can cause excessive/abnormal tire wear.

I still want to know how the heck they are replacing an O2 sensor that motor doesn't have. Sounds like somebody is getting the royal treatment.

Consider your battery situation in the planning. If you only have room for one, 45-55 is about the max you can run. Also consider where you are going to fish. In the small ponds and lakes, I use a 35lb and its mor than enough. If fishing larger lakes where wind could be a problem or rivers with fast moving water, then you need to look at at least a 55. Is it going to be bow mounted or tiller? Bow mount will probably require additional cable to get from the rear battery to the TM, unless you go 12V and sit the battery up front. You also have to buy or improvise some type of plate to mount a TM On the bow of a Jon. Next is getting a good charger. Cheap chargers kill batteries that are constantly charged on them. What it boils down to in doing your planning, most of the time, the TM IS only about half the cost of installing one.

You can not base how an engine runs when running on a hose. It has to be in the water at its normal depth if it was on the back of a boat sitting in water. The water creates a back pressure and the motor is not going to idle/run properly without that back pressure, so never try to adjust carbs etc while on a hose. Lean means it's getting too much air and not enough gas. Lean at low rpm/idle will make it sneeze and spit back through the carbs. Lean at high rpm can make the piston domes hot enough to melt the centers out, making it go kaboom, and requiring a major rebuild. As for running it, I would be a little Leary about that. I have seen more than one leaking recirc line melt a piston.

The started getting "stuck" is probably just the brushes worn out and not making good contact. Most of the time they are spot welded in so they have to be replaced by a start/alternator repair shop. The hoses you are referring to are probably the recirculation hoses. Gas has a tendency to separate from the air stream and puddle up in certain places in a two stroke motor. The bottom of the boost port is one of those places and they put the hoses there to pull it out. To keep large droplets of gas from getting into the cylinder that will not get properly burned, it is sucked back into the intake manifold where it can get remixed in the air stream again. If it's leaking, it needs to be replaced, it can cause a lean condition on that cylinder. As for replaceable, they are on the OMC/BRP motors, I would assume they are on the mercs. That should just be a nipple on the block at the cylinder and the other end will probably be the recirc valve. This makes it so the fuel will only travel in one direction. DO NOT try blow into the valve, a lot of them can be damaged if you do. They are usually tested with the intake off and dropping alcohol in them.

It will have better hole shot and probably be a little faster if you did. Go with a good stainless prop and you will probably see a very noticeable difference in it.

There is a totally different design concept to a two stroke and a four stroke, a lot less moving parts. Actually the valve train is the main limiting factor in how many rpm a four stroke can turn and sustain. A two stroke does not have a valve train. The two stroke racing guys turn their motors 10,000-11,000+ rpms constantly. The main limiting factor to engine life with a two stroke at high rpm is the rings. A Mercury 2.5 225hp fishing motor turning 6,000 rpm should last over 1,000 hours. That basically same 2.5 300hp factory racing motor turning over 8,000 rpm has a ring life of approx 100 hours. To a degree, the design of a two stroke engines components (some makes run two piece crank shafts that don't do well with high rpm) will limit how much you can safely turn them, but the main limiting factor for many is how it's ported. The 200hp, 3.0 Johnson has a red line of 6,000 rpm. I take that very same engine, go in with a die grinder and rework the ports, change carburetor's, bypass the rev limiter and can turn that same motor 8,000 rpm all day long, and make close to 350hp. However, that much rpm shortens ring life so I usually don't get as aggressive with the porting, keep it down to about 6,500 rpm and make 325hp, and it will run just about as long as the factory stock motor and get way better fuel economy than it did as a stock 200, and it can probably turn that 6,500 rpm 24/7 if you want to run it that way. Notice I have been referring to two strokes. I am dumber than dirt on four stroke outboards, since I've never even physically had my hand on one, so I'm not going to say what's good or bad for them.

Yep, I've fished from a Deep V that's why I would never own one fishing the lakes I fish. I guess your fishing tactics and lakes are different than mine. So, lets not start criticizing what we don't know. I've done a lot of fishing in Texas also, especially on lake Falcon, so I also know a little bit about the waters there. In the spring and fall, I've seen many times the only way you were going to retrieve a lure in a boat that needed a foot of water, was to either get out and walk in the muddy bottom or break it off, and I fish some fairly expensive hard baits that I don't care to break off. I'm talking about having to get in few inches of water. A lot of the banks may be 5-10 feet from you when you are in a foot of water. In the spring a fall, or even night fishing in the summer, if you are not casting into water that shallow, you are passing up a lot of nice fish.

Being in Texas, I'm not sure why you are set on a deep V, unless it's going to be a family boat, like a F&S and you want the smoother ride to keep the wife happy. Probably the reason the dealers don't carry them is because not very many people want to deal with them bass fishing. Spring and Fall, you can be fishing pretty shallow water and I don't care how good you are, you are going to get hung close to the bank from time to time. Deep V's are going to make it more difficult to get into real skinny water close to the bank to retrieve your lure. If near the coast and fishing bays, the deep V will cause you problems there also. Most back bay boats are flat bottoms or tunnel hulls just so they can deal with the shallow water better. Now, if you are not a bass fisherman or don't fish the spring and fall shallow water bass, and don't have to deal with skinny water, and want to keep the wife happy with the ride, the Deep V is probably the way to do.

Mines about that, 22 gallons per hour, I can two hours on 45 gallons You should always prop a motor so it will turn near the max recommended RPM at WOT with your normal load. This gives the best all around performance and economy. Now, that does not mean you have to run it that fast or at that RPM. This is just to minimize the load on the engine and is actually better for the engine. A lot of people seem to think if they put a higher pitch prop on, they will get more speed, but usually find it slows them down. They go below the motors peak hp band so it's straining more and not making full hp. As for running at full throttle, I usually always run my smaller motors WOT most of the time. Anything that runs less less than 50 mph pretty much stays full throttle. Until gas prices got ridiculous and I retired, I pretty much ran my faster boats at WOT. Due to the simple fact it does not take long to cover huge amounts of water in a short time at 75+ mph, I don't need to run that long at WOT, but I have gone 40 miles in a 1/2 hour several times. Engines have power bands they work best in, load one down and it will not have the performance or economy it would have if it was allowed to turn up more. My 98 4WD Chevy pickup is a prime example. I spent over $1,200 on parts rebuilding and modified the crap out of the automatic transmission in it so I could tow heavy loads in overdrive. Well, the first time I hauled my 20' Javelin to Texas, I found out it was a waste of money. Towing it at 70 mph in overdrive, it was getting 11.7 miles per gallon. Coming back I decided to try it in 3rd and not overdrive, my gas mileage increase to 12.8 miles per gallon. So even though I can tow it in overdrive, that extra load on the engine drops the gas mileage down to where it's not worth doing it.

OK, I hope it finally went through. This junk I have for internet hasn't let me do much lately but you should have an 8mb email in your inbox.

Yes, the dual purpose is designed for double duty, it's capable of giving a short burst of high amps to crank the motor while still maintaining a deep cycle capability. I always run dual purpose cranking batteries because of the all the stuff running while the motor is not. I think the concern would using the cranking battery as a TM battery, but in your case, it's not a real problem. With your motor, if the TM drains the battery to the point the starter won't crank it, you have a motor with a pull rope and is easy enough to pull start. Actually, for no more cranking amps than your motor needs, you can use a straight deep cycle TM battery with no problems. It's when you get into the big V-6s and especially the DFI motors that really need the big cranking amp numbers that trying to do that would get you in trouble.

If you want it for possible rough water, the deeper the V the better, but I would go with a fiberglass. I don't have much experience with tin boats, but I've never been in one that will begin to ride as good as a deep V glass boat when the water starts getting white caps on it.

It's looks like a hydraulic valve of some sort, to what, I don't have a clue. It's no part of a boat, motor, steering helm, or hydraulic lift I've had any dealings with. It looks too large for anything involved with your average outboard or bass boat. I have to assume with that thick of a rubber seal under it, that particular one does not handle a large amount of pressure Best place to find O-rings and seals is a hydraulic repair shop. Most keep a huge assortment of them.

Yea! Anytime a lean is involved and you are not walking out with a title in hand, then add being out of state and no telling how far to travel, there is always the potential of having something you never get the title for. It being on consignment, the dealer is usually not responsible for the sale, so if things go south with the title, he's probably just going to tell you to talk to the seller. I know people make deals all the time through dealers with leans on stuff because they can be held accountable, but through individuals, it they just take the money and run, then the title company still owns the boat you just paid the individual for. I've bought things from individuals with titles but I go with them to the title holder, pay off the loan myself and walk out with the title or get all the info, send the title company the money to pay it off myself. I would have a hard time giving and individual a large sum of money, and trust them to pay it off and send me the title. Call me an ornery old fart, but when it comes to my hard earned money, I don't like taking chances on just giving it away, and after 68 years, I've pretty well learned to trust no one when it comes to money. With the way many boats are financed today, it's a good chance they owe more than it's worth and they plan to pay the difference, but once they get your money, they can't come up with the difference.

With your lack of knowledge and trying to fix it yourself, you are going to have to provide pictures of things you ask about. The descriptions you give leave a whole lot to be desired. Trying to help you is not a problem, but my crystal ball is in the shop for repair, so I have to depend on knowing what you are looking at.

That's only last a short time, get a new one before you are down again from it.

That's the fuel pump and the blue piece is the filter cover. The center screw removes it and there is a fine mesh screen under it. It's very common for them to crack from over tightening. Get you a new one and the gasket. If bad enough, it will start sucking air and won't run.

You will have to pm me your email. There is too much to post on here Yes, you are completely changing the way the water flows through the motor. My friend that developed this mod gave it to OMC back in 1995 but it was not until the 3.3 blocks went into production they incorporated it. He was a racer and factory back by OMC and they constantly came to him for inputs on their motors.

If you ever have the head off, it's very easy to check for the cooling mod. I can send you pics of what to look for. Not too sure how comfortable you are with working on these things but popping a head off is a piece cake. I do it all the time and since it's not that old, I reuse the head gasket three or four times. Provided someone idiot didn't stick some kind of sealant on it.

I would start with 5 1/2 turns. At your elevation, that's should be pretty dang close, probably won't have to touch them again. However, sinc is critical, so get all six where the butterflies fully close and all start to open together. It's a pain in the *** but again, very critical. The cooling might be a maybe. A few mechanics and shops know of it, but very few actually know how to do it. They call themselves doing it, but there is one a hidden step that not many know of and it's one of the more critical parts of the mod. The purpose of the mod it to reroute the water though the motor. I normally comes up from the bottom, washes up trough the water jackets and out the TStat at the top. So, you have cold water coming in the bottom and hot water going out the top. The mod brings it in the top, down one side of the cylinders, around the bottom and back up the other side and out the TStats. What happened, some have seen the mod on blocks and they see the hole drilled to let the water come in the top, and all the baffles added to route it and though that was it and the word got out that's how it's done. What they didn't see is where the original factory holes in the bottom drilled, tapped and plugged up inside the exhaust chest. So most end up with half a mod that's not as effective.

Forgot to mention, apparently you have read about the unbalanced cooling these motor have and how #2 is subject to loose a ring locator pin and wipe out the cylinder. Fattening up the idles does nothing for preventing that. A bandaid to help minimize this is to increase the main jet in #2 carb by one size. It should have a #72D so go to a #73D. This problem actually pertains to #2, 4, and 6. It's just #2 runs the hottest (about 50 degrees hotter) of the three so it's usually the first to go, but sometimes #4 goes first. I do a cooling mod on my motors that balances the cooling and eliminates this problem, but this mod has to have the powerhead off and the heads off to do it. You can do random inspections of the cylinder walls on #2 and #4 and if you catch it early, it can save a grenaded cylinder. When the pin starts backing out, it will start making a small scratch mark in the cylinder wall that goes through the middle of the transfer port. The scratch mark soon turns into a gouge and the pin eventually hangs the lip of the transfer port, breaking the sleeve and the piston, and hopefully it's at lower rpm so it doesn't destroy the block. The best way I've found to inspect the cylinder is to solder the wires from a small cell phone charging cord onto a small dash lite that has to wire terminals. Clip one end to ground and the other end on the starter solenoid. With that bulb inside the cylinder, it lights it up like daylight and you can see very easily. I've seen these motors run 1,000 hours with no problem, and I've seen them grenade in less than 300 hours. Why they had to put the pin going through the center of a port is beyond me, but they did. Wisco moved it so it doesn't pass through a port on their replacements.