Way2slow

How many rpm are you turning at full throttle, if near the max recommended, you should be good on the prop. If 400 or so below, go down one prop size. That will help some by getting it up a little quicker. Sounds like your not fully triming the motor in. You could add a SE Sport 300 hydrofoil that will also help a lot. I guess you posted while I was typing. You're doing your trim backwards, trim all the way in to start and start trimming out when it starts laying over.

First off, you can't fill it with it up and put the plug in, it can't hold that much fluid. The fluid coming out was probably coming from the vent. If you filled it with the motor up, you have to let the motor all the way down with the fill plug out and let the excess fluid run back out. Then you raise it back up and put the fill plug in, if you can't put it in with it down.

What you have looks like a power tilt only, probably an aftermarket unit someone added because it doesn't look like the OEM units I've seen. The OEM unit usually has motor siting beside the cylinder that's almost as tall as the cylinder. Tilt only units are not design to work as a trim, and will not hold the motor in a trim position when under power. As for going up and down, do you hear the pump motor running when it does not want to move? You can take it out and see if the motor moves freely without it. If it does, then the problem is in the motor/hydraulics. If it's stiff and still don't want pivot, you may need to take the pivot apart, clean and lube it. If the hydralics is the problem and you don't want to spend the money on fixing it, you can take it out a install the shock system back in there.

Make you the manual release valve is closed. There is usually a hole on one side of the transome mount and uses a screwdriver to turn the release. Clockwise is normally the closed. I don't work on black motors so other than checking the manual release, don't no much more to tell you. Could be a packing blowing by on one of the cylinders, could be a valve stuck, could be he got something out wrong or out of place installing the motor.

Might be time to convert it over to a carb motor but again, that's something you would have to be able to do yourself to come out.

What pitch prop are you running and how old of a motor is it? Is it a flat bottom boat and how wide is it? I would think a good 9.9 would get a small 14' boat on plane unless you really went over board adding the deck. I used a 9.9 on a 14' glass boat with bow TM, battery's, two people, big cooler full of ice and cooler for the fish and it would run faster (on plane) than you could safely run in a few of the rivers I fished. As for the 18, yea, it should have almost twice the power of the 9.9. Being an 18, I guessing it's an 60's - 70's Evinrude Fast Twin, which is actually a 25 with a smaller carb, very strong little motor. If that is the motor, be very sure to check the lower unit. They are bad to get water in them after they get some age on them and I don't think a coule of the parts to fix the leak are still available and the main drive shaft's upper bearing would freeze/rust up quickly when water got into them, ruining the drive shaft. Where the shift rod goes into the LU, there is an O-Ring under a brass sleeve. You have to drill the sleeve out to replace the O-ring and not sure you can get another sleeve now.

Without the software and interface cable, it would be a little on the hard side to trouble shoot. If this was the first time it had been run in a few months, the bad gas may have caused it to melt a piston. Compression check will show that, should be approx 125 pounds and even on all four. If it did melt a piston, it would be wise to send all four injectors off to be cleaned a calibrated, that's over $500. The problem is, you can't reinstall them if you don't have the software and cable to update the ECM. If you do a compression test, open the throttle butterflys and don't use the key, leave it turned off. Spin it over by jumpering the solenoid or connecting a remote starter button. That way there is no spark going to the plug wires. Also, nnly take out one plug at the time or it will make the bendix kick out each time it hits on the cylinder your check. Make sure the battery is fully charge also, it needs to turn 250 rpm for a fair compression reading. The ECM could have died, there are about 50 upgrades that are done on the ECM. A new ECM is very, very expensive and to have your's repaired and upgraded is just very expensive, probably close to $1,000. You also have to be very carefull trouble shooting, it's possible to blow the ECM just by cranking it over without a plug wire on. You can use a timing light to see if the plugs are firing and also on the injector trigger wire to make sure the injectors a firing. What it boils down to, if your not good with outboards and have the software, cable and manual, you are pretty much at the dealers mercy, and they usually don't have much mercy when it comes to the bill.

No one gives "DEALS" on outboard parts. You can find some that sell aftermarket parts at a price less than OEM parts but many of those are inferior parts that I would not use. Granted, some of the aftermarket are made by the same companies that make the OEM parts and just in a different package, some are quality parts and are comparable to OEM parts quality, but the majority are a lot cheaper quality part for only a slightly cheaper price. Even the Chinese have gotten into the outboard parts business. Power packs and electronics parts are showing up 1/2 price of OEM parts. My son thought he was getting a good deal on a Johnson voltage regulator at $30 less than my wholesale cost. My parts supplier was out so my son found one on line, came in marked "Made in China" and it lasted four months. If you find a cheap part, you pretty much get what you pay for.

NO. It's very common for them to take several seconds for water to start coming out the pee tube, they have to fill the block with water before it comes out the tube. The big V-4 and V-6 looper blocks can take a while before the water starts coming out of them. Running one dry is what kills the pump, the friction of that rubber impeller spinning at 800 - 6000 rpm on dry metal generates a lot of heat very fast. If your lower unit is fully in the water and the inlets are not blocked, the pump is not running dry, it just take a few seconds to pump enough water. As mentioned though, if in doubt and it's been a coule of years, change the darn thing. It's just not that expensive. $35 for an impeller or less than $100 for the whole pump kit if you do it yourself and usually less than $200 to have a shop it. When I buy a used motor, I always replace the whole pump first thing, then in a couple of years I just replace the impeller, (provided things still look good and not meet the fait of Glenn's). A couple of years after the impeller change I replace the whole pump again, alternating between impellers and whole pumps so every four/five years the complete pump is replaced.

Ain't it a little late to be asking what kind of motor they are, after you have already bought one?? Years back Brunswick Marine (owns Mercury) bought the failing Chrysler brand outboards, painted them black and renamed them "Force by Mercury" so they could have a cheap line of outboard motors and put the "by Mercury" on them so people would think they were getting a lower priced Mercury. That ain't the case, for a long time the only thing they changed after buying Chrsler was the color, from white to black, and the name. They spent very little on engineering changes the whole production life. Like most anything you buy that's at the bottom of the food chain, it's there for a reason, kinda like buying this made in China stuff, it's just as apt to be junk as it is a usable product and not designed for hard/heavy use. They were a low tech motor and did not make no where near the same torgue as Mercury, Johnson or any of the major brand motors. This was also the reason they died in 1999 or 2000, there was no way they could be made to meet EPA standards without redesigning the whole motor, which would have put the cost up to that of a Mercury. A lot of people have run the motors and thought they were great motors, a lot have run them and they turned out to be the most expensive thing they ever owned. For the occassional weekend user that puts very few hours on their motors, they did OK. Run them hard a lot, and they can get very expensive.

I agree, junk the steel tank. Power Pack can cause your problem but I would be more prone to believe your problem is in the fuel delivery system. That's a classic sympthom of a bad fuel pump. Try squeezing the primer bulb the next time it does this. If you can keep squeezing the bulb and it picks up and runs, good chance the pump is gone. A stick needle in the carb can cause it also but that's not a common as the pump.

I've preached that for years, but most people seem to think they will last the life of the motor. Which, I guess that's true, when they go out, they usually take the motor with them. That probably happened when you had the motor trimmed up using the motor to get out of some very shallow water or forgot you had it trimed all the way up in shallow water, started the motor to leave and left it running while you trimed it down. Five - ten seconds is all it takes on a dry pump. I can't help but laugh at all the people you see get to the ramp and crank there motor before they back it into the lake, I guess just to make sure it's going to run.

You don't need a test wheel, yea it makes life simpler but not necessary. Take a partner to the lake with you. Leave the boat straped to the trailer and back into the lake until the anticav plate is about two inches above the water with the anticav plate trimed level with the water. Start motor and let it warm a few minutes an then go WOT watching the tac. If the rpm is below 5,100, pull the boat forward so the anticav plate it just a little higher in the water. If the rpm is above 5,500, back the boat in so the plate is a little deeper in the water. Once you get the rpm range right, have your partner do the gas while you check the timing. A couple of suggestions doing this. Make sure there is plenty of clearance behind the boat, you will be throwing a hellava wall of water. Have the timing light and everything ready. Only hold the throttle wide open a few seconds, just long enough to get a good reading, then back it off, make your timing adjustment and check it again. Also, I would recommend doing this with a spare prop if you have one. This can suck sand and small rocks off the bottom and put small knicks in the leading edge of the prop. While not creating a big problem, this is something you might not want to to do a high dollar stainless prop. Forgot one suggestion, take a nerve pill. Until you've been looking over an outboard screaming at 5,500 rpm, you don't know just how un-nerving it can be.

I have two of these http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_37967____SearchResults on portable jon boat mounts I use in my jons and they actually sit pretty good. I to have back, muscle and joint problems and had some of those seats years ago. After a couple of trips, they went. For my big boats, I bought four thick, plush seats for a Stratos 201. Those sit great but would be a little big and heavy for your applicatlion.

I've got three that I use most, a Stratos 169V with 115 merc that stays at one lake, a Fisher 15' aluminum with a 50 Johnson, and a 20' Javelin with a 225 rude. All three of these have 24V TM's and three batteries in each, front and console mouted LCD sonars and onboard chargers. They are always fish ready. I also have a couple of jons and a 17' canoe. For those I have a 4hp, 9.9hp and 25hp tilller motors and two 12V transome mounted TM's I can stick on for the lake/river I'm going to be going in. For a battery I just ****** one out of one of the other boats when I need one. I used to keep a battery on a maintainer for those but it rarely got used so I finally quit that. When I get ready to go fishing, I don't want to spend hours getting a boat ready, then get to the lake and find I don't have something I need. I even keep pretty good stock of rods/reels and tackle in the Stratos and Javelin so I don't have to haul tackle back and forth.

Steering wheel being loose can be caused by a couple of things. First, make sure the nut holding it on is tight. Pop the center out of wheel and make sure the shaft is turning with the wheel and no free play there. If the wheel was loose, the keyway may be beaten out and giving you too much play. If the wheel is tight and the shaft turns with the wheel, look at the motor and make sure the cable end moves when you rock the wheel back and forth. If it does, find your free play back there and fix it. If the shaft in the helm turns with the wheel but the cable does not move with the rocking of the wheel, your helm is probably worn out. As for the constant hard torque on the wheel. First, you probably don't have the motor trimed up enough. Too much hull drag will creat tons of steering torque. You can try adjusting the trim tab on the bottom of the anti-cav plate. Looking down at it from the back of the motor, turn it counter clockwise. The very rear part of the tab should be more to the starboad side

Do the linc and sinc first and try that. Make sure you have a whole roller on the throttle cam. It should be about 3/8" in diameter and have a clear looking outer shell over a black inner. A lot of times the clear outer shell is gone, leaving just the small black center. This will throw your timing curve way off and cause a bog. Carb butterfly's out of sinc will also cause it. If all that's good, pull the carbs and clean them. Then you get to go back through all the sinc again.

Shouldn't the dyno make it stall, most likely NO it will not. Most of the so called "Dyno's" marine dealers have is nothing but a big hydraulic pump that designed to load the motor at max rpm. A few have the Land and Sea unit that uses a water pump but again, it's to briefly load the motor as they bring it up to top rpm, usually about 15 seconds. Both of these will overheat if you run the motor too long on them so they would have a hard time running the motor long enough, under a load to simulate a lake run, then stop, wait and start the motor up at a simular load as coming out of the hole. There are a couple of things that are common to cause your problem. Linc and sinc off. Idle mixture not properly adjusted. Carbs need to be rebuilt because the mid range orifices are partially clogged or the plastic bodies have gotten to distorted so after they get warm they don't give a good seal where the bowl joins. Those motors are also prone to what they refer to as heat soak. When you start to give it throttle, try holding the key in for a few seconds to give it and extra shot of fuel and see how it does.

Depends on if it's a real CRACK or if it's just a stress crack. Stress cracks are on both sides of the transome in most glass boat and don't hurt a thing. Opened up cracks are not suppose to be there though. I first check a transome buy triming the motor up, then stand or have someone stand on the mid section nead the lower unit and bounce up and down while I watch the transome for any movement, there should be NONE, (and I weigh 215 pounds). If there is, the only thing I do after that is get back in my vehicle and leave. The only way to properly fix a transome is to replace it, very expensive to have it done and very difficult to do yourself. All those other "patches" may do nothing but cause you to loose a motor and sink a boat.

Rebuilding the carbs is OK. Don't mess with the reeds, there's nothing wrong with them and the only way to get to them is to pull the whole intake off. The reeds in those motors are pretty much bullet proof and in 45+ years I've ever seen a problem with them is when someone has tried to screw with them. Make sure you go through the linc and sinc and understand it very well. It being off will create many kinds of running and idle problems. The butterflys in both carbs have to be fully close at idle and open at the same time when throttle is applied, check them closely. Also check/replace the roller on the throttle cam. It's very common for the outer section to be torn up or missing on older motors. For the VRO part, at that age, it's not very reliable, either the fuel pump side will quite or, ever worse, the VRO side will quit and cost you a motor. The newer 99 and later models added and extra wire and are a whole lot more reliable, they just cost almost $400. You can buy a fuel pump only that mounts and looks the same but does not have the VRO for less than $200 and you have to premix your fuel. Or, for approx $100 you can convert over to and electric pump and make life real simple. No more pumping primer bulbs and starts like a DFI motor. I don't know much but about them but If you need any other info I will try to help.

1st off, a 2008 Yammy should still be under warrenty, you will just be without a boat while it sits in line at the shop. 2nd, I don't know squat about the Yamaha motors but I would think they put an up tilt limit switch on it so it shuts the pump motor off when it gets to the top, just to keep you from being able to running it against the pressure relief valve. 3rd, just to be on the safe side if you take it to the dealer, I wouldn't mention the button deal. You might try the opening the manual release and get it back down to on the towing mounts and see if it works then. It could have the upper limit and it has it shut down for some reason. Your next option would be to do like I said and apply power directly to the motor wires. Two wire pumps are easy, three wire pumps you have to know which is the common. Red, Green, Blue is a common color code, red would be the common, green would be the down and blue would be the up.

What kind of motor? Does the trim motor have a quick disconnect somewhere in the cable going to it. Is it a two wire or a three wire motor. A three wire has a common, an up, and a down. You can hook a one lead of a battery to the commom and the touch the others with a wire from the other battery terminal and the motor should trim up with one and down with the other. If it's a two wire, just connect postive to one and negative to the other wire, motor should start to trim, reverse the wires and the motor should trim in the oposite direction. If it does not run going directly into it like that, you FRIED :'( the motor.

If the bulb does not pump up firm, one of two things are happening. The fuel is bypassing into the motor, which could be it's pushing a needle off the seats in a carb/s, the manual primer leaver is not fully sealing off or blowing by the diaphram in the fuel pump and going into the pulse hose. It's not uncommon to push the needles off the seats when squizzing too hard on the primer bulb. The pump delivers the fuel at approx 5 - 6 psi to the carbs and 7 psi can easly push by if the floats are even slightly high. You can squiz a whole lot more than that with the bulb. So, while the motor runs great, it's possilbe to not get a firm bulb. It could also just be one of the check valves in the bulb. If the one in front doesn't hold, it doesn't let the bulb completel fill up. If the one in the back doesn't hold, it lets fuel go back into the tank. Either of these will cause a mushey bulb.

Depends on how heavy the metal is in your jon. Heavy guage could stand a 25 if you add a center brace. I ran my 25 tiller merc on a Lowe 1432 but I also added transome brace in the center of the transome. If I remember right, the boat was only rated for a 15. Changing for tiller to remote control or visa versa depends on the motor but either way it's usually not economically pratical. If it's an older motor and you can find a junker you can buy cheap that has all the parts you need is about the only way it's pratical. Another problem is a lot of tiller motors will come without a charging system unless (unless it's electric start and order with it).

On most motors the water coming out of the pisser serves two purposes. One is to give you a visual indication that water is circulating, the other is to bleed off any air that might be traped in the top of the block. Air pockets can turn to steam, creating all kinds of cooling problems. Since the exhaust is water cooled and that water passes over the exhaust, plus the thermostats are trying to regulate the water temp around 130+ degrees, it's GOING to get pretty dang warm if you let it run very long. If it stays cold or barely warm, you had better check your thermostats. An infra red thermal sensor will show your head temps close to 140 degrees