Way2slow

The storing it with the tanks full is another hand me down from the past. When they used metal tanks, if you did not keep them full, they built up huge amounts of condensation. That's why so many old steel tanks are rusted so badly. This is not a problem with the plastic tanks. Storing them full only means you have a tank full of old gas to start the next season off. Comes along with the old idea of never store a battery sitting on concrete, it will drain the battery, still laugh at the people that still believe that one. Then those that believe you should run you batteries down fully or they will develop a memory. Do that and you get about half life from your battery. That's an old thing from the early lithium style batteries. Lead acid batteries have never developed a memory. That's the way my daddy did it. so that's the way I do it. Still don't mean it's the right way or even the better way, but there is one thing for certain, it's yours and no one can tell you what you can and can't do with your stuff. Except for government, they've gotten pretty good at doing that these days.

Looks like it has been launched it salt water or brackish water. As for paying to replace the axle, I would buy me some Rustoleum and some sand paper, be a hole lot cheaper and you will probably have to do that anyway to the replacement axle.

I've been chasing stipers in Dec and Jan when the line was freezing the water in the front eyelet so bad, you would have to melt it off and keep it clear just to cast. We kept Coleman Heaters in the boat under the consoles so you could sit down and get close in and warm you hands and feet every know and then. Froze our butts off many times but the motor never seemed to mind it.

if it's only 15 years old and an Evinrude, that means its a four stroke. Hate to tell you this, but other than general knowledge of a four stroke, I don't know crap about yours. I would have to say check the basic items. Pull the cover off, if it's electric choke, make sure the solenoid is activating the choke system. If it's manual choke, make sure it is. It's possible you may not even be choking it. Next thing I would do is take a squirt bottle with some gas in it. Take the cover and the air silencer off the carbs. Pump the primer bulb, open the throttle, give each carb a squirt of gas, close the throttle, other than fast idle, and then see how it starts. If it start right up, you will know it's not getting gas. So you can looking at the choke system. Might be dirty carbs if they've never been rebuilt. Might just need a linc and sinc. A manual is needed to do that.. Forgot to mention, do a compression check. Low compression will make a cold motor near impossible to start.

A couple of things, first as mentioned, does the primer bulb pump up so it gets firm? If it's not getting firm, you may have a bad bulb or a needle/seat stuck open. Do you quit pumping it once it does get firm? If not, you could be forcing the needles in the carbs off the seats and letting fuel push by and flooding it. Next it would help to know the year and model of the motor, unless you know if it has a manual or electric chock and have checked to see if it's working.

NO, DO NOT RUN IT OUT. That can do serious damage to your motor is a couple of ways. First, all cylinders do not run out at the same time, so that leaves one of more cylinders running without any lubrication while the motor is still running on the remaining cylinder/s. Second, when you let it run out, no oil is left in the crankcase to lubricate the rotating assembly (crank and rods etc) and leave a protective coating on them for the condensation that WILL get into it while stored, especially if stored where the morning sun shines on it. Pull a cover off and engine after about an hour of morning sun has been on it on a cool/cold morning and you will think someone just washed it down with a water hose. I said don't run it out, but I do pump my tank out by pulling hose of primer bulb and connection an electric fuel pump, and I drain and purge the fuel system on carbureted motors. Fuel injected motors, I still pump the tank, but I run them every month or two in a stock tank or on the hose for about 10 minutes with a mixture of fresh gas and SeaFoam using a gallon gas jug at the primer bulb. You can run the carbureted motors the same as I do the fuel injected, but since I may go long periods of time without using any of my carb motors, it's just easier to purge them. If you do them this way, you will seldom ever have carb or fuel related problems.

If it's short term, Acadamy Sports sells a universal bass boat cover for approx. $100 in a 300 Denier and approx. $140 in a 600 denier. I think the 300 says it's good for three years, but probably be lucky to get one year. I've had the 600 denier they claim was good for five years, it last almost three. I have used one of each in the past and they do work very well for short term though, but you have to buy a separate motor cover if you want it covered. You will also have to improvise some type of a way to hold it up so it will drain off, or it will turn your boat into a pond. I used PVC crosses and T's, and 1/2" PVC conduit to make a bowed frame with center support the length of the boat. That worked very well and cost less than $30.

Welcome, How wide is it? That has as much to do with the stability as the length. I would think a four to six hp motor would be fine. I know people that have run 9.9s on 10x32s. As for the size water, as long as you be smart about it and not try to get out in the middle of mile wide area when the wind is blowing, size lake won't matter. Keep it out of the big water and in the back waters smaller areas you can go for miles is the lake is large. I'm sure there are others on here that can be very specific. I've never tried to use one that small. Several 12' but never a 10.

I guess I should have had my glasses on when I read you first post. My old brain registered it as you having a 150 Fast Strike, so I need to back up and regroup since I see you are running a HPDI. Being a Yama 150 HPDI, and turning 5,800 with a load, you might want to look at trying a 26" Prop. That is a lot of prop for a 150 anything on that size boat, but I would say you are pretty close to the max you want to over rev it. Come winter time when the water and air gets colder, it may also gain a couple hundred more rpm. I'm not familiar enough with the Yamaha's to know how much over rev the fuel injectors will handle before they lean out a cylinder, and that ain't good. RPM wise, it's not bothering the rotating system, but some direct fuel injected motors don't have large enough injectors to compensate for a lot of extra rpms. Just sane through the replies here on these forums, some of the unknowing will always preach you should never turn a motor over the manufactures recommended max, but that usually does not apply except for certain DFI motors, for instance, the old fichts can melt piston at 6,000 rpm because of the injectors, and that's the factories recommended max. After lessons learned from those, the newer e-tecs can turn 10,000 rpm on factory injectors, and that's using factory crank, rods and bearings in them, just changing the porting and flywheel. So, over rev'ng one is not hurting the rotating assembly on most motors, it's just the porting is not designed for it and it's not going to be making much power once you get very far over the peak hp rpm. I always say it's better to over rev a two stroke 200 rpm than load it down 200 rpm below the max recommend rpm.

Don't worry about it turning 5,800, it will probably perform much better all the way around there than if you drop it back to 5,500-5,600 and you are not hurting the motor. Also, is that with just you and a light load, or is that with two people, gas, and full live well. If just you, it's not going to turn that with a load in it. That's why I say start working on your setup. Get your setup dialed in and it might gain a few more rpm, if you get it to 6,000 rpm then look at going to the next size prop. There are tons of people turning those motors at 5,800-6,000. If I remember right, the rev limiter in it comes in at 6,200 rpm, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Rick Howard, I guess you had better never go fishing with me, his max speed is just a little more than my cruising speed. Mine gets another 15 mph faster than his.

NO, you don't want to go to a bigger prop yet. I would start trying to raise the motor about 1/2" at the time. Watch the water pressure in turns and make sure it does not drop below 16 psi. Pay attention to the tach and gps and it the tach rpm increases and the gps speed does not, then drop it back down a 1/4". Also pay attention to the bow lift, if it won't hold the bow up or you are having to trim it up a lot more to get the bow up, drop it back down some. 31/2" is a good starting point, depending how the boat is balanced out, it may need to go a little deeper or it may be able to come up another inch or so. It's all determined the by bow lift and if it will hold it up, the speed and the rpm, and making sure your water pressure does not drop below 16 psi in turns.

Yes, they have a cycle life, but, discharge level affects that cycle life. Run it down 100% every time and it may last 200 cycles, run it down to 80% and it may last 250 cycles, at 50% discharge it may last over 300 cycles and at 75% it may last 400 or more cycles. As for letting one sit, 10 to 12 hours is not a problem, it's when one is left discharged below 80% charge for 20-24 hours or more is where the problem starts, that's when the plates start to sulfate, and as they sulfate, they loose charge/discharge capacity.

With a 12 volt charger, you much charge each battery individually. You do not need to disconnect them, just make sure you connect the respective charger cables to the negative and positive of battery 1 and when its charged, connect them to battery two. I do hope you bought two new batteries and not just one that you are using with an older battery you already had. If you did, it probably won't be very long before the new battery is bad. When connected in series, both batteries need to the same. Same age, same make, same size, approx. the same number of charges on them.

What it takes to start One part fuel to 13 parts air sufficiently compressed. Too much or not enough fuel and it won't start. A hot enough spark at the proper time when fuel/air is compressed at TDC. All you have to do is figure out which one of these conditions are not met. Weak/no spark Spark is not at the proper time of compression stroke. Too much or not enough fuel to meet the 13:1 ratio requirement, provided it is getting air.

Being new and unfamiliar with them, take the prop off and run it a few seconds and see if it still makes that same noise. If it does, see about returning it to where it was purchased, it's a bad motor. You don't have to have it in the water just to run if for several seconds, so you can check it at the house. If it runs nice and smooth with the prop off, make sure the prop was installed correctly. Make sure the shear pin is in that little hole on the prop shaft is even on both sides. Then make sure that recess in the back of the prop fits over the shear pin and the prop is all the way down on it. Put the nut on and try it again with the prop for a few seconds. Make sure the prop is clear of anything it might hit. Other than a low hum, if it's nice and smooth, try it again at the lake. If it does it again, then, take it back to the dealer. Also, another bit of info, when you have it on or near max, don't think for a minute you are going to go cruising the lake for very long. Maybe 1 1/2 hours, and make sure you are not too far from the boat ramp after about an hour, until you have an idea how long it will run. If you have a small volt meter, fully charged it should be approx. 12.8 volts, each 1/10 of a volt drop is approx. 10% battery. 11.8 volts is fully discharge and the motor will be just barely turning at that point, which is hard on the battery, so you should only take it down to about 12.0 volts.

Lithium are the lightest, but very pricey. In a lead acid, the AGM are lighter than flooded cell batteries because of their less water, but they also may not give you the run time, however, in a Kayak, an AGM would be all I would consider, since they don't spill. Best thing you can do is look at the battery you have and decide how it did for run time. If you were running it down when it was a good battery, then you don't want to go smaller, one with less RESERVE MINUTES. If you were coming back and half charge still in the battery, then you can look at a smaller battery. You have to remember, with lead acid batteries, it takes lead to make capacity (run time). The only way you can reduce weight to any degree is to reduce run time which will be one with less lead. Unless you go with another technology, like the lithium.

Yep, my son put a electric TM on a old 12' jon in Texas, with no title. I had to fill out and affidavit that it was an old boat that had been on my farm pond for many years without a motor and I gave it to him. He has also been trying to register a 14' jon he bought from Academy Sports three years ago so he can put a motor on it and never got the original manufacture's paper work. They have it in their computer where he bought and have been almost a year trying to get the paper work, and he still hasn't been able to register it. Kinda hard to fool them on that one since it still looks brand new and has a ID number stamped into it.

Lets make sure I'm understanding your post. When you say after trolling a few hours, is that with the outboard or do you have the motor shut off and using a trolling motor? If you are not using the gas motor, are you leaving it down or trimming it up? If you are trimming it up, the carb bowls could be draining out. There is also an anti-siphon valve at the gas tank, if someone hasn't taken it out and replaced with a standard barb fitting like many do. It is the bard fitting that fuel line to the motor goes on. The anti-siphon has a ball check valve inside that keeps the gas from flowing back into the tank. However, my first guess is if you have some other problem. Take the engine cover off and pump the primer bulb until firm, then continue squeeze it, keeping pressure on the system while you inspect all hoses and fittings for a gas leak. If it's getting air and draining back into the tank, it will be leaking gas while you are holding pressure on the primer bulb. My next check would be, after it has set for a couple of hours to take a couple of the brass plugs out of the bottom to the fuel bowls on the carbs and see if a couple ounces of gas comes out. If it does, then they are not emptying. Then you need to check and make sure the fuel primer solenoid is working.

I keep all important papers stored in the boat at all times, one zip lock has the TP and roll of paper towels, another has other required documents. Since I'm subject to tow with three different vehicles, Other than the title, I keep all documents pertaining to the boat/trailer in each boat. In GA, you can go on line and print as many copies of your license as you want, so l also keep those in the boat.

If you were a few hundred miles east, like maybe the east cost, the motor would be a lot more valuable, but as you well know, there are a bunch of lakes on your side that two strokes are off limits. So, that makes yours a little harder to sell there.

My first guess would be the carbs. Low speed jets are too lean or dirty passages in the carb. I thing those carbs have a small hose that goes across them for the low speed fuel, make sure not of those have come off. If opening the low speed some doesn't help, might want to see about cleaning them

Not sure, just something I've noticed with several boats over the years. My thought is the motor is above that sweet spot and when it's pushing at full power, it's actually pushing the bow down. Let up on the gas just slightly and the bow pops up and you can feel the pad just skipping along the chop like it's just barely touching touching the water.

When bream fishing close to beds or where I don't won't to make noise, I lay a piece of that cheap boat carpet from home depot in the bottom of mine to deaden the sound of weights dropped and movement, but could care less about any kind of bling to make it look "pretty". Don't even leave that carpet in, only use it under those certain circumstances. What do that sayin the antique world, you don't won't to destroy the patina. People actually clear coat faded out and rusty old cars just to preserve that look. A for painting, what little aluminum I have painted, Mostly outboard motors, I've always primed it with (aluminum oxide) (OOPS,) we are priming not grinding, meant to say zinc chromate primer. I think that's about the only way you can get most paints to stay on bare aluminum.

Me being pretty much a gear head, I do it with motors. I can pretty much tell you most of the major brand V-6's and a lot of the older mid size and small motors. The lake and area I fish, the big bass boats and the big motors are by far the most popular and those are the ones you see and hear most of the time.

WHAT did you say?